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Pedal cluster question
I suddenly have very little "push" on my brake pedal. It depresses a short distance before the brakes engage, whereas before, the pedal had a fair amount of travel. The brakes seem to work fine, btw. FWIW, my clutch pedal has been squeaking for a while now whenever its pressed, but also seems to work fine. Could this be a pedal cluster issue?
Thanks for the help. SmileWavy |
What year 911?
Are the pedals returning fully? Squeaking usually means the plastic bushings could use replacement. They have bronze bushings that are a good upgrade. The kits are based on year which is why I asked what year 911. Not sure I can help on the brake issue... Take LOTS of pics so you know where every thing is and how each piece is oriented. |
ghnat - Mine is a '74, and no, it feels like the brake pedal isn't returning fully. I have a rebuilt cluster in my garage with bronze bushings. This, however, isn't work I believe I'll be undertaking on my own.
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FWIW Mine kind of felt like you're describing before I had my brake hoses replaced and system flushed. How old are your hoses?
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Quote:
Thanks. |
rebuilding the cluster is not that bad. I used the opportunity to have the pieces powder coated so they look good. The toughest part is getting the pins out. I had to drill mine out. But new return springs for the brake and clutch might also help out. Replacing some hoses is also a good idea.
Good luck... |
I would put new hoses and fluid in there and see how it goes. If the fluid and lines haven't been done they could be original. What color is the fluid?
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dd74,
I suspect you will find the master cylinder leaking brake fluid onto the pedal assembly. The fluid causes the plastic bushings to swell (hence the squeak and non-returning). This is good as it gives you warning before you run out of fluid. Check the reservoir NOW!. Stick your finger back in the pedal assembly and feel for fluid. If any, get a new master cylinder. I prefer to use the plastic bushings just for this reason. This is the opportunity to replace the flex brake hoses. I prefer the OEM over the aftermarket Teflon lines as they give better ‘feel’ and are less prone to locking up the brakes at the limit. Check your pads and cycle the pistons in the calipers. Lots has been written about this subject. Best, Grady |
I rebuilt my pedal cluster and experienced the exact same pedal return as you describe it.
It works fine and looks far better. I also believe I mitigated any rust from developing underneath the tray. |
Rebuilding the pedal cluster is doable at home. Go ahead. It is a worthy job.
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Yes, a cluster rebuild is easy and yes; replace hoses. My old hoses clinched up and would not allow the pressure to bleed off. I found out when I burned my hand by touching the wheels.
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Fixed the problem - yes, the problem was in the pedal cluster, but nothing traumatic. I pulled back the carpeting, took the aluminum plate off from behind the pedals (I R&R the old wood plates for these), and sprayed a liberal amount of WD-40 in there around the base of the brake pedal's "arm." Went out for a ten or so mile drive. The brake pedal now works just as it should.
Thanks for the suggestions. Special thanks to Grady Clay for his concern about my brake fluid, which is at the appropriate level. SmileWavy |
This thread is timely as I'm getting ready to remove my pedal cluster and send it out to someone to rebuild it as I don't have the time/talent/patience to do it myself...
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Art? What else do you have to do in Michigan in Winter?
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Gary,
Yep! It's snowing now and it's 28 degrees. I have many projects that I've been putting off and the garage is too cold to work in (I'm a baby)! |
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