Cold idle speed?? what should it be?
 

Just out of curiosity, on a day like today (40degrees F/3 Celsius), when you start the car, what do most of your vehicles idle at?

My car runs well and there are no issues, but I'm wondering if I may have a bad AAV? The car starts up at about 1100 RPM in this weather and after about a minute or so, it drops to like 400 rpm.. and then slowly climbs to 1000 (my regular idle speed) as the engine warms up. Is that normal, it seems a little low.

Oh boy, that's not normal, 400 RPM's must shake like crazy until it idles up. I believe the AAV should warm idle at 1200 RPMs then for you settle down to 880 RPMs after about 30-45 seconds

Check for vacumn leaks at the usual 6 culprit points when you start it cold, take a screw drive and tap on the AAV. If it goes normal, you may have faulty AAV.

The other test turn off the car, disconnet the AAV and check the OHMs, 20 center and any outer terminal, 40 OHMs on both out terminals.

You have to consider the two players here, the aav and the wur. The aav starts closing as soon as the element has power, and makes it way to 90% close around the 4 min mark. It sounds like the aav is starting to close, and control pressure at the wur is out of spec.

I had checked the WUR and it's fine. I'll have to check the AAV in the spring.

Ooops, I just realized you said AAV, that should do noting to your idle. I meant the ICV Idle Control Valve

I just had this exact same problem tonight. The tach needle bouced up and down for 7 or 8 times then stay stable. Turned off and started the car again, everything was normal, since the engine was normal already before I switched it off.
Reading all the replies above, I have no idea what is what since I don't know what the AAV and WUR are? Can someone PLEASE show me some pics if available on hands?
Thanks a mil.

AAV = Ambient Air Valve, a black flat bowler's hat thing about 2" in diameter located near the passenger side lid hinge held on by a brass bracket and 3 hoses, one coming off of the oil fill cap.

ICV = Idle Control Valve, the Brass Component directly on the center of the engine with a black label BOSCH and 2 hoses and going top to bottom and off to the left a electrical connection.

WUR, sorry no idea what that is

Thanks Draco,
Let me make sure....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1196149817.jpg

You got 2 out 3 Brother,

Do you see that hose that looks like it is coming up behind the oil cap, as you follow it, you will see the AAV with two other hoses and a bracket. AAV aka Kazoo/the hidden Mosse Sound Effects, an optional feature of our P-cars :D

Yeah what the heck is a WUR, some kind of Relay I suspect.

BTW, you got a clean engine, nice job!

I couldn't take the suspense but could not find what the heck is a WUR, but I found a pic off of another thread where it would start leading into:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17...Picture033.jpg

WUR = Warm Up Regulator? Of all place it was in the Audi Thread, go figure. Now where the heck is it in the P-car?

Draco,
Thank you. I will check into those when I have time this weekends. I’m sometimes a little meticulous about engine look. There is no need to be like a show car or fancy looking but I like clean engine look, but not lately, too busy.
Oh, I did a little engine wash over the weekends. Do you think that might be the cause? Actually I do that all the time, any car, and have not had any problem so far. Hopefully, not this time too.

Regarding the new pic, somewhere near the AAV then.

Again, thanks.

Hey Rnln,

I have a bit of OCD when it comes to my engine too.

I would try not to wash the engine on our P-Cars, very sensitive. You may have caused an accidental short on the O2 Sensor or ICV. The O2 Sensor is electrical component and the ICv is both Mechanical and Electrical. Luckily the AAV is all Mechanical Air Pressure.

Does your symptoms occur more often after a wash?

The mysterious WUR looks like it would be on the Driver Side from the pic but hard to tell. Since it is a Regulator it must be an electrical component near the Throttle Housing.

This is Killing me not knowing.

it happened several times in the past years only when the weather is very hot, and it happened only slightly. Someone recommended it should has something to do with the CO2 level. I didn't bring the car to check the CO2 yet because since then it have not happened again.
On washing the engine, I did it many times on this car alone and nothing happen after each wash. Last night, it happened again and this is the first time it did it so bad, jumping distant was far and engine shake strong for closed to 10 times. After that, eveything was back to normal.
I am checking the "Warm Up Regulator" with Pelicanparts image.

You know what Rnln,

After reading a dozen threads, it looks like the WUR is on pre "84's only ours would be the ICV.

Hope someone chimes in on this?

umm... I see PP is selling the WUR for 84-89. They all look the same.
Anyway, first/easiest thing for me is to take the ICV off and spray some WD40 or brake cleaner.
haha, I just read the other thread of yours about WD40.
Thanks.

No WD40, use Ether or Carb Cleaner. Gunk sells a silicon based lube. Let me check out PP for that WUR.

I must be going blind or on the forum too long, can't see our years except for 86-89 Turbo WUR's:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...m_1-7-2d54.jpg

I don't recognize this part at all

Please someone test my vision: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search.cgi?please_wait=N&forumid=&threadid=&co mmand=DWsearch&description=warm%20up%20regulator&F ILTER_911M=ON&FILTER_TECH=ON&FILTER_SUPP=ON&FILTER _ACCE=ON&FILTER_CARE=ON&FILTER_STUF=ON&FILTER_PERF =ON&FILTER_MISC=ON&FILTER_GADG=ON&FILTER_TOOL=ON

you are right, sorry. It's only for turbo. That means we don't have it?

Yeap :D

The only thing that resembles the "WUR" on our years is "WUV" Warm Up Valve PEP #930 605 105 EX. Again I believe for the 930's though. Thank Heavens because this part is $900 USD, Doh!!!

Does the AAV can also be clean as the ICV? Thanks god we don't have to have the WUR. THe ICV and AAV is closed to $250.