76 Porche 911

[jarco01]

I'm new to this forum, so bear with me.

I am purchasing a 76 Porsche in the Pittsburgh Pa area. I have had a PPI done by Sewickley Car Store, Sewickley Pa. They seem to have done a very through inspection of the car stating that overall it was in excellent exterior shape but would need approx $3K in mechanical work to bring it up to top shape. I have done research on the mechanicals for this year and all items will be addressed. They are offering a discount on labor and parts if I can leave the car for a few weeks in January. MY QUESTION IS WHETHER ANYONE HAS ANY EXPIERENCE/COMMENTS ABOUT THIS COMPANY. I CAN HAVE WORK DONE THERE OR BRING BACK TO NEW JERSEY AND FIND SOMEONE LOCAL WHO CAN WORK ON THIS YEAR. YOUR THOUGHTS?

[Rrrockhound]

Personally, I wouldn't get $3000 of work done 5 hours from home. You want to be close to the place the work is done in case you have to take it back.

[JHinOH]

Originally Posted by Rrrockhound

Personally, I wouldn't get $3000 of work done 5 hours from home. You want to be close to the place the work is done in case you have to take it back.

That's exactly my thoughts, they may be great but you know you won't be back there if you have a problem. Get in touch with your local PCA club and find the 911 guru's in your area.

- Oh, and I would be interested in what work they are quoting the 3k price for?

[jarco01]

There were several items to bring maintenance up to date to include bad Steering Column Bushings, Cold Start problems, clutch kit/cable, brakes/pads, battery, oil/trans leaks, w/washer, hazard lights, head liner, Pressure Tensioner, Engine Reseal, Pop-off Valve, Front Hood Shocks. Car also approaching 45k service which would be xtra.

[Walter_Middie]

jarco01,

Here's the problem I have with this scenario. You are buying what is probably the most inexpensive 911 (a mid-year), and it most likely won't go up in value very much no matter how long you hang on to it, or how well you maintain it. This car is now 30 years old, and will most likely need work done to it on a regular basis to keep it going. Paying someone else to work on it just doesn't make sense to me. If you are going to pay a mechanic an average of say $200 a month for service, why not put that money toward newer more reliable car (an SC), and have it in the shop less often, and on the road driving it and enjoying it more often. When I see one of these cars go down the road, I know the owner has a lot of blood, sweat, and tears in it. It has to be a labor of love, because they just don't make sense financially as a normal car. The fact is that older cars need more tinkering, and if you don't do the maintenance yourself, you will get to know your mechanic and his new boat, very well.

[RoninLB]

i say the '76 should run till 100k miles with basic maintence and maybe an alternator etc.

Then he should run like hell away from it.


different strokes

[JHinOH]

You make a good point Rex, there should be no doubt that if you choose to pay someone else for all the maintenance on these vintage cars, you will feel the pain. I've tried to do all the work myself on my car and I still get burned over the parts pricing. I would encourage you to tackle some of the things on your list yourself, you're in the right place for help!

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by jarco01

There were several items to bring maintenance up to date to include bad Steering Column Bushings, Cold Start problems, clutch kit/cable, brakes/pads, battery, oil/trans leaks, w/washer, hazard lights, head liner, Pressure Tensioner, Engine Reseal, Pop-off Valve, Front Hood Shocks. Car also approaching 45k service which would be xtra.

Lets See:

Bad Steering Column Bushings - DIY, read this article: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_Steering-bushing/911_steering_bushing.htm. Cost of parts and a few hours of your time

Cold Start problems - Maybe a shop should look at this. Say $300.

clutch kit/cable New Clutch $1,500, if cable only DI read this article http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_clutch_cable/911_clutch_cable.htm

brakes/pads DIY Read this article: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_brake_pads/911_brake_pads.htm cost of parts.

battery Get an Optima and install by self

oil/trans leaks Wait and see how bad. Does he mean you need to tear down engine (this is mega bucks and a deal killer).

w/washer wait a fix later

hazard lights How good are you at electrical troubleshooting?

head liner Wait until later

Pressure Tensioner Wait unless failed

Engine Reseal if needed, this is a deal killer megabucks

Pop-off Valve DIY, read this article http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_pop_off_valve/911_pop_off_valve.htm

Front Hood Shocks get a hockey stick.

Overall, the engine work (megabucks) can easily get north of $10,000 once they tear down. That is enough to make me run away.

[911Rob]

I'd agree, get the work done closer to home if you can.
I'd also agree that you should try to get an 80's version 911 unless you're stuck on the 70's version? I had a 74 with all new parts (motor, suspension, brakes, lights, etc), but it was still a 74 when I went to sell it? FWIW,

Welcome and good luck!

