Tips for CV Joint Bolt Removal

[Tom76-930]

Hello,
Hoping there might be some tips/tricks to getting CV bolts to back out without rounding out. I'm "nothing is ever easy" guy, so I'm anticipating the worst. Mine are the six internal wrenching hex bolts on a 76 930. Is a Craftsman bit OK, or do I need a higher end bit? Impact wrench or regular ratchet? If they do round out, how ugly is the fix?

Thanks huge, Tom

[don911]

Some of mine rounded out. I used a vice grip on them with no problem.

[Jim Sims]

Ensure the wrenching feature (hex socket) is completely cleaned out so the bit will fully register. Craftman bits are fine as long as they are in good condition. Apply axial pressure to keep the bit seated while applying the loosening torque.

[Tim K]

Originally Posted by Jim Sims

Ensure the wrenching feature (hex socket) is completely cleaned out so the bit will fully register. Craftman bits are fine as long as they are in good condition. Apply axial pressure to keep the bit seated while applying the loosening torque.

+1

I attach the 12 point tool to a 3' long extension, give it a good couple of raps (brass hammer) to seat it and apply LOTS of axial pressure while slowly breaking it loose with a ratchet. Be very sure to keep it square to the bolt. I suspect that a couple of sharp blows helps break it loose. If you do round them out, it may have been a PO that boogered up the bolt head. +1 on cleaning it out. It'll also give you an idea what you're up against.

Good luck

Tim K

[Tim K]

Oh ya, I've had good luck with vice grips in a pinch.

[Evans, Marv]

+2 on the vice grips while you're trying to loosen them. If you get to where you feel like you're in danger of rounding it, stop & put the vice grips on it & continue on with the hex wrench & vise grips together.

[Tom76-930]

Just wanted to say Thanks! Used this advise and all the bolts came out without a hitch! One more question though: Do folks use gaskets between the boot flange and the CV joint and between the CV joint and the stub axle/tranny flanges? Mine had no gaskets between joints and axle/tranny flanges. It did have gaskets between boot flanges and joints. Thanks again, Tom

[rusnak]

If I understand you right, the gaskets might be in the wrong position. My understanding is that the gaskets keep the grease from being spun out of the joint. I fill my cv boots slightly with grease so that as it heats up and liquifies, there is a pool of grease all the time in the bottom half of the boot and therefore in the joint. I think with no gasket, the grease can leak out of the outboard end of the cv joint, especially when the grease gets really hot and turns to a liquid.

[911 tweaks]

does anyone have or know of the thread or specifically, what are the bullet proof bolts to use in place of the factory ones? Are they a 12 pt. McMaster Carr bolt?
HELP!! I am also doing this now and wish the help from whomever can help me find this info as I stripped 4 in my removal and want tore assemble with these better bolts.
Thanks and sorry if I may side track your post... you may want to also upgrade to these bolts if we can find them now.
Thanks all!
Bob

[MT930]

It seems to help if the female in the hex bolt is clean with no gook. I blast it out with brake clean. Works like a charm. Avoid rounding the out at all costs. Vice grips work well if it happens.

[Joe Bob]

Clean and give the tool a sharp tap to seat it.

[Jim Sims]

Tom, The '74-77 illustrated factory parts catalog shows a gasket (PN 930.332.297.00) of both sides of the CV-joint for a '76 Turbo. This may be confirmed by noting if the sheet metal flange the rubber boot is crimped into lifts off the CV-joint per se. Therefore you are likely to require eight of the gaskets (four per side or axle) if you elect to replace them all.

[Jim Sims]

Bob, The factory (OEM) CV-joint bolts are strength class 12.9 alloy steel. This is the highest strength class in common metric fasteners. One has to get into the exotic "Aerospace" type alloys to do better. If properly installed and tightened (critical) the 12.9 strength class bolts are more than adequate. I believe our host sells the fasteners individually and you can get them from other vendors but often only by the box (typically 25). Mcmaster-Carr may sell them individually or in small quantities. What year and model is your car? What is the size (measure diameter across theads or shank) and length (from under the head to the tip of the bolt threads) of the damaged bolts?

[Tom76-930]

Thanks Jim! I'll order that P/N gasket from pelican in the morning. One question though while your parts manual is hopefully still handy: Are the CV joints for the '76 and '77 930 the same P/N? I've seen joints listed for '77-'84 in some catalogs and '76-'84 in others. Hoping I've got the right ones ('76 same as '77).
Thanks again, Tom

[Jim Sims]

This catalog only lists one CV-joint part number for the Turbo (and Turbo Carrera): 930.332.034.00 Was there a '77 911 turbo sold in the US?

I'll also look in an alternate catalog.

[Jim Sims]

Non-grey market turbos were imported through the '79 model year. Next one was '86.

Per the abridged December 1995 Parts and Technical Reference Catalog the '76 though '79 turbos used the same CV-joint: PN 930.332.034.00

[Tom76-930]

Thanks Jim! That's great news (already have the joints).

[dimeified]

My CV bolts let go just after the throgs neck bridge in ny when i was heading to my house in nj. what a night that was.

[RWebb]

There is a long thread with recale on CV joints. It is well worth the effort to read thru. Be scrupulous about getting all grease out of the threads; use new Schnorr washers, torque and then re-torque after 100 miles. I suspect most failures are due to improper R&R.

BTW -- "It seems to help if the female ... is clean with no gook."
- That has always been been my experience also.

[OldTee]

If it doesn't come the first time, I've had luck by tightening it the smallest amount. Tlhen loosen and out it comes. Apply pressure and don't allow the allen to slip. Use a 6" long allen.