Oil Sump Plate/Screen Cleaning

Planning to remove my oil sump plate and screen soon to replace the leaking gasket on the plate and clean the screen out.

Any recommendations on solvents to use and or methods of cleaning?

Also, do any of you know if the plate has 2 or 1 gasket? Automotion lists "2 required," for their updated plate, but I don't see where the second one goes on my stock plate.

Any other recommendations on R & R are welcome!

Thanks.

Nick.

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Nick Shumaker
1982 911SC Coupe

Nick,

I believe the screen lip sandwiches between the gaskets. Keeps it from leaking. The face plate then goes against the outside gasket.

Steve

Nick,

Unless your gaskets are the aftermarket Brazilian shirt-stiffener (no joke ... there really are some gasket sets out there that use recycled cardboard) cardboard variety, there is only about a 1-in-100 chance that just replacing the gaskets will fix the leak. Most leaks from the drain plate are caused by 'dented' and distorted drain plates that have been overtightened! You can carefully pound the plate flat again, and file any 'high' spots so that the new gaskets have a reasonable chance of sealing properly, but I prefer to go one step further and braze or solder some hardened oversize washers on the underside of the plate holes, so there will be less of a chance of 'denting' in the future.

I recommend using new Nyloc M6 nuts and new sealing rings, and the best OEM graphited gaskets. I also recommend using an inch-pound calibrated torque wrench set to 84 inch-pounds. And, the studs need to be cleaned with a good degreasing compound such as brake spray cleaner (which also works well on the strainer and plate) prior to installing the new nuts. It is very important that the studs be DRY AND CLEAN, if the self-locking feature of the nuts is expected to work! It is very important not to overtighten those nuts! Stripped studs are not a fun repair on a 911 crankcase!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

Warren and Steve,

Thanks for your replies.

Warren, the plate does not look damaged from any type of impact, but who knows. I'll look at it closely. As always, I will use new nuts and the proper tightening torque.

After my recent rendezvous with broken exhaust studs, I have no desire to go down that road again! It cost me enough to have a drilling jig for the exhaust studs made by a machine shop, dont need to do that again!

Nick.

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Nick Shumaker
1982 911SC Coupe

[This message has been edited by Nickshu (edited 02-26-2001).]

Nick,

Maybe I should have been more clear ... the denting isn't caused by any kind of external oject hitting the plate! The 'dents' are at the eight 6 mm holes for the studs, and are caused by overtightening the retaining nuts! If it has occured, you will see it clearly by putting the straight edge of a machinist's rule between two stud holes on the flange surface where the gasket seats.

It always surprised me that the factory continued to make the plate out of the same thickness metal for almost 20 years ... the damage shows up on most 911 engines within three or four years, and I'm quite sure dealers saw the same damage pattern on many, many cars!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

What warren is saying is that the holes are dimpled.

Steve

Got it. Maybe I'll just get a new plate.

Thanks guys!

Nick.

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Nick Shumaker
1982 911SC Coupe