Fuel tank seal gap. Is this normal?

[jcunning]

I picked up a 1982 SC that has been in storage for 10 years.
One of the projects is to drain and inspect the fuel tank. As I was looking over the top and bottom of the tank, I noticed that in one section of the tank seal there is a gap between the trunk and the tank. I can easily stick my fingers through the gap. The rest of the tank looks like it fits nice and close to the trunk.

I looked under the car and I can't see any obvious damage to indicate the tank was used as a jacking point or that is was pushed up by a curb.

Currently the tank is pretty full of 10 year old gas.

I don't think this is right but I wanted to get other opinions.

[javadog]

Well, if you are going to drain the tank anyway, you might as well remove it, replace the foam seal and fix any rust issues in the area. It's easy to do and when you get it off, you'll see that an extra bit of foam is useful here and there to fill the gap properly. I also would spray some Wurth sealing wax around the joint between the tank and the body after it goes back in, from underneath, to make it more watertight.

JR

[Rot 911]

There should not be a gap like in that picture. I suspect someone had the tank out before and just failed to get it reseated properly. Oh and don't waste money getting the factory seal. All it is is foam weather strip. Go to a hardware store and pick up the same thing for about $2.00!

[Fritz Peyerl]

make sure you get some closed cell foam, the cheap weather stripping absorbs water and in a few years you will have no mounting lip

[Gunter]

With 10 years of storage, the seal issue may be the least of the problems.
If the fuel system did not get a double-dose of Stabil and Injector Cleaner, and the engine wasn't started now and then, the entire CIS is gummed up.
Tank needs to be cleaned (And possibly re-coated) all lines from the tank to the engine need to be blown out, Accumulator drained; new filter, disconnect and drain fuel lines in the engine bay, especially to the WUR and injectors.
Soak the injectors in injector cleaner for a day+.
Reconnect everything. I recommend a new fuel pump/checkvalve plus a new short fuel line from tank to pump.
New plugs, wires, cap & rotor.
Fill clean tank with new gas, add 2 bottles of Techron, start engine and hope that the FD is not gummed up internally.
Have fun and good luck.

[jcunning]

Originally Posted by Gunter

With 10 years of storage, the seal issue may be the least of the problems.
If the fuel system did not get a double-dose of Stabil and Injector Cleaner, and the engine wasn't started now and then, the entire CIS is gummed up.
Tank needs to be cleaned (And possibly re-coated) all lines from the tank to the engine need to be blown out, Accumulator drained; new filter, disconnect and drain fuel lines in the engine bay, especially to the WUR and injectors.
Soak the injectors in injector cleaner for a day+.
Reconnect everything. I recommend a new fuel pump/checkvalve plus a new short fuel line from tank to pump.
New plugs, wires, cap & rotor.
Fill clean tank with new gas, add 2 bottles of Techron, start engine and hope that the FD is not gummed up internally.
Have fun and good luck.

The engine was removed and sold off many years ago so I don't have to worry about that part. I'm installing a 3.2 with DME, which includes fuel lines, fuel pump, injectors, etc, so the only worry for me is the tank, the rubber fuel lines in the trunk, and the tank seal.

[Won]

I'm pretty sure when I pulled my factory tank the foam around the battery tray as pictured above wasn't compressed.

[KevinP73]

It's completely normal