Backdate parts questions
 

I'm slowly but surely gathering parts for an SC backdate into a long hood (not an RS, kind of a regular S look with SC rear hips I guess). It makes sense in that my car needs a repaint anyway and my front bumper is gnarly...

I've just received via ebay a set of so-so old fenders (but perfect for my needs)and plan to have the required front bits welded to my good SC fenders, which are in much better shape overall.

I need opinions on 2 things, bumpers and hood... I know I can get a backdate hood from TRE that keeps the trunk lock position of the SC and saves on cutting the front bulkhead, but I don't know the specifics... If you bought one, can you tell me if you have to "glue" the SC truck lock to the FG hood somehow or does it come with a mounting spot pre-threaded and just bolts on?

Also, on the bumper front: I want an S style front bumper/spoiler. I've searched for one in metal unsuccessfully. How would you go about mounting a repro S bumper on an SC ? Do I have to fabricate mounts or do those things come with hardware that makes this conversion simple ? Same with the rear bumper really, I know about the rear PORSCHE reflector strip having to be cut off, but how simple is the mounting of a 73 RS rear bumper on an SC mount points ? Thanks !

Hi
Our hoods are made with the inner liner / frame of the SC- Carrera. So all you do is bolt on the 74-89 hood latch hardware, shim/ fit accordingly, and fasten it to the stock hinges.

One useful modification if to "lengthen" the safety hook: Cut and splice in a piece of flat stock on this hook. Why? so the extra height afforded by the now longer hook allows you to comfortably access it . The extra length and curvature of the long hood can interfere with your hand getting to this hook otherwise

You will need a 73 front bumper to body seal. Out back you will need 3 rear bumper to body seals for a 73. Why 3? 1 left, 1 right, and one of either side to cut for "lengthening" the first two. When you line up the seals with the flare openings, you end up a little short under each brake lamp. The "3rd" seal is cut to fill each side- we place a small piece of cloth rubber hose and sealant in the hollow cavity of the seal ends to effect a better splice. The seals are available from our host in deference to allowing some marketing on my part

Front turn signal assemblies- either from our host or us. Replica units are pretty nice fit and finish and accept the oe or repro lenses just fine. Horn grills- black plastic reproduction

Bumper mounting- you can fashion simple L brackets from aluminum or thin steel sheet. Use the holes from the impact bumper "shocks" that held the saddle U clamps. On the backside of each bumper bond in support bolts using mar glass or SEM panel adhesive. The SEM is available in various work times so the material sets up very fast. Take care to read instructions carefully as the fumes these give off are intense! Use your original rear side extension support tubes to mount to the new RS bumper. you may have to bond in/ rivet small plates if your bumper was not supplied with these.

Rear bumper can use the center triangular shaped panel to body seal, but there is no provision for the rear lid lip seal. Though an important detail (keeps excess exhaust heat out and cooling air in), most conversions omit this seal.

Reflectors? OEM early rear reflectors are pricey, but a nice safety and detail item.

License plate lamps? Go to summit racing and find Lite N Bolts. Stainless light bulb insert "bolts" to hold your plate on and light it up at the same time

Options?
R style front and rear turn signal set ups, stainless fabricated horn grill instead of oem.

have fun

Wow, now that's a complete answer... That for the tips about the rear end...
Ideally I'd prefer a real rear bumper to FG, but I foolishly passed on a real RS rear bumper (which would have fit my SC) from EASY a few years back...cheap too...

I will buy all that stuff from TRE & Pelican, except the fenders which I wanted in metal.... Good to hear about the hood, thank you ! I'm a little concerned with my ability to fabricate the required brackets, I'm more a nuts and bolts type than a parts fabricator, but I'll have to farm out the painting anyway, so fitting the FG parts will be part of that...

