Funny you mention that. I'm currently going through this myself and I have 3 of the 4 lines free. Heat cycling with PB-blaster and the t-stat in a vise.

Wrench doesn't like the impact of a mallet.

http://members.rennlist.com/jpinkert/brokenwrench.JPG

I now have a new wrench on the way from Pelican.

I had some success today! Since december (as the weather sucks) I've been spending 15 minutes each weekend soaking the connections, torching them a bit, re-soaking, and hitting with a hammer (or punch for the not-so-easy-access one). Thermostat is still in the car.

I got the 2 "easy access" ones (one soft line towards rear, one hard line towards front) to budge a wee using a big monkeywrench, hand pressure, and a 32oz hammer on the wrench. And I got the difficult access one going to the front to budge using a pipe wrench and a breaker bar. Neither tool fits the other rear connection, so I need to invest in a 36mm wrench I guess (or take the other rear line off first). Haven't undone anything yet - too damn cold. Just moved 1/8 turn. Plus, I want some more PB Blaster soaking in first.

I am imagining that the 0 degree temps have helped with my efforts ... Al does have a greater coefficient of thermal expansion than Fe... or it's just coincidence and the continuous soaking, heating and hammering.

So, has anyone ever tried dry ice on the T-stat? Just curious ...

Yeah, Ben.....I think that the cost of the thermostat (at that time, anyway) was about $250-$275. I'm in the middle of a basement remodeling project and I've got my "trophy" tucked away. I'll post some pics when the dust clears.

Steve

Oil Lines/Thermostat..................
 

I removed my oil lines and thermostat a couple of years ago. I discovered that the oil line nuts were stuck just as you described. Thinking that a sharp blow would be more effective than a lot of torque, I made this wrench. It is mild steel, 1/2" thick and was cut out using a hack saw and a dremel.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1202697184.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1202697274.jpg

The mass of the wrench allowed solid blows from a dead blow hammer to successfully break all of the lines loose without damaging the thermostat. Oh, yes, I held the thermostat in the jaws of a 4 foot long cast iron pipe wrench that I just happened to have lying about!

I did my first track event this weekend since replacing my thermostat and crimped oil line and I'm sorry to say it didn't help my temps at all. I have the 28 tube brass cooler and just driving to the track on Friday sent it near 210 and after 20 minutes on track it was approaching 250 at which point I came in. Outside temps were in the 50s and 60s so I can't imagine what it would do on a 90 degree summer day.
After having people here and on Rennlist tell me they run brass coolers on track with cool temps in hot weather I'm starting to think my gauge could be reading high or my oil temp sensor is not working correctly.
If that doesn't solve it I may look for a used Carrera cooler and fan. My friend with an 87 couldn't even hit 210 after a 20 minute session going to redline for every shift.

I assume you felt the lines to make sure they were hot and therefore the thermostat was opening correctly? You shouldn't see those kinda temps while just driving to the track with outside temps that cool. The thermostat is supposed to open at 180.

Yes the lines and cooler get very hot. Bad on-engine thermostat?

I wonder if one was to use a liquid gas to freeze the threaded housing portion, then while it is at -190 degrees F, then apply heat to the nut, but only enough to get the fitting hot, so only it has time to expand from the heat application. Then attack with the wrench to loosen. Does anyone think that this would work? Tony.

Our host sells them for $445 OUCH but the also has an aftermarket MOCAL one for $131, I am not sure if the MOCAL one can be used in place of the factory one or not, Anyone?????

The factory one has a built in pressure relief valve apparently important when starting a warm/hot car. Grady gave me an explanation a while back...I'm sure its been posted before. On the other hand, my '72 has a mocal thermostat w/ aeroquip lines and I have yet to have any issues. If you were to go the mocal route with all factory lines, you'll need to get all the correct 30mm to AN-12 adapters ($30 each + elbows, etc).

Have you checked the on-engine thermostat for proper operation? Remember you engine has two oil coolers.

Ninesixfour,
I had the same temp problem with my 80SC, turned out to be that i mounted by sump plate and cover off a 1/4 turn and it was not letting the oil flow right. It was ok on the streets but when i pushed it on the track it almost got to 250 before my first session.
Never had heat issue before or since, sounds simple but that was all it was, my own stupidity. Sorry about the oil line and thermo. my did the same thing, that "special" wrench is worthless.

Hmmm....I did change the oil sump plate gasket during this adventure so it's certainly possible I installed it incorrectly. I didn't know there was an exact way it had to be mounted.

No I haven't done this. According to my research a partial engine drop is required to gain access?

Chuck I've read through the dual cooler installation at Elephant several times. I know 2 coolers would solve my problems (especially for a track car) and I can do without the windshield washer reservoir but I haven't seen a good solution yet for relocating the emissions canister. Any info you or anyone else has along with pictures would be greatly appreciated.
I know a monster Setrab/Mocal/B&B mounted behind an IROC bumper would also solve things but I wasn't planning on doing the bumpers just yet.

I went for a drive and got the oil up to around 230. Came home and crawled under the car to feel the engine cooler and it was very hot as was the line coming from the oil tank to the cooler. Could the heat exchanger make them that hot or is it safe to say the cooler's getting oil?

It should be too hot touch, finger buring hot.

Sometimes the fins get dirty, caked with oil and gunk. This prevents the fan from blowing through the cooler. Thus it gets hot, but it doesn't cool the oil. Check the botom of the cooler for gunk, then pull the cover off the top side of the cooler and see if it's clean.