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2820# car
230-me= 2590 showroom stock is limited to options for your year. technically RUF bumpers were an option. i might add the above weight was with (4) hellas and light pod on OEM hood weighed on PCA ZONE 8 scales at california mtr speedway. you think yer skimming weight but as mentioned above it takes alot of little things to add up. for resale IF i ever sell car and PCA rules our mantra has been "as it came from the showroom" my best advice................. buy a race car already prepped stripped suspended motored the WAY YOU WANT and not try and build one from a stock car. leave stock car alone and go putt putt and buy REAL racecar for the track. theres plenty out there to choose from every month in pano magazine. you really limit yourself to buyers when a/c and heat are gone no matter where you live. add headers loud pipes strip everything out and the ONLY person that will want to ride with you is another certified GOOFY PORSCHE FREAKAZOID! like me! |
Electric seats? V. heavy. Go to even stock manual sport seats to save a lot.
Dynamat is also heavy. Engine sound pad is nothing. Bumpers and shocks are v. heavy. Those big wheels and tires also weigh a lot more than those skinny tires on the long hoods. Helium is a joke, BTW. |
Hmm, stock bumpers are way over 60 lbs. Spare tire and jack ? over 40. All glass ?=HVY. Rocker panels and rubber unbelievable HVY. Pwr anything- widows, seats , mirrors=HVY
You need lt. wt. starter, some lexon , F.G.bumpers, C.F. hood, for results |
the sound mats on the inside rear package tray and the inside rear seat buckets are heavy....did you all remove these items too?
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Sherwood - do have actual wts. on the door beams? They look like sheet metal to me, thus much lighter than the shells themselves...
------------------------- Concentrate any wt. saving work on the rear of the car. Also, I would not trust the scales - from what you say they can weigh heavy trucks. If so, then they will not be that accurate for a car. The Or. scales along the hwy are checked to within 20 lbs. BUT they have never told me at what wt. they check them. Scales will still be somewhat useful for comparisons however. To be more accurate (likely), find a buddy with a set of corner balancing scales. To be honest, the only thing you can really trust is a set of NBS traceable scales, that have had the calibration checked recently. The data I compiled and those of Jim Calzia are accurate, but both are aimed at the early cars. This may help tho: http://www.penaltykicker.com/911/data/ |
lightweight battery and one recaro race bucket now. 2553lbs as of today, without jack, tools, and spare, with 3/4 tank of gas.
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Electric motors like the ones in the power seats are heavy. The electric windows are about the same weight as the manual AFAIK. The winding mechanism makes up for the weight of the motor. All of the rest of the stuff in there is the same regardless of power or armstrong lifting. I guess the 15 feet of wire might account for something... Power locks, maybe a bit o'weight. If a scale that is designed to weigh loaded transport trucks (up to 150000 lbs) was used to weigh the car, it might be a few pounds off. The sensitivity at either end of its capability might not be so accurate. Your car might actually weigh MORE than what you think. Wouldn't that be a kick in the pants. -kevin |
that scale is likely off by at least 20 lbs. - as based on Or DOT truck scale calibrations
g50's are in fact heavier than the 915 -- a Mg cased 915 is less wt. than the last Al cased 915 -- the clutch is a substantial part of the g50 porkiness there is a thread with some info on it - you'll have to search for it |
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not much of a difference with electric/manual windows either. the scale today was an electronic racing scale used for corner weighting. |
NOT that large ??? I would pay a good chunk of $$$$$$$ ( and have ) to get rid if 40 lbs !!! Thats like amost 1/2 of a 100 !!
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Take a bag of trash to the dump and ask the person at the booth how much your car weighs when you exit. That is how I found out my Avalanche weighs 6,900 pounds....YOW!
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Like already stated "those scales can be off (and more ) 20 lbs real EZ
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There's another thread going on weights... I reported that my "84" Turbo Look was just weighed by electronic scales, 2799 lbs.
Includes: 3/4 full fuel, A/C, Sun Roof, LSD, 16" BBS Wheels, Optima battery, Tool kit and jack, Spare tire, Full carpeting, Less floor mats. |
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Sporto veloce
did you remove evaporator and expansion valve in smuggler box? associated hoses? Rocker panel mouldings? |
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The rocker moldings are still on the car also. Having a G50, the torsion bar covers are not round and kinda goofy looking, so when the moldings are off it looks a little too unfinished for my taste. I'm planning to take them off eventually when I get glass IROC bumpers, but right now, it has the 74 Carrera look, which I would like to preserve until I decide to "go to town" with it. |
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If you replace the hood and front/rear bumpers with fiberglass, you're going to lose according to my scale measurements: Hood = -21 lbs Complete front bumper = -33 lbs Complete rear bumper = -37 lbs Factory sport seats weigh 49 lbs EACH. That's what my RS America cloth 4way power seats weigh. Install a light track seat with alloy side mounts that weighs ~25 lbs like my Cobra Imola S Lose the windshield washer bottle for up to 15 lbs depending on how full? Lose the rear charcoal cannister for 5-1/2 lbs Lose the side rocker panel trim for 12 lbs but I think the G50 cars look like crap without them Install a custom muffler and you'll lose ~ 10 lbs (factory style banana mufflers are robustly built and heavy) My car currently weighs 2650 with me in it fully equipped to go on the track (helmet, harness bar, harnesses, no jack, compressor) and a little more than 1/2 tank of gas. It's almost exactly equipped like the original poster's car, with few less, few more things that are not all that heavy. I can still lose weight by eliminating factory door panels and speakers (rear speakers and radio already gone), sunroof, lighter exhaust system (I have custom muffler, factory exhaust manifolds and a Fabspeed premuffler), lexan windows and fiberglass fenders. I think my car is almost at the point where you really have to work to lose weight. Losing the sunroof, installing lexan windows and installing a real roll bar involves some commitment that kills some of the streetability of the car. But hey, my car is barely streetable anymore with 23/31 t-bars, R compound tires, squeaky brake upgrade, little sound deadening.......... I figure with some more changes the best I can do is a car that's around 2450 with 1/2 tank of gas and fully equipped for safe track driving. |
The simplest way to cut weight is to move from one 'certified' scale to another until you find one that gives you a great number. In my experience, there's a lot of variation in scales.
There's probably a little bit of exaggeration in some guy's online boasts, especially with how much gas they say was in the car. But who knows? My car has all fiberglass except the roof, race seats, much of the interior deleted, lexan in the back and quarter windows, aluminum trailing arms and front crossmember, lightweight exhuast and a handful of other little weight saving tricks -- and it's still heavier than stock. |
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