Clutch shuddering

I replaced the clutch, flywheel and throw out bearing in my '86 about three months ago. When engaging from a standing start on close to flat ground it's fine but when I'm on a slight uphill the cars shudders and shakes until the clutch is fully released. Is this caused by a worn helper spring or what?

This is usually caused by insufficient pressure on the Bowden Tube. The hard tube encasing the rearward part of the cable shoudl be pinched so hard against the fire wall that it bows upward and stays away from the throttle linkage.

I have a related question. I had a little shuddering - actually it was a LOT of shuddering once trying to exit quickly from a stop light. So I looked and decided to put more pressure on the Bowden Tube.

Here's the question: increasing pressure on the Bowden Tube reduces the 1mm gap created at the small locking bolt during the adjustment procedure. Does this mean I must adjust the bopwden tube, basically at the front (pedal) clip? Another formn of the question goes like this: If the horseshoe spring is going "over the top" and there is at least SOME gap at the small locking nut under the tranny, is my clutch adjusted fine? That is, am I sure there is no pressure on the TOB, as long as there is a gap at the locking bolt?

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'83 SC

Try tightening up the Bowden tube - if there's *any* play at all, the cable will "bounce" on the lever, and the car will shudder like this. A general adjustment of the cable can cure it. I ran into this problem when I replaced my cable.

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Mark Szabo
1986 911 Targa 3.2
1987 Escort 5-speed 1.9 RIP
The Porsche Owners Gallery

i hope that you machined the flywheel!no? well that's probably the reason for the shudder!you gotta do it with every clutch job!

I actually installed a new flywheel from Vertex.

oil from mainshaft seal, loose engine to trans nuts, deteriorated eng/trans mounts, pressure plate warpage from uneven tightening, new flywheel warped. if the outside stuff is in order you'll have to pull it again. the bowden tube made all the difference in VW's, but i've never noticed any related problems with 911s. the only adjustment on it is for pedal height.

True, if the clutch cable is routed correctly, each and every time it is replaced, or every time the engine/transaxle is installed back in the car ... it will not cause any problem! However, many of the people on this board are replacing the clutch cable, or the clutch itself, for the first time, and at least two people here, within the last year ... had the cable routed wrong and it WAS CAUSING a shudder problem, only upon takeoff in FIRST GEAR! So, it is worthwhile to check to see if the end of the Bowden Tube is firmly seated against the firewall, and that there is tension pushing it against the forward (firewall) end at all times!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa