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I have decided to take the plunge and prepare myself for the summer by installing a radiator type oil cooler to replace my "trombone" device. I will also install a 6.5" SPAL fan with a manual switch since I don't want to mess with a fan thermostat.
My questions are: 1) Should I mount the fan to the front of the cooler or the rear? 2) Should I get a pusher or a puller? 3) I figure I need wiring(WHAT GAUGE?), an inline fuse, a toggle switch, and some connectors. Is there anything else I am going to need to wire the fan to operate just manually? I have read the Pelican article about wiring the fan but it is of negligible value to me since I am not relying on a thermostat top turn the fan on. Wiring this fan to operate solely with a switch should be simpler than wiring it to work off a thermostat right? If anyone out there knows how to do this please respond. I am planning on getting the help of an electrician friend of mine but I would like to know what's in store before I begin. Thanks, Rich '83SC |
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When I talked to SPAL, they said they had a kit that plugged into the 911 fuse block. It included a relay "stick on" type thermostat that closed a circuit and enrgized the fan.
As to the fan, the 911 design uses a pusher and mounts it on the side facing the bumper. It blows the air thru the fan towards the tire, assuming that you mount it in the fender well. |
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Rich - - I cannot speak to the wire size. Don't know. But you want a pusher fan mounted on the forward side of the cooler (away from the tire). On the back side (tire side) you should have a stone guard. You might have to move your horns slightly to accomodate the fan.
- I too, have the manual switch. It's works great. As soon as the temps reach 210, I switch it on. - By the way, I added the oil cooler scoop last year (sold by Pelican) - I think it provides a needle's width of noticable cooling difference on the highway. In stop and go traffic, I think it helps with the cooling by providing an air intake for the fan and cooler that is somewhat higher than comimg up under the car, off the hot pavement. It's pretty tight up under the fender, especially with a lowered car. It may be all in my head, but I feel better. ![]() Chuck 83SC |
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I agree with Pat O. You do want a pusher type with a stone guard. For wire I would strongly recommend Marine type tinned copper, with adhesive lined shrink fit connectors to minimize corrosion induced resistance buildup.
Sizing will depend on power needs of the fan but for a less than 3% voltage drop 14 gage wire as discribed above is good for runs of up to about 16 ft with a a 10 amp 12v dc load. You can use a relay for added flexibility. There is probably a spot for all of the connections in your front fuse panel. [This message has been edited by Bill Verburg (edited 04-02-2001).] |
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I am doing this on my '85 Carrera. I already have the radiator type cooler, just no fan.
FYI: I bought the 7.5" SPAL fan. This fan is about 1/4" too wide. I was told to put the fan on a relay, so not to burn out the switch. I am going to make an inside switch use the ground as an activation for the relay which which will power positive voltage to the fan and have a negative ground near the fan mount location. ------------------ Nick Hromyak '85 Carrera |
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Rich,
Do a search under Early_S_Man or oil cooler Warren posted a explaination of how to wire your fan with a manual switch. I have the 7" Spal on my 19 row cooler, I like it !! the 7 has about 100cfm more flow than the 6" and I believe it makes a difference. |
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