Can you free sticky distributor on the engine?

I am convinced my SC 3.0 engine is "floating" its idle around 1800rpm (ONLY when warmed up)because the distributor is a bit sticky. Can anyone tell me how, with CDI, I can clean up the stickiness in the depths of the dist. without pulling it? Is it folly to just douse the unit with WD-40?

And yes, new hoses, AAR/AAV/WUR/Decel are all working just fine. Oil cap off=lower idle, while hand-over-intake also slows out engine.

Thanks VERY MUCH in advance for your replies; you guys are GREAT!

Jdub

Are you talking about the fuel distributor, or the ignition distributor?

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Bill Krause
'79 911SC Euro

Sorry about that! The ignition distributor is what I am referring to. Thanks Bill.

Jw

I don't think doing a cleaning 'in the car' is a very good idea, because any crud you rinse free of the sensor/vacuum plate, or the cetrifugal advance mechanism could run down to the area of the main shaft and inbetween it and its' bushings!

But if you insist on saving the ten minutes it would take to pull it and reinstall & align later, then spray carb cleaner or brake cleanser/degreaser sprayed liberally below the reluctor, so it runs down over weight plate. The proper way to do it it to have the distributor on its' side while you spray and rotate the rotor shaft 'against' the geared shaft, back and forth ... then invert the body so everything runs out down the sides rather than into the bushings. It usually takes more than one spray-wiggle-drain 'cycles' to clean the crud out if is has years of neglect 'under its' belt' or an unknown history!!!
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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

[This message has been edited by Early_S_Man (edited 04-04-2001).]

I would not recommend trying to get into the distributor while it is in the car, too many small parts, and limited movement.

If you have never had a distributor out, it is really easy to pull and re-install. Just don't crank the engine while it is out.

1. Pull the cap, and move it out of the way.

2. Disconnect the vacuum hoses, should be two.

3. Unplug, or disconnect the electrical connections.

4. This step is only needed if you are unsure at this point. Mark the distributor housing at the base where it enters the engine case, next to the hold down stud (you can use a pencil, or even liquid White-Out type correction fluid for this. White-Out works well because it is easy to apply, dries fast, and chips off when done). You also need to make a mark where the rotor is pointing.

Now that the distributor is "Indexed" we will continue.

5. Remove the nut on the hold-down stud.

6. Wiggle the distributor as you pull it out. The rotor will rotate about 20 degrees as you do this. Place a paper towel in the distributor hole. DO NOT CRANK THE ENGINE!!!

7. This is a thread from Plano25 with detailed instructions once the distributor is out.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/Forum3/HTML/007199.html

8. To replace the distributor, (make sure you have the rotor on to know where it points) remove the paper towel and begin to place the distributor back in the hole. As you do this align your marks on the distributor housing with the mark on the engine housing. When all is in except an inch rotate the rotor to the mark it points to, and back up about 20 degrees continue downward and wiggle the rotor if you meet resistance, you have to get the gears to mesh. Once it is back if the rotor is not pointing at its mark, just lift the distributor back out an inch or so make your adjustments and try again.

It really is easier done the said.

Everything else is in reverse order of the removal.

One word about WD-40. It is a good penetrator, but a terrible lubricant, it will evaporate. Liquid Wrench makes a good aerosol lubricant, as do other suppliers, read the label. I don't think WD-40 claims to be a lubricant on their label.

Shoot me an email and I can give you my phone # if you run into anything.

Hope this helps.

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GT911
GordonTaylor@ev1.net
'81 911 SC very very fun
'84 BMW 318i very very economical

[This message has been edited by GT911 (edited 04-04-2001).]

That procedure will work, but is a little intimidating in its length!
Just put the car a TDC for the No. 1 Cyl.
The rotor will be pointing to the mark on the case.
Put a small mark on the timing slot on the distributor so your timing won't be way off. (this is not critical, because its likely somewhere in the middle, and you will want to re-time it anyways to make sure your advance is working and the timing is right).
Unbolt it and pull it off.
Installation is reverse.
(As long as you have the engine at TDC for the No. 1 cylinder, you can't really go wrong).

JDUB,

Do you even know if the ignition distributor is at fault?

Have you checked it so see if the weights are advancing the ignition with RPM timing?

Disconnect vacuum, get timing light. Run engine through RPMs see if the timing mark is moving.

This doesn't mean it is working correctly, however it will rule out that it isn't stuck.

If it is advancing as RPMs increase, than perhaps your vacuum (if so equipped), maybe leaking (read: failed).

Your springs on the centrifugal weights could be weak, causing too much advance at lower RPMs.

(just playing Devil's advocate)
Good luck

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Nick Hromyak
'85 Carrera

Jim T, you are very correct.

The only reason I shy away from telling someone that, is because if they do crank the engine, they feel comfortable putting it back @TDC, but it could be on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke which leaves the distributor 180 degrees off, and of course causes one BIG HEADACH for the novice.

[This message has been edited by GT911 (edited 04-04-2001).]

Shows what I know...

Yes, I am pretty sure that if this little guy is not the culprit, he is certainly a suspect. And yes, I have proposed a hack job of sorts, but now I am thinking twice on this one. I will study the manual(s) and your kind advice and probably pull the dist. to do the operation right.

Again, you guys are GREAT! Thanks so much,
Jw