Head Stud question
 

Any hints, tips, or tricks for removing head studs without doing a full tear down? Do I need to slide the jugs and slugs forward to heat inside the spigot? Or can I heat the outside of the case and get them loose? Heck, do I even need to apply heat?

I thought now that the heads are off, it's a good time to replace the divlar studs. Even though none are broken.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1202664623.jpg

You should count on removing pistons from the rods. Slide the cylinders (one by one) off the pistons just far enough to access the wrist pins. Take the clips off and heat the pistons with a heat gun. Pins should slide out and pistons/cyls can be removed.

If the studs are not broken, you might be able to just slide the cyls out and heat the bottom of the stud to remove, but cleaning the threads for the new studs could be tough.

John Walker posted this pic in one of his threads. You need to heat up the area marked in yellow with oxygen/acetylene. You cant get in there with the cylinder seated to the case.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1202672065.jpg

The rear most 5 studs on both sides came out easily for me without heat.
However, the front studs on cylinder 3 and 6 both required heating with a MAPP/O2 torch at the base in the spigot as illustrated above to remove.

Heat is usually required. I prefer to just heat the stud. It goes against conventional wisdom but works well for me.

-Andy

Dilavar Head Studs Removal.........
 

Rob,

I'm just about to do the removal of the Dilavar head studs of my spare motor (low mileage). There is a guy in this board who does regualrly remove Dilavar head studs with out using heat. In my case, I have one (1) broken head stud and will slide the cylinder with the broken head stud.

At first I was a little bit skeptical about this method until I learned more about it. Heat application is a plus but it's difficult to question his method without heat when he does a stud with ease in a minute or two. Send me a PM and I'll forward his name. Good luck.

Tony

If you have a MIG, just lay a bead on the stud near the base, this puts a lot of heat into it quickly. Worked for me, plus I was welding nuts on the broken ones which also adds lots of heat to them.

Robert, I double nutted mine. Most came out without any issues. There was only one that was really difficult and I used heat in the spigot for that one. No need to pull cylinders without trying to back them out first.

I just did this on my motor at the same stage at yours with all cylinders still in and locked down (with a little copper pipes I made).

I borrowed the correct Snapon Stud remover, collet style
Also borrowed the stud installer from Snap on, very neat little thing, NLA.

MAPP gas torch, set to the base of the case where the stud attaches, let it burn for 4-5 minutes each. Then, the studs came out with little fight.

Reinstall the steel studs to the same height, very important.

If you have broken studs, Sears sells a product I believe is called bolt out. It is a socket that has internal spiral thread. I think a set goes for about $30. Find the size that matches the diameter of the stud and when you turn it in it bites into the metal. This was a life saver.

For intact studs, the Snap-on tool works great.

I started with propane in the areas shown on the above photo with very little success. The engine block discipated the heat pretty fast. Then I went to Mapp gas in the same location and that worked pretty well. Some came out without heat.
Rick