Backdating F&R– how hard, how much $??
 

I have had the image in my head of a Martini decaled longhood in Silver/black for enough years to act on it finally (See pic for example). I have been slowly stockpiling many parts but do not have a feel for how hard and how expensive the parts are to change from a short hood to long hood and matching rear end…..

My bodywork experience goes mildly beyond opening a tin of tuna…is this doable for an amateur and how much are the parts..(fenders, long hood with short latch, lights etc)

Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Sam


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1197764921.jpg

Sam,

It would be pretty easy to backdate a shorthood 74+ 911 into that Martini longhood - especially if you start with a SC or Carrera with the stock 9" rear flares.

What you'd need to do:

-Remove stock bumpers including bumper shocks, rear reflector, hood, and front fenders.
-Cut off rear reflector panel (about 15 minutes).
-Order fiberglass front and rear RS bumpers, fiberglass longhood with shorthood latch, and a ducktail.
-Buy a pair of longhood front turn signal assemblies and horn grilles.
-Find a pair of steel longhood front fenders or buy a pair of fiberglass longhood fenders.
-Notch out one small section of the front fenders behind the horn grills to clear the bumper shock bracket on the chassis.
-(To match the pic above) Order a pair of manual aero mirrors. Aero mirrors are a direct swap when replacing stock flag mirrors.

The price of parts depends on where you get them (Rennspeed, Getty, TRE, etc) and if you go with steel or 'glass fenders. If you DIY you should be able to remove all the stock shorthood bodywork and install the longhood bodywork over the course of a weekend. Of course final fitting and paintwork is extra...

Here is the thread on backdating a 911:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=139484&highlight=ultimate+backdat e+thread

Good luck!

To backdate to a long hood expect to spend 15-20K. You have to buy all of the fiberglass parts then you have to repaint the whole car which will run 10-15K on it's own. You will also need to be new weather stripping all around which adds up very fast plus misc stuff you never thought of and there is your 15-20K.

Getty parts:

f fenders 900

hood 650

f bumper 425

r bumper 425

ducktail 429

body gaskets 200

window gaskets (?)

f turn signal housings used 250 (?)

aero mirrors 400

Shipping 500

Roughly $4-5k in body panels at full retail price. Look for discounts and consider other vendors.

Do all the body fitting yourself $0.00.

Glass out repaint $5k on a clean chassis.

Were are you finding a glass out repaint for 5k? the sealer, primer, paint, materials alone are close for 2.5K.

quotes above are about right. be patient and shop for used and local parts and you can save a bunch. things that will make the price go up is if you find any rust that needs repair, new hardware/seals/ materials to make brackets for new pannels, and all of the things that you will want to replace if you are going to have a newly painted car (Might as well do the headliner while the windows are out etc, etc). the fitting is pretty straightforward though rather time consuming. the real trick is finding a good paint shop that will let you do the prep work. also, really think about the purpose of the car when considering fibreglass. I have spent a month of sundays trying to get frp fenders to look like steel to save a few pounds and bolted up used steel ones in 30 minutes. you'll have a blast though! it is a fantastic way to get to know more about your car and spend some time working on it and making it even more special to you.

"Glass out repaint $5k on a clean chassis."
about the going rate that i found to spray a completely disassembled "ready to go" car if they color sand/ buff but do none of the re-assembly.

My paint guy in Richmond, VA.

I deliver him the car in ready to paint condition, with the glass out and all body panels removed. He sands, primes, paint, and clears and I pick the car back up, then reassemble.

Yep.

Sam said he is a body work noob and you guys expect him to deliver a car to a painter 100% ready to go?

Just had my 71E glass out painted. Delivered to the painter with everything out, but with trunk, hood, fenders still on. Including media blasting I paid almost $8K. Fantastic results, but quite a bit more than $5K.

2.5k for materials and paint is very high...usually will be about half of that. Paint job prices are all over the place when you consider what state you're in and what type of quality you're looking for but the material costs are what they are.

Yea, sounds real high to me. I think you guys are either getting taken with mark-ups or buying some really nice paint. For a couple of data points: I painted an old Bronco using the economy grade of Martin Senior (sp?) paint, BC/CC with 2K primer for $300 in materials. I work for a company that makes moldings and appliqués for the OEMS and we paint them. OE caliber paint for Mercedes and BMW is $75 a gallon, a little less for non-metallic base coats. Times two of course for a BC/CC, and add distributor mark-up etc. But $2.5k is a lot of money... a gallon of paint goes a LONG way reduced.

The real money is in prep work and the after paint work if you want it to look like glass. They may be hiding some of the labor cost in the material prices to make it seem a little more reasonable.

Back to the main subject, how often do old panels pop up, hoods, fenders, etc? Anyone ever extended a set of short hood fenders to mate up to a long hood bumper? Can it even be done? With the horn and light openings, how much different are the short hood fenders?

Look on the first page there is a topic with pictures about this.

I'd have said 10k off the top of my head also. In other words, not cheap.

You might also get away with only painting where there are parting lines (rubber or air gaps) between the body and the new panels. Depends on condition of existing paint & ability of painter to match. For a metallic like silver - this is much less likely to be acceptable.

You might also think about doing the front first and then the rear later on -- esp. if you paint it in 'pieces.'

You get what you pay for.