Finally got my engine out...Advise needed

For those that don't remember I missed a shift in 78 911sc and bent the #3 intake valve. I did a compression test on a cold engine and that was the only cylinder that didn't have compression so I think that is the only one. This was not a mechincal over rev but one where the rev limiter didn't kick in.

I finally have the engine out after 5 months. It is currently sitting on a dolly that I made. A valve keeper is missing (broken rocker arm)People have told me that I should just put the engine on a bench and do what I need to do. I would like to mount it to an engine stand. I however do not want to spend $400 on that the yoke and clamp that are in most catalogs.

Can I use a normal stand. If no would anyone out there care to let me borrow or rent theres. If you would be interested let me know.

The engine was apart 2 years ago for sud replacement, at that time the verdict on the engine was everything was good. I plan to have a valve job on the affected head and I may have all 6 done. I also plan to upgrade to carrera tensioners. A clutch is in the works as the original now has about 75K miles on it. When it was apart before the shop said it still had about 20% life left. That was about 10,000 miles ago. Anything else you guys would reccomend. My wallet isn't fat but I don't want to pull the engine for a while.

osidak
00 Jetta TDI
78 911 sc Targa

A 'regular' engine stand can be used, but you must drill a couple of new holes in the arms for the lower studs to attach to. Do a search on 'engine stand' here and you will find some pictures that RarlyL8 posted.
Tom

I'm thrifty too. Is the broken rocker on an intake valve? This would result in NO compression. I might replace the rocker and do another compression check. Maybe avoid removing the head.

I'd replace the clutch, including release bearing and probably pressure plate. Light grind on the flywheel, perhaps just scotchbrite.

Oh, I think engine stands are all the same. You just need a yoke that fits Porsches. Your bench will work, too, especially if the rocker is your problem.

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'83 SC

As stated above, you can use a regular engine stand. I bought a 1500 pound stand at an autoparts store for $50.00 and kept my engine on it all winter. Do a search on "engine stands" and you will see the pic that shows where to drill the holes in the lower arms. The only thing you can't do is completly turn the engine upside down with the heat exchangers on. They interfere with the stand.

Kurt V
72 911E

Superman,
The intake valve is bent, it was locked in place until I gave a light tap with a punch, besides the contact surface on the top of the stem is chewed up abit. I am pulling at least that head. I will also start looking for clutch kits. Does anyone have a favorite clutch Sachs....any others. I want good quality parts but my wallet screams cheap if you know what I mean.

osidak

There are 3 and 4-caster engine stands out there that will work without any modifications! Check the pics of Jack McAllister's 2.7 bolted to a 1000 lb 3-caster Summit Racing stand at the following page:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/MotorCity/hatari/rebuild-1.html

There are very similar engine stans at some of my local part stores ... 3-caster models rated at 1000 lb, and 4-caster models rated at 1200 lb. It would be worth checking to save $320 or so!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

if you don't pull all the heads and spin all the valves in a chuck to see if they may be ever so slightly bent, you may be wasting your time on this single head repair. compression tests do not show much in the way of very minor bending. a 10-15lb difference on a compression check doesn't look too bad, but a leakdown might show 30% leakage on that hole.

Warren thanks for the heads up on the engine stands, I will going out the various local stores and checking on different stands. Is there anyway to tell if a stand will work with out mods just by looking. My engine is still completely assembled and I would like to get the stand asap.

John W./Warren-I would like to minimize cost but I see your point about valves that are slightly bent. Will a leak down provide an accurate gauge of valve condition.

osidak

a leakdown test will give you a pretty good idea of how well the valves/rings are sealing. 4% is considered good. you need to check any bad cylinder 2 or 3 times. carbon between a valve and seat will show up as leakage, as will rings that don't have any oil on them. so it's best to do it when the engine is still running. the leakage you see with the engine on the bench, may be that bit of carbon faking you out. if the engine ran, you could fire it up, blow out the carbon, and re-do the test. a bent valve also usually has excessive valve clearance.

[This message has been edited by john walker's workshop (edited 04-15-2001).]

We've got some pretty smart folks on this Board.

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'83 SC

John W
As I don't have a way to start the engine while is out of the car it looks like I will taking all the heads off DRATS!!!

How much would it cost to have all 6 heads redone. Would it make any sense to have them cut a bit to raise compression?

Who is recomended for doing head rebuilds at a good price.

osidak


[This message has been edited by osidak (edited 04-15-2001).]

oops

[This message has been edited by osidak (edited 04-15-2001).]

I just shipped my heads, clyinders, pistons, and cams to EBS Racing. I've been working with Don, and he has been very helpful. They came highly recommended, and their prices seem very reasonable as well. http://www.ebsracing.com/
Best of luck!!

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Steve
'89 Carrera 4
'62 190 SL

Does it matter if it's the 1000 or the 1200 lb engine stand? Porsche engines only weigh 4-500lbs, right? Checkers has the 1000lb one on sale, 20% off this week. I'm gonna go check it out.

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Jeff
1976 911S

Here's my 3.6L on a stand I picked up for $39 that's rated for 750 lbs. It's mounted on the Porsche stand adapter, which I think is worth it. (I just thought the picture was cool and was looking for an excuse to post it!)


[This message has been edited by sms1305 (edited 04-16-2001).]

OLLIE'S PORSCHE MACHINING in santa ana, ca. does good work.714.558.7334. the heads should be flycut for cleanup only. if you take too much off the heads, you end up with cylinder fin interference, thrust plate fitting problems and loose chains, etc. the cost depends on how many valves are replaced. it's not hard to spend $1000 with 4-5 hours labor, all new valves and guides, flycut, and spring height setup. i do them in house, so i'm not sure what other prices are out there.

John, a friend of mine has an SC that has an oil leak we have been trying to track down for a while now. That pic above reminded me of it.
It seems like it is coming from beween the heads and the cam tower, kind of by where the oil return tubes go into the heads. We replaced the oil return tubes, and it did not solve the problem (it seems pretty clear it is NOT the oil return tubes, by closely examining them).
It is even possible for oil to leak from between the heads and the cam tower??
(we've also checked the head studs, none are loose).
Thanks so much for your help!

Use a 4 caster engine stand, the 3 caster is too unstable. Besides making your repairs, I'd replace the rear engine seal, the oil cooler seals, the engine thermostat seal, and any seals that leak; especially those that you can't get to with the engine in the car. With a 23 year old engine probably most of the rubber stuff (seals & hoses) are getting hard and brittle, inspect carefully. Definately do a valve job on all of the heads. The exhaust valves are the hottest running part of an air cooled engine. Consider replacing the exhaust guides to an upgraded type with better material.
Bob W.

Obviously you guy's have 2-car garages that are larger than mine. If anyone has a slightly crowded workspace, here's one suggestion. Due to floor space considerations (none to speak of), I rebuilt my engine on a workbench. Worked fine. To access all sides of the engine, I placed a lazy susan-type turntable and a piece of plywood under the engine. I did all the final assembly with this setup until I installed it (minus heat exchangers and induction) into the car.

Sherwood Lee
http:members.rennlist.org/911pcars