possible to change cv boot without taking entire axel out?
 

I have a 1982 porsche 911 sc and need to change my cv boot on the rear closest to the wheel, i took all the bolts out with an allen wrench...no what do i do? the boot still has no clerence at all to come out, im trying to avoid taking out the entire axel, but it looks that way...also the new boot i have did not come with the metal ring that the bolts go into that attaches to the rubber boot, i just purchased the rubber section, do i need the entire kit? my parts look to be in good shape to re-use, just wondering how the metal ring comes off the old boot to be re-used on the new one....thanks a bunch

take out the entire axle. Assuming that you have the right parts. Some of the replacement boots have a thin flange (compared to OE). can you post a picture?

I agree its best just to tap out the axle shaft. The nut is VERY tight ( somewhere around 330 ft lbs. ) so you will need an impact gun or jack handle/breaker bar combo.

I just replaced my outer boot this week. It's a very straight forward and basic job in my opinion. The hardest part is cleaning up the greasy mess!!! I recommend rubber gloves and lots of rags!! You can reuse the metal clamps if you are careful about taking them off the old boots.

Not that hard to pull the axle....

Hey. Is it necessary to undo the main stub axle nut to pull a half shaft? I thought you just undid the alen screws on either end and then tap out the axle.

It's easy and messy.

On that year, just undo the CV bolts and the axle comes out. No need to remove the stub axle from the trailing arm, it is a sepreate piece.

Cheers

CV boot replacement w/o removing the axle
 

While there is such a beastie as a split CV axle boot, which allows replacement without removing the axle; I would not recommend them due to obvious reasons of lesser integrity and longevity of the boot.
However if I were away on vacation and needed a quick fix...

If one went bad, they could all be replaced. I took both of my shafts out and took them to a rebuilder. He went through them and installed new boots for $100.

I think a new pair of axles is 200-250 bucks. I don't know exactly how to tell if your cv joints need replacement but John Walker inspected mine and said I should replace them. I did the job myself and it was surprisingly easy. Make sure you buy some grease to stick in there.

On an 82, drop the axle out. Just undo all the little allen head bolts on both sides (transaxle and outboard). The axle and CV's will then come out pretty easy, looks like a barbell. If you drop it on your head it will hurt very badly...

On the bench you need to remove the c-clip that retains the CV assembly on the axle. In an absolutely perfect world where you are absolutely sure there is no CV damage, just remove the c-clip and turn the axle assembly over so the CV is on the bench. Remove the retaining metal strap on the axle around the thin end of the CV boot. Grab the whole thing and slide it off the end of the axle.

Reverse the process to put it back together. Pay careful attention if there is a washer on either end to put it back exactly where you found it. If it needs more grease, add it now. If you "think" it might need more grease, add it now. IF you are missing the clamps, go to a boat supply store. They sell something that is a very acceptable substitute. It is a stainless steel clamp universal clamp. Last time I bought them they were about $7 for a ten-pack. Very workmanlike.

To put the axle back in, stuff the wheel end in first. Use two small screwdrivers or awls to align two holes. Then put in two CV bolts opposite each other. Do the same thing on the transaxle end. That way you don't have to hold the heavy barbell axle above your head ('cause if you drop it on your head it hurts very very badly). Then install all the rest of the CV bolts, tighten as required.

My 82 also had gaskets in there. I have better luck putting the gaskets on the wheel side and transaxle side than putting them on the CV joint. I don't know which is "proper" but those ends are easy to clean and the gasket will stick better - at least for me...

Then again, I'm the one that has dropped the axle on my head...:rolleyes:

angela

Ok, understand this is an old thread, but a timely one for me after a weekend inspection.

I have a 1983 SC, am I right to assume that you just need to undo the CV joint bolts on the trans and stub axle sides? According to the Bentley, that's the drill -- no mention of undoing the outer axle nut.

I'm very much a novice mechanic but committed to doing the task correctly.

Also, seems a lot easier to simply replace the entire assembly.

Appreciate any sage advice from the resident pros.

Thanks,

Rob

Sure you can but why, it is the same amount of effort.

But if you want go thru the pain here it is:

Take the nut off and pull the spindle side out and to the side.

Get the long thin neck oil funnel and cut the larger side to the diameter of the cv joint. Slip over the spindle and cv.

This assuming you have removed the torn boot/s.

Outer boot, turn new boot inside out and spray some tacky lubricant like k&n filter oil on it and the funnel.

Place the small end of the new boot and slip over the tip of the funnel.

Now the fun part, push like crazy and quickly, if you are lucky it slip right on. If you go slow it may not. You can heat it up with a heat to make it more pliable.

The inner, no need to flip it inside out.

That's it.

Yes I did this twice on my lady's Lexus es300.

Jim:eek: