Torques And Things...

[Mitch Leland]

Howdy,

I took down my engine to the heads and crankcase for new gas lines, cleaning, etc. It's been a hassle to find the correct torque readings for all of the various parts. I've reviewed the Porsche Technical specifications, Wayne's 101 book, Bentley's, the Pelican Tech Forum and Tech Articles and have gathered some of the information.

This information seems spread out and hard to find for a beginner, does anyone publish a sheet or a booklet with nothing but torque settings? Also easy formulas for converting nm to ft.lbs. mm to inches and back again.

Something that follows the "kiss method", keep it simple stupid...

Thanks,

[DUK]

Get Wayne's engine rebuilding book. He has it layed out nicely on one page.

[Mitch Leland]

DuZi, thanks...

I knew that there must be something out there that summaries the torques. I assume this is for the engine only and not CV joints, wheel lug nut and other non-engine parts...

[RWebb]

This guy makes a great little conversion program:
http://joshmadison.com/software/convert/


Not all fasteners need to be at a precise torque (not that torque wrenches are all that precise anyway).

Fastener companies publish charts of default torques to use based on material type (bolt grade) and fastener size. I just use those if the Tech Spec Book or manuals don't have the torque for something.

Or I wing it.

What particular times are you not finding torque values for?

[Mitch Leland]

RW,

I found all the settings that I needed, but it took a lot of time and searching different publications to come up with the torques. Mainly I was concerned with the intake manifold, heat exchangers, other muffler connections, valve covers, spark plugs... I have a pretty good feel with the tools, but I was trying to be as accurate as possible since this is my first time with the engine down.

I did screw something up while torquing the valve covers, Bentleys called for 8 nm or 6 ft.lbs. I was using a 1/4" drive torque wrench that was only in inches. I multiplied 12 X the 8 nm instead of the 6 lbs. So I backed off the nylox nuts and torqued to the 72 in. In retrospect maybe I should have just left the 96 in or 8 ft.lbs? Did I compress the gasket, then backed it off so now my seal isn't as good? I'm using the silicone beaded gasket on the bottom with the graphite (not sure what it is) coated gasket on the top.

Here's a pix of my engine...

[RWebb]

I wouldn't worry about the valved covers - if they leak then deal with that. If not, drive away...

You can dig up torque values and write them down on the assembly diagrams that Bentley gives, or put them in a table in MS Word for your next rebuild.

[hcoles]

I put the torque values from the Wayne book and standard values on an excel doc and printed out and put up in the garage... also I made a sheet with newton meters, ft-lbs, in-lbs to do quick conversions

[Mitch Leland]

Thanks boys for the info... I've been accumulating the torque values as I go, but it seems like no one has put out a complete inventory of torques for both the engine and running gear. So we're all duplicating the same effort.

I guess that's all part of the education and recreation...

[hcoles]

I found, and others please correct me, that there were not a lot of torque values in the Wayne book that were different or much different than the standards for torque as a function of size and pitch. So a helpful list, probably a short list, would be for the exceptions. I would exclude important situations e.g. rods.

[Mitch Leland]

There are several conversion tables on the internet. I Googled, "torque conversion tables"... Here's a link that automatically gives you the conversion without any, do I multiply or divide to get the answer:

http://www.pitt.edu/~rsup/touqueconv.html

[Gunter]

Wayne's book is very good.
Two important things about torque: A calibrated torque wrench AND lubricate not just the threads but also the mating surfaces of the nut/bolt/washer to get the right "Wet" torque.
Thread locker counts for wet.
Also, pre-torque important items like the heads cross-wise first, then the final torque again cross-wise.