[javadog]

I bought an Audi from these guys many years ago. Their idea of good condition and mine were quite different. I suppose that all things are relative and, if you live in an area where rust-free means you can't see completely through the car yet, then maybe what I bought wasn't so bad.

Anyway, just be aware that cars from that area of the country can be considered nice and that same car would be considered a pile, in someplace like California. Don't assume that because the car is a 1976 model that it will be rust free.

I agree with the others about getting the work done closer to home. I've never had good luck with work done by someone that far away. Been there, done that, so many times I'll never do it again. I'll also never buy another car long distance without first getting on a plane and examining it myself.

Lastly, the car seems to need a lot of work. If they do everything on their list, the money they quoted will not be enough to cover he work suggested. That bothers me. I'll also guarantee that there will be more work to do, once you start digging into it. The problems listed indicate past ownership by someone who didn't take care of the car. You go into the deal thinking that all of the problems are small and inexpensive to fix. Several zillion of them later, you're into the car for way too much money.

Personally, I'd buy another car from a warmer, dryer part of the country.

JR

[livi]

Welcome!

Like others have said, if you are not particularly infatuated with the mid years 74-77, going a few years newer into the SC/Carrera models, will statistically land you a better, more reliable, car.

No offense, you Middie guys! I am talking statistics here.

[berettafan]

a lot of the things on your list would make great DIY projects if you are so inclined. the 'engine reseal' could just be chain covers or something more ominous but is probably not unusual for these cars. i would not bet the bank on being done at $3k though.

how much is the car? can the middie guys offer some comments on 11blade fans, heat exchangers and that sort of thing?

[RoninLB]

i know about a used car dealer that doesn't do much more than make their old porsches look clean and shinny for the amateur 911 buyer. His market is a young guy or girl that's more interested in flash instead of a good car.

He's in LA and sells about 25/month.

[imaircooled]

Cold Start problems - Maybe a shop should look at this. Say $300. - HarryD

Ha....but, I only laugh once because I love my car....so I pay it anyway.

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by imaircooled

Cold Start problems - Maybe a shop should look at this. Say $300. - HarryD

Ha....but, I only laugh once because I love my car....so I pay it anyway.

Hard to say what it may be. I am guessing a part and adjustment. It can also be $3,000+ for some serious work but no matter since they will have the engine out for a reseal anyway. The pooint being that his person will drop some serious coin to get the real issues sorted out.

[Walter_Middie]

Wow – a lot of great advice from several mid year owners, and HarryD added a very good list of the things you can and can’t do. I’d like to start my post over again: Welcome to the board, you have purchased one of my favorite cars. The mid-years rock. Simple to work on and fun to drive. Not the fastest car on the road, but no one has a bigger smile than I do when I drive mine. I hope you’ll post a picture when you get it home.

I see too many new owners that put too much money into their car right away. If you buy a mid-year for about $10,000 (the going rate for a good one), and put $3000 into it, you still have a $10,000 car. If you buy an SC for about $15,000 (again, the going rate for a decent car) and put $3000 into it, you will most likely have a car worth around $17,000 - a much better return on your money (just an example – individual results may vary). With a mid-year, I’d drive it and enjoy it. It won’t be perfect - it’s a 30 year old car after all. It still won’t be perfect if you put a ton of money into it. Like HarryD said, there may be a few items on your list that you can live with while you get to know your new car. The trick is to know what needs to be done, and what can wait. You’ll get good advice from the folks here.

I’d find a mechanic closer to home – and anyone that tells you a 30 year old car needs to come in for its 45K service is blowing smoke up your a$$. Yes these cars need service, but they are way past Porsche’s recommended service intervals.

[jclporsche]

I enjoyed a 76 S for about 13 years, my 1st P car. Learned a lot. bought with 86k mi showing, could have been 186k? Cyl studs started pulling after about 15k mi. I noticed during valve adj (always do my own work, can't afford it otherwise, and it's part of the joy of these cars to me). Anyway, my adventure led to a 'new' 87 3.2 motor which made this car a real GO Cart.
One of the first things to look at - rust or corrosion around the battery. Mine had some cancer there by the time I noticed it, and it was not fun fixing that! Only use dry cell (Optima) in these, well worth the little extra bat $.
Overall it was a great car for me.
Good luck & have fun.

[imaircooled]

I'm agreeing with you totally Harry. $300 or $3000 is about right.

[JP911]

Considering that mid-year cars average between $7-9K, with a few exceptions, I would say that the car failed the PPI. Move on.