Camber increase?

[sbmackie]

Situation: 82 SC, Turbo tie rods, Weltmeister strut brace, lowered, bilstien sports all around, Carrera sways, ER bushings front and rear. 19/26 torsion bars, planning on 21/28 or 22/29 hollows as soon as I can find/afford them.

Can only get about -1 on the front for camber with stock strut setup. Want more.

Weltmeister Camber plates mean I have to buy a new strut brace as well.

Questions:
Will de-cambered ball joints in lieu of camber plates get me -2 on the camber?

Are there any camber plates out there that will fit with my current Cambermeister bar?

Will monoballs stuff up the fit of the current Weltmeister bar, meaning I'll have to buy a bar that will fit whoever's monoballs I buy? (That doesn't sound to good)

Any other options for increasing camber w/out buying more bits?

Thanks
Scott

[Chuck Moreland]

De-cambered ball joints are good for about .7 degrees added camber.

If you haven't already, grind the bolt holes in the chassis to allow your stock camber plates a little more movement. The bolts are the first thing to limit your adjustment range. In combination with the De-cambered ball joints, this should reach your target 2 degrees.

Any monoball/camberplate will cause the welt strut brace to fail. You can however modify the strut brace by cutting the center strut-holding portion away, then it will be okay.

[cgarr]

Here is the G2 setup, trying to keep it as stock as we can but ended up getting -3

[Dixie]

Most important question of all. Why do you want more than -1°? Are you running DEs? Are you running a stock race class?

With the above questions pending, I have to tell you, -1° on a stock 911 is pretty darn good. Have you tried pulling the towers together with the strut bar? That’s a common trick to induce more camber.

[sbmackie]

good question. I run track days, DE's, autocross, and take honey-ko and the little guy out for fun runs and ice cream.

Want to put 225/50's on the front. Word is it won't work without more camber. Nope, haven't tried the "tightening the strut brace" trick yet.

Also want the improvements to track handling.

sbm

[304065]

Change the torsion bars first before you change the alignment.

When you go into a corner the torsion bars are allowing the chassis to roll, making the outside tire roll under with stock settings. Yes, increaing the camber will allow it to be more normal to the surface when cornering, but the right thing is to fix the roll first.

In general you want the minimum negative camber possible for better tire wear and braking performance. For the street, -2 degrees will make the thing feel like a go-kart and will lead to reduced adhesion under street conditions.

[don911]

I went from -1 to -2 using the Wevo Camberking. It's a monoball set up with strut brace. I think you can get it without the strut brace clevis built in to allow you to use the weltmeister if you cut out the center. (which you should do anyway to free the top of the strut)

[911pcars]

WM Cambermeister strut mount with center opening enlarged.



Sherwood

[sbmackie]

To everyone for the input. I will do it all at once (torsion bars, monoballs/balljoints, etc).

One reason to do this is Toyo says to run -2.5 degree with the RA-1. Anybody have any experience with this?
Cheers

Scott

[don911]

I've been running RA1s with -2. I'd like to get a little more but -2 works ok for my car on both street and track. I also have #27 anti roll bars front and rear so my body roll is a little better. Before the new anti rolls, I was eating up the outside front tires even with -2 camber.