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Johnb911's Avatar
 
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Valve Adjustment Q

Just put the motor back in.

Have a definite knocking under drivers side bottom valve cover.

Id this the sign of a valve too tight or too loose ussually.
Because I tried to make sure I was on the tight side when I did them.
Over and Over.

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Old 05-04-2009, 07:12 PM
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Valves usually "tick".

"Knocking" is usually a bad sign, and is most often associated with a spun rod bearing. You say you just put the motor back in. Did you recently rebuild it?
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Old 05-04-2009, 07:19 PM
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No rebuid.

Did all gaskets and hoses of CIS.
FIRST valve adjust.

I only did it because I had the motor out and it had been I would estimate 10000 KM since he PO did the last one.

It's sounds like the normal ticking it has always made just alot louder in that one spot.
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Old 05-04-2009, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnb911 View Post

It's sounds like the normal ticking it has always made just alot louder in that one spot.


maybe a valve adj was necessary and that noisy rocker is only relatively louder?

I'd go back in there anyway and check it out.
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Old 05-05-2009, 05:30 AM
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To avoid draining out too much oil, lift the car only on one side, then remove the valve cover and check the position of the rocker shafts.
They sometimes move and need to be centred.
And check for a broken spring and/or Elephant Foot.

Tight valves don't make noise but loose clearances will tick.
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Old 05-05-2009, 09:04 AM
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Will try and get in there tonight.


Thanks
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Old 05-05-2009, 09:14 AM
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Isolating unusual engine noises is made easier using a hose. Move around the engine with the hose end with the other end to your ear.

To isolate/identify a spun con rod bearing, while the engine is running, short out one cylinder at a time on that bank by temporarily removing the spark plug wire from the cap. If the noise reduces/goes away on the shorted cylinder, that's the culprit.

As others suggest, could also be a worn rocker arm or rocker arm shaft. If the noise is from the chain box, could be an imminent chain tensioner failure, but the sound frequency is somewhat different from a rod knock as is excessive valve clearance.

Hope this helps.
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Old 05-05-2009, 09:40 AM
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When setting the valves.

Should the feeler pull out and slide around easy or should there be some pressure on it.

I know this is a hard one to answer.
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Old 05-05-2009, 10:03 AM
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The gauge should not go in too easily, and you should feel a definite pressure against your feeler gauge while sliding back 7 forth.
Old 05-05-2009, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
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When setting the valves.

Should the feeler pull out and slide around easy or should there be some pressure on it.

I know this is a hard one to answer.
How about, The next larger feeler blade should not fit easily or at all.

Sherwood
Old 05-05-2009, 11:54 AM
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I just (2 days ago) adjusted my valves and according to Wayne's book and other advise here on the forum states that the feeler gauge should slide back in and with some resistance. This is how I did mine re-checked three times before I buttoned everything back up. No problems dont be afraid just requires some patience to make sure gap is correct before tightening the nut back down. Best advice I can give is dont doubt yourself when setting gaps....
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Old 05-05-2009, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunter View Post
To avoid draining out too much oil, lift the car only on one side, then remove the valve cover and check the position of the rocker shafts.
They sometimes move and need to be centred.
And check for a broken spring and/or Elephant Foot.

Tight valves don't make noise but loose clearances will tick.
Gunter,

is there a procedure for centering the rocker shafts? i have a nervous tick of my own...
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Old 05-05-2009, 01:06 PM
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Ya Gunter.

What about those rocker shafts.
Talk to me like I have no idea what all those moving parts do.

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Old 05-05-2009, 05:06 PM
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