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Engine Pad - Installed!
The winter list just got one project shorter. I installed a new OEM light weight pad WITHOUT dropping or partial dropping the engine.
Here's the engine bay without the pad. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1202704762.jpg I did a lot of scrapping and scrubbing. Next is the pad. Note the pad must be installed with the skin toward the engine since there is a hole for a wire to come through on the left side. I did not know how to unplug the wire so a quick snip with the scissors and the problem was solved. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1202705032.jpg Next on the list was dismantling. Air cleaner, cruise module, heater fan and ductwork all came off. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1202705139.jpg I then dry fit the pad. Not an easy process and certainly would have been difficult with glue applied. Once in place at the back the top of the pad was laid on the engine. I bet I test fit and adjusted a half a dozen times. Once I was satisfied I applied 3M super adhesive and 3M spray adhesive on the pad. I was only able to apply from where the pad turns horizontal to the exposed edge. It is well glewed. With all the tubes, wires, etc. at the bottom I can't see the lower part of the pad moving. So here it is. Looks great. One down. Many more to go. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1202705770.jpg |
Looks pretty good. Did you notice any reduction in sound?
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+1
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Still snow on the ground. Hopefully I'll get out in a couple of weeks to check sound.
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Looks nice!
Did you use the pad Pelican sells? I need to put this on my list of things to do also. Scott |
Yes. It is the OEM light weight pad from Pelican.
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I recently changed my pad as well... a couple of suggestions:
1- Cover your engine with an old blanket when scraping off the old mat and residual glue.. the stuff gets everywhere. 2- Cover your engine with a sheet of plastic if you're using spray adhesive. Residual adhesive may land on engine components acting like a magnet for dust, and dirt. An ounce of prevention.... |
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Believe it or not, but I made great progress with a flat piece of wood (like a shim) and my thumb nail. Took about 1-hour to scrape off the bulk of the residual glue and foam. |
Get it off soon after removing the pad. I did not and the residue is as hard as a rock. I had most of it already scrapped off enough for a new pad. Removing enough to look nice exposed would have been a PITA.
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you can get door shims at most hardware or bldg. supply stores - when one breaks just reach into the pack for another
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A good glue remover is this stuff
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/2136324-post22.html I don't know anywhere to get it on line. I've done a Google search numerous times and it appears you have to contact Ricmar directly via phone- no online store that I can locate!!! Point being, a good biodegradable engine degreaser works well in this instance. It's worth a try to do a test with a similar product like the Ricmar stuff. Scraping off old adhesive is teh suck. Anything that makes a tedious project like this easier, i'm all for it. |
Thanks. I'll try to find some or a reasonable substitute.
I am really tired of a firewall that resembles Chewbacca with a bad case of mange. It's even worse than the first photo in the thread (no offense;)) and the car is Grand Prix White so it's hard to overlook. |
Bob
Thats the primary reason I put a new pad in. |
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If I can't get it clean, I may put it in myself. Ugly vs. 1# weight loss. That is a tough one. |
I wonder if I should stop posting pics of my ugly old engine bay with dried glue and clumps of old foam on the fire wall?
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closer to 1/2 lb.
stock items: 4.7 old style engine firewall sound pad 0.7 new style engine firewall sound pad 4 lb. wt savings new vs. old - Chuck Miller; Esses 15(1): 5 The wt. savings of 1 lb. is inconsequential unless you are in one hell of a race class.... |
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Thanks |
oh... actually the pics are both of the dismantled engine bay?
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