![]() |
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Richmond, BC
Posts: 54
|
LC1 install
i have purchased a LC1 & analog gauge from Innovate.
how do you install it? yes, i've read the manual and the forum, but i guess experience is best. specifically, here are my questions: Innovate says "red wire should be connected to a switched 12V power source, with a minimum fuse size of 5A" So, where did you connect the red wire on a 911SC? Where did you attach the Blue heater ground & White system ground? Did you solder these wires to a nut and attach to the engine block? Where did you install the calibration LED & button? in the engine compartment or dash? i understand that this LED & button should be ground at the same location for Blue and White wires. Pictures are most welcomed. And with your help, i will post pics to create a step-by-step installation procedure for others. Thank you. Last edited by Turbo Den; 02-17-2008 at 03:23 PM.. |
||
![]() |
|
74 911Ebay
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 1,035
|
The problem on my 74 was inconsistent voltage. with the car running the voltage would bounce between 12V and 14V.
I ended up running a solenoid from a 12v key on source on the rear 3 fuse panel on one side and 12v from the starter on the other. General Idea. I will get you more specifics if you need. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Richmond, BC
Posts: 54
|
thanks Doug,
yes, i need more specifics. i am very weak on electrical stuff. how about the "switched 12V power source"? what device did you tap onto? |
||
![]() |
|
I would rather be driving
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 9,108
|
I have an LC1 for my EFI install. The output goes to the EFI ECU. I made my own relay triggered fuse block since I had injectors and a bunch of other things to power. The install of the device will be about the same.
First, I welded a bung on the SSIs right behind the collector. The sensor is installed and the wire goes straight up. I pulled down the seal and slid the wire between the engine seal and the engine tin. If you slide it to a corner there will be more slack and less force on the wire. The +12V source can be connected to the Switched output from the 3 fuse terminal at the rear electronics panel. Chances are you have something there that is not connected (like a rear wiper). Check with a Multimeter. One will be 12V hot and two will be 12V switched. YOu can always reconfigure the jumpers to change things around. Ground all wires with one single crimped lug at the chassis grounding point just forward of the electronics panel. I drilled a hole in the electronics panel to mount the test button and LED. PUll the panel and mount these from the backside. The LC1 control unit can be bundled with the wires in front of the CDI unit. Then just send the wire to the front of the car through the analog out to your new gauge. I would follow the factory wiring coming down the pass seat pan and into the tunnel. Then run up the tunnel coming out in the far front next to the brake feed lines. You might have to drill a hole to bring the wire into the dash/trunk area. These are separated with the bulkhead. I used the hole from the speedometer cable that is no longer used. Use a quality insulated and protected wire for this application.
__________________
Jamie - I can explain it to you. But I can not understand it for you. 71 911T SWT - Sun and Fun Mobile 72 911T project car. "Minne" - A tangy version of tangerine #projectminne classicautowerks.com - EFI conversion parts and suspension setups. IG Classicautowerks |
||
![]() |
|
74 911Ebay
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 1,035
|
Sorry for the delay.
I am going to slightly cop out as I have modified my 3 fuse panel in the engine compartment so much that I cant get any more specific. As Jamie says find the 3 fuse terminal that has 12v switched, (see above post) with a Volt meter. Get a 30A SPST (Single Pole Single Throw) relay (Any parts store will have one). This will have 4 connectors on the relay labeled 30, 85, 86, & 87 You will run: 85 to ground 86 to the switched 12v on the 3 fuse panned connection 30 to 12v from the starter/battery (Always 12v regardless of the key) 87 to the LC-1 power. This gives you pretty clean power, that your LC-1 likes. If the power isnt clean enough I can help you add a condenser into the system, but lets burn that bridge when/if we come to it. The ground wires I simply used crimped connectors to any suitable ground. The LED and the calibrate button I mounted on the panel that has the 3 fuses on it. You dont need it in the car as you only need to calibrate the unit once every 6 months or so (Every oil change?) and it only take 1 min or so to cal. Hope this helps. If not just give a holler. Doug |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Richmond, BC
Posts: 54
|
Super thanks to Jamie & Doug.
your replies are very specific and now i know how to get started. i will post pics of my work asap. i plan to install this coming weekend. Thanks again. |
||
![]() |
|