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For those of you with crushed oil lines...
I just wanted to share these pictures with all of you. I just finished these up today and so far they are leak free. This really wasn't a hard project. The sections are made of copper pipes and 45 degree elbows. All of it was brazed together with silver solder. Enjoy.
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Gwyneth *she/her 1995 993 Guards Red 1984 911 Targa with a G50 (RIP) |
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will that withstand the pressure without a catastrophic rupture?
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Milt, Im not sure on the grade of the copper. I have full confidence in these pipes. We took our time properly applying flux on the pipes and got good contact with the solder. At one point we messed up one of the sections and tried to take is apart. We have to rip apart the copper just to separate the joints. This is some strong stuff. Also we built the sections carefully on a vice before we attached them to the car. It might not be the prettiest of fixes, but it is a heck of a lot better than the stupid rubber hoses that I originally used to temporarily patch that section.
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Gwyneth *she/her 1995 993 Guards Red 1984 911 Targa with a G50 (RIP) |
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I have confidence, too. Just making my usual observation and commentary.
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No Band
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"HEY A$$MAN!!!"
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sudo apt-get purge 930
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Keep the salt off of it.
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Mark 1979 930 Euro ***GONE AND DON'T MISS IT AT ALL*** "Worrying about depreciation on your car and keeping mileage down is like not ****ing your girlfriend so her next boyfriend finds her more appealing" --clutch-monkey |
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Copper is impervious to salt thats why they use it all the time in marine aplications.
I did the same thing with my lines but i didnt need quite as many fittings. It came out good and i havnt had any leaks yet since i did it in september
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82 SC , 72 914 |
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Couple questions BeauBlues. Are these (pipe and solder) the stuffs I can get at Home Depot, which people use on hot water pipe at home? And how long have you have these on?
Thanks.
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Fat butt 911, 1987 Last edited by rnln; 01-12-2008 at 02:17 PM.. |
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Air Medal or two
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This is a compliment,, Ingenuity at work..be proud of your self !!
![]() Who needs P tax !!
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D troop 3/5 Air Cav,( Bastard CAV) and 162 Assult Helicopter Co- (Vultures) South of Saigon, U Minh Forest, Delta, and all parts in between |
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This is was made from 3/4" copper pipe and fittings that you can find at any local hardware store. The solder is silver solder. You also want to use flux on every connection. The flux helps the solder fill in all the voids in the joint. I guess you can ask anyone who knows how braze. They could explain in more detail. Oh and I just finished this today. Yes there are a lot of fittings, but let me tell you, each section is rock solid!
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Gwyneth *she/her 1995 993 Guards Red 1984 911 Targa with a G50 (RIP) |
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The factory oil lines are brass. The problem with copper is it work-hardens with vibration. Over time this can lead to cracks.
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Chuck Moreland - elephantracing.com - vonnen.com |
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copper and silicone bronze is high end marine.
and there's plenty of non heavy duty brass around also. It's often plated.
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Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 |
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definitely if it's vibrating imo.
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Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 |
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Listen to what Chuck said. Over time the copper will "work harden" from vibration as he said. All of a sudden there will be a failure in the copper which could lead to very rapid oil loss. You can try to insulate it from vibration, but I think it will never be successful.
But good luck anyway. It is a good project.
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Marv Evans '69 911E |
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Monkey Butt Forespin
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exactly, like putting a flexpipe on an exhaust...
Good luck!
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Fred Hurder Jr For Tech Questions: '84 911 Carrera Cabriolet (US) Weltmeister Chip, Fabspeed Euro Pre-Muffler, M&K 1-in / 1-out Muffler 22 ERP /29 Sander Hollow T-Bars, Bilstein HD Struts / Sport Shocks ERP Poly-Bronze Bearings (A-Arms & Spring Plates), Stock Swaybars Turbo Tie Rods, '92 C2 5-Spoke wheels w/ 1" adapters, Drilled Zimmermans Yes, I drive mine as much as possible. If it's >32° & sunny, I've got the top down.
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I'll be doing something similar this summer - mine are crushed (just under the jack tube) and the $800 for original parts is not supported by my budget. It's either run hot or splice in some copper (I think I can get away with just a 10" section).
Maybe I'll cover the whole mess with some 7/8 or 1" ID rubber oil line & clamps so if it lets go it's not catastrophic. Maybe cover the line with foam pipe insulation & attach with some grommeted cable clamps - if it sits against the body structure, that should dampen most vibration? I think Tim Hancock did a similar fix some time ago just using standard solder - I wonder how it's holding up?
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Why not use Braided Steel Lines? You can buy these actual Braided hoses inexpensively from Summit Racing and the aluminum or steel hose fittings separately and make the actual hoses at home. I do it all the time. Everyone one is now making Braided steel hoses and fittings (Earls \ Holley, Aeroquip, Goodrich, Russel etc) so cost is the lowest it has ever been. You could even go with the cheaper but just as durable Push-Lok rubber hose and run the AN or Metric adapter hose end(s).
The Braided hoses will wear better (designed for this application, much better longevity, flex, high pressure etc etc ) & look better (if that matters, avoid all those fittings \ elbows too). At minimum I would have sleeved those Copper Lines. Yasin
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Ole Skool - wouldn't have it any other way |
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Why didn't the factory think of that !
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Work to Live, don't live to work... |
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