Any idea who has the best S front end out there ? I think TRE only makes RS - performance parts seems to have a decent one but it may be identical to the MA shaw and GEtty ? Better yet, anyone got a metal one for sale ? ;-) Wanna trade for a 67 non-S model ? ;-)

Stupid Q: I have not removed the bumpers yet so I don't know what to expect, but is there any way to retain the guts of the stock rear bumper under the FG RS repro to provide a minimum of shock absorbtion for rear end collisions? (not concerned about hitting someone, more concerned about people hitting me)

we have a nice S front 'glass bumper on the shelf- contact us for details

rear bumper impact protection? As they say in jersey "Fugetaboutit!" no room to do anything significant with the early bumper set up

TRE has good stuff. I used his front hood and front fenders as well as the RS style turnsignals for the front and rear....

What's nice about the backdate hood, it will work with the SCs latch...it's a bit of a learning curve to get it open if you keep the safety latch but it's easy once you get used to it.....or simply remove it and use the rubber tie downs. I did that on the rear.

I'm in middle of a backdate right now and want to use the rear lid lip seal. When I was cutting off the rear reflector panel I left the 1/2" or so of metal that the stock SC rear lid lip seal attaches to.

I'll snap off a pic or two. Leaving that piece of metal (along with the SC lid seal) works just fine with an early fiberglass bumper. This would probably work with an OEM metal rear bumper as well.

scott, that would be interesting to see
yes, please post a pic

love this board and its members- always creativity and ideas popping up

subscribed....

Dave,

Here's a pic. I cut off the rear reflector panel but left the lip that the engine lid gasket attaches to. It works great!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1199974004.jpg

nice. it also saves you from having to weld up all of the holes from drilling that panel off in the first place.

Dave,

Here's another pic:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1204558380.jpg

scott
that is a clever and effective solution. Way to go!

Ok Dave, now back to your desk and ship me my hood and parts ;-)
Actually, I'm gonna have to call you again since I have not heard from my bumper source !

Another idea
 

I don't mean to offer another "out" for the front hood becuz I know Dave and TRE and they're very good people. My point is this: you don't need the locking mech for a backdate if you use the the RS/RSR rubber holddowns front and back. I've run my 88' Carrera backdate/3.6 at well over 130MPH ( on the track of course) many times and the locking hardware is more weight.

I am currently backdating a 76' 930 with ST front fenders and RSR ( early) valence with a fiberglass hood. I will post these soon.

Good luck with the project ;)

Curtis, I've thought of it but I am not doing an RS, more like an S with a wider butt. So those holddowns would look a little out of place... I did not realize there was a delay for those hoods...

It's not a huge deal, but I've waited 3+ years to have the funds for this project, so now I am a little impatient, as you can imagine!

Greg
Your hood was confirmed this morning at our molders. Going out this friday with the rest of the goodies
Thanks!
;)

Great !!! I found an S bumper in the meantime, so now all I need is a rear RS bumper in FG that actually fits...

Rather than replacing front fenders for a backdate, has anyone used the add-on lightboxes that fit on the bottom of 74-89 stock fenders? Seems like a quicker and more cost effective method that either sourcing difficult-to-find used OEM steel or trying to make fiberglass parts fit correctly.

Do the add-on boxes look good? Is there much bodywork needed to make them look "natural?"

If you are talking about the kind that bolt on, IMO they looked like an added piece of metal. Although a cool Idea, not the best looking if you ask me.

I am subscribing as I am still on the fence about FG fenders.

+1 on "Good idea in theory, but rather ugly in reality" as you cannot fill the gap because the 2 pieces are not made of the same material, and the filling would crack over time...

I went back and forth on the fenders, FG sure is cheaper and lighter, but to me it takes weight off the wrong end, and I've heard of stones being thrown by the tire on the inside of the fender and damaging the FG easier than metal.

I think the cheapest way is to reuse your good galvanized SC fenders and weld in the front clip of a bad longhood fender, if you can find (or are) a good welder. Instead, I went with the repair of a complete set of slightly rusty long hood fenders and it's not economical and very time consuming that way. But on the flip side I'm keeping all the parts to return my SC to its stock state if I want to...