73T - Bilstein Strut Rebuild

[Highfield]

I finally got round to 'starting' on my front bilstein strut / insert refurb - spurred on by Hot66 on DDK and his Boge / Bilstein write-up.

I acquired these as part of a complete front suspension, the A-Arms of which have gone to Bert for his Targa rebuild project, and the alloy crossmember of which will be put on to my 73T.

My plan is to strip, repaint, revalve and assemble ready for installation.

Paul at Tuthills has advised on the 'custom' revalve, in line with my needs for a fast road setup, capable of real world use over 'B' roads as well as taking in the occasional Track Day. We settled on what I will refer to as Tarmac Rally specs.

Here is the start point, complete with years of dirt accumalation etc.



The strip down was somewhat of a challenge, given my poorly equipped garage and the need to securely retain the camber plate whilst attempting to remove the top retaining nut. A rather Heath Robinson affair involving a workbench and green washing line eventually secured the camber plate whilst the nut was removed.



I will keep hold of the camber plate and nut etc. until I can choose the better of the two from it and the original on the car when that is removed.

Next came the removal of the pin that retains the insert in the strut housing. This involved an amount of WD40 / PlusGas and then a large punch and big hammer - job done but the pins will be replaced.

Question 1 - where do I get new pins from ?

The inserts can then be pulled out, leaving behind what appears to be two bands of white grease inside the housing. The insert rubbers had white grease residue on them also - apology for the awful photo.





Question 2 - should this grease be here, and do I need to renew any internal seals or grease ?

I have packed the inserts and rubbers in newspaper and will get them over to Tuthills for revalving.

The strut body was then given a thorough scrub and is ready for painting.



Question 3 - can they be powder coated (along with the dust covers), as the heating / baking may affect the internal rubber seals and grease etc. If not, should they be simply sprayed - I say simply, which means not by me :-)

Question 4 - they are date stamped as August 1981, so from an SC with 3.5" brake caliper mounting hole distance. I assume these are a straight bolt on to my 73T, but will I need a different hub or anything to match them ?

I will reassemble and post final picture here when done.

[75blkcarrera]

Highfield, Took mine out last week for install of front fender cooler and associated pluming. Took the struts off and going to put in new shocks. In the down time I blasted everything and powder coated everything. Also putting in new B-joints and t-rod ends. Remember with the powder coating. Prep.CLEAN CLEAN etc.

[Highfield]

I could ship them out to be powder coated, but noted on here that a number of you have used John Deere Enamel which is a very close match.

This is also an option I am exploring.

Ian

[75blkcarrera]

Highfield, A provider of powders and coatings I use is Caswell coatings and they have a great array of choices for colors. Go to
www.caswellcoatings.com
and make a choice. Have a good time. JC

[cgarr]

Replacing the bushings or are they ok?

Originally Posted by Highfield

I could ship them out to be powder coated, but noted on here that a number of you have used John Deere Enamel which is a very close match.

This is also an option I am exploring.

Ian

+1 on the John Deere. Did the rears after I had them revalved.

[Highfield]

Joe - did you use spray or brush paint ? What preparation did you do re: primer etc.

Yes, I will be putting in all new bushings and tie-rods.

Ian

[MJHanna]

I just cleaned mine and rattle can spray. You need to check your brake spacing on your existing brakes. I think they are 3 in spacing vs these struts with 3.5

Degreased really well, sanded, edged primer, then used a rattle can. Not perfect but good enough. BTW, it will look good for about a week then it will start to pick up grease and other things from the road.
Make sure that you powder coat the rest of the front. I sent mine out and got it sand blasted cheaply then sent it off to the powder coaters. Looked great and much stronger than a rattle can especially with the road chips.

[cgarr]

Its always good to replace the bushings, we are using all Permaglide Liners now, also going with 50mm long in place of the 40mm stock for added support, As you can see in the photo once they get into the bronze you start to get a lot of scoring on the strut. Our track car we use two liners in the top, a 50mm and 25mm for even more support.. A new top seal too I hope?

[Highfield]

Craig

Sorry to be thick, but what part is that photo of ?

I am replacing all rubber bushings at the front including those on / under the camber plate - if it is rubber, it will be changed.

Are those liners on the inside of the strut body - I can see rubber inside the strut body (see my photo withe the white grease) but not sure if it is replaceable and where from etc.

Cheers for the help / guidance.

Ian

[Highfield]

Craig

Sorry to be thick, but what part is that photo of ?

I am replacing all rubber bushings at the front including those on / under the camber plate - if it is rubber, it will be changed.

Are those liners on the inside of the strut body - I can see rubber inside the strut body (see my photo withe the white grease) but not sure if it is replaceable and where from etc.

Cheers for the help / guidance.

Ian

[cgarr]

Yes, these are inside the strut body, one at the top and one mid way down, the only rubber should be the top seal and the bumper stop which you show in your photo covered with grease.

[Highfield]

Craig

How do I remove them, and where do I get replacements from ?

Do I then re-grease inside the strut body, and what with ?

Sorry for so many questions.

Ian

[cgarr]

The bushings I use are ordered from Glacier Garlock Bearings. You do not want to use any grease on these Teflon lined bushings, it will quickly use up their life span, a light oil is all that is recommended. The tool to remove the bushings is one that I made. If you are handy with a lathe you can do it. Its just a steel slug that drops in then expands so the bushing can be driven out. I am not sure if you know of this company in the UK but they list the bushing, its E4-B36-473: Bilstein 40mm Insert/Bearing, here is the link: If you want to make a tool to remove, let me know and I can get you some photos..

http://www.motorscope.co.uk/suspension.htm#Bilstein

[Highfield]

Craig

Lathes and me don't mix, but thanks for the link - I will contact them and have a chat.

If the liners / bearings are OK, I assume I can just re-grease ?

Ian

[cgarr]

Ian,

Any luck finding the liners? If you cant get any and still need them we normally stock 50 or so, I could mail you a couple? We only get $50.00 for parts and labor a strut to reline and seal, but shipping can be a killer on a whole strut. The liners themselves are cheap..

[mar2mar]

Hi Craig,

Do you still sell this liners? I need two for my RSR strut.

Thanks
Marlon

[Driven97]

Originally Posted by mar2mar

Hi Craig,

Do you still sell this liners? I need two for my RSR strut.

Thanks
Marlon

Marlon,

I picked up like 10 liners when a bushing failed as it was the same price as 1 with shipping. I'll see if I can dig up the spares, I'll send you two for free if I can find them. I used a rented slide hammer from my FLAPS to pull the old one. Iirc I had trouble installing the new one, but I can't remember my trick to get it in.

[mar2mar]

Wow! Thanks Matt, I really appreciate that. Even if you can't find them thank you again in advance. Marlon