Hydrolic Clutch Without Boosted Breaks
 

Im in the process of converting my 1972 911 to take the G50 trans, my conversion is almost done however im having trouble with the clutch, I cannot see an easy way to use the hydrolic clutch with the early non boosted brake MC. Has anyone done this? If so how did you modify the G50 pedal cluster to take the early MC?

Steve

you could fab up a bracket with a bellcrank and pushrod to operate the release fork that was cable operated.

Can the power brake booster set-up from a later model be adapted to the 72 model?

It can but its quite alot of work to strengthen the bulkhead and more than I want take on at the minute. Johns idea is a possibilty but ideally I want to find a way to run the hydrolic setup.

The MC certainly looks like it wont work in its original position I think there may be enough room to mount it inside side by side with the clutch mc my only worry with doing this is that it would require the mc to be slanted upwards rather than flat im not sure if this would cause any issues with bleeding air out of it.

Steve

Heres the pedal cluster I need to make work,

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1202143919.jpg

Im thinking trying to fab up some bracket to hold the brake MC at the side of the clutch one in line with the brake push rod, can anyone see any issues with this?

Steve

Hi Steve,

When I did my G50 conversion, I made up a bracket that holds the clutch master cylinder and installs into the tunnel, I used the original pedal cluster, no modification is necessary to the cluster, I had a hydraulic shop fab be up a custom braided steel line to go back to the slave cylinder.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1202150311.jpg

Hi Gary

Thats a great idea I presume you mounted it in the large hole in the tunnel right in front of the gear selector? Dont suppose you have any schematics for it or dimensions? If you fancy making another let me know id be more than happy to buy one off you.

Steve

Yes it mounts in the hole in front of the gear shift, the bolts come through the bottom of the car to hold it in place, I lengthened the hole by about 2" to make installation easier.
A buddy of mine did the machine work, unfortunately he has since sold the mill :-(
We modified the original drawings on the fly, so they will be of no use to you.
We used 1/2" x 3" plate steel with a hardened 1/4" pin and bronze bushing in the bell crank and two dowel pins where the end bolts on for extra strength.
Here's a couple of close up pictures of the almost finished product that might help.
Good Luck

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1202156384.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1202156418.jpg

Hi Gary thanks for the extra pics and info, I will go to my local machine shop to see if they can cut the steel for me.

Steve