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I'm interested. Would be even better if you could switch out the silver center dot with a bright LED red light for oil pressure loss (a lot of people use the abandoned clock opening for a big red oil light).
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I've not been able to find any 90 degree sweep VDO EGT gauges - only 270 sweep.
Like this: http://aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/vdoegt.php Or for something completely different... http://aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/aerospace_logic.php Monitors all 6 cylinders. Selector allows you to monitor any specific cylinder. Or sequential step through each cylinder with 5 second delay Or auto select. Selects the hottest cylinder, updated every 1 second. |
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I can wire it that way. Turn around is usuall 2 weeks, depending on how busy I am. Mark CHRISP: I can do that too If anyone is interested, please email me for your quote: I need to know the following: Name, zip code as detailed of a description as possible on what you want I do need a core for whatever project it is, I have been running low on cores for a while email: bigmarkdesign@aol.com |
Outstanding! I'd be interested in a combo gauge to replace my current homemade setup.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1093786420.jpg |
Kevin,
if you send me those gauges with your a core fuel gauge, I can save you $110, so it would be $140 Mark |
Mark,
That would be great to see a substantial savings. But i'm not so fond of the really slow operation of the voltmeter. Is there another voltmeter you use that has more sensitive reading abilities? You'll also see the apparent calibration of my CHT is off. That picture is taken on a stone cold engine. I believe it zeros at 100 when the car is started and begins to warm up. Anything to be concerned about? Only reason I ask is because the first gauge I got was wired (internally) backwards and I had to exchange it for a replacement. Can you also update (with new internals) a 3.2 tach? Just wondering since it appears a bit more elaborate wiring-wise than the older tachs. Thanks, Kevin |
[QUOTE=marks914;3744707]
I then install a VDO voltmeter, which can connect to the clock's original wiring [QUOTE] if i want to keep my clock and add a voltmeter can i just tap into the power source and have a reliable meter or should i set up the correct wiring kit too? |
Don't forget...the clock is "always on".....do you want a voltmeter that's "always on" ( like when the car is PARKED and OFF ?)...or do you want a voltmeter to come on with SWITCHED power ? That should answer the question if you simply use the clocks wiring "as-is".
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This may sound silly, but I live in the foothills of the Rockies @ 4,000 feet & often drive from the prairies (lower) into the Mountains (I imagine up to 7-8,000 ft.)
An Altimeter would be fun. |
wil
thanks. i didnt think about the always on feature. no i dont want that. yes i would like to go with switched power. that is the one guage i really miss about my 914. really like the idea of keeping track how the charging system is going. and how to spot a problem before something more stops me out on the road with a dead car. |
Good point about using the clock wiring. It will have to be connected to a switched source. I guess installation time just went up 30 seconds.
You could just make a jumper with 2 females and a male spade and not have to cut any wires, that is how I make the harness for my quad gauges. I guess I could make one for the gauge and have it available for an additional cost. But if you can't make your own jumper, you don't have any business in the IP anyway. Mark |
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If you find a voltmeter ypou like bettter. let me know, I can see if it will work. the VDO gauge are dampened, but mostly when you turn the car off. A voltmeter will jump from 8 to 16 volts in about 1 second, so I don't really think having anything more sentistve is worth the effort. The CHT is working properly. I have heard of some gauges being mis wired at the factory, definately not madein the USA. My tachs with the modern guts work on any 4, 6, 8 or rotary engine with a single coil or a tach output on an ignition box such as MSD or Mallory. The wiring for the tach should be pretty basic for any car, power, ground and signal. Mark |
Mark,
Lots of quickies: Can we do a 79SC Tach + Volto still for $150? - just got a Tach, it looks like it needs some love (and a Volto) If so, what would be the leadtime? What other options would you suggest, if I'm not going with the Volto - it'd be strictly for the 'cool factor'? Let me know, Jeff Quote:
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It looks like the volt tachs will be $225. I have to install new guts to fit the voltmeter and I have to run a LED behindthe face to relocate the high beam, like the above pic.
I can do a re furbishment for $75 which includes a new face of your choice, refinished trim rings, painted inside of can and a new lwns if needed Mark |
I would buy an AF gauge or combination AF and dc volts to replace the clock.... I don't really need the clock anymore..it does work perfectly still after almost 20 years. Can you make an AF gauge with a large sweep for me? I would supply the wide band signal per posting by Sal Carceller... what dc signal do you need for a wide sweep gauge that I guess would be labeled from say 9AF to 18AF or something like that...whatever people think is resonable.
I figure if the AF is good and the oil temp is staying within reason the engine is not overheating. Of course there could be a cylinder that is running lean... Marks914 mentions a A/F mixture gauge... is there a vdo model of the right size for this already? |
This may be a silly question, but can you add the metal trim knobs to SC gages as part of the refurbishment? I like the look of the early gages better...
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Hcoles-
Find a A/F meter you like, let me know what it is and I will see what I can do. Did you just want a A/F meter in there? I am working up a deal with Norsdog-Viking right now for a 90 degree sweep A/F meter, then I could also fit a voltmeter in there. I am also working out a deal with them for some 10,000 RPM tach guts. V8 ranch- I can swap ot the needles, but I need a set of gauges to take them from. I can usually get junk cores for about $20 each Mark |
I have to admit that I really LIKE my clock (yea I know I am strange.) Marks914, can you add the voltmeter to the gas - oil level gauge to make it a three way gauge? I upgraded my temp / pressure gauge to have numbers for the temp a long time ago. Is there room for a voltmeter gauge to be added into the temp / pressure gauge?
From the photos, all of your tachs seem to be 10,000 RPM with no redline marked out. If I had you add a volt meter to the tach can you reproduce a factory look tach? This is something I will be doing. I just want to keep the clock and get a volt meter that fits on the dash. The question is which instrument should I send to you :) |
From the photos, all of your tachs seem to be 10,000 RPM with no redline marked out. If I had you add a volt meter to the tach can you reproduce a factory look tach?
This is something I will be doing. I just want to keep the clock and get a volt meter that fits on the dash. The question is which instrument should I send to you :)[/QUOTE] I don't know what you mean by they look like 10K tachs, they only go to 8k and they have a variety of redlines available. I would do the tach with the voltmeter. The triple gauge might be possible, there is some R&D to be done there. There are some 904 triple gauge out there to replace the oil press/temp gauge. I am working on a volt tach that pretty much looks like the boost gauge but with a voltmeter instead. I should have one ready next week. Here are some 8K tachs that have been converted to modern guts, mostly for V8 use. http://inlinethumb64.webshots.com/22...500x500Q85.jpg http://inlinethumb29.webshots.com/24...500x500Q85.jpg |
Mark - sent you an email about gauge mods.
Jim |
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