shift rod removal '72 911T

[tfranko29]

Guten Tag Freunde,

Does an easy way exist to remove the shift rod from the tunnel?
All couplers, shifters, bolts, carpet and bushings are out the way already, my shift rod metal is torn away at the front end of the shift rod and a replacement rod is in the mail.

Thanks
Frank Thomas
PGA Professional, not mechanic

[jpnovak]

The shift rod will usually only come out through the tunnel access to the transmission selector shaft. This means the transmission must come out.

You might have room to remove the transmission mount (support transmission first.), jack up and push tranny to the side and wiggle the rod out.

I know there was a thread on how to do it. The search button is your freunde here.

[tfranko29]

Are you 'scheissing' me? The tranny has to come out!!!!!!!!

[Jim Sims]

Yes. Unless you do a "hack" job and start cutting tunnel sheet metal thereby compromising the structural soundness of the car.

[barney911rs]

+1 on the tranny having to come out. This was what drove me to go ahead and get the Hargett Shifter now so I could pull it out while I already had the engine and tranny out of the car.

[john walker's workshop]

i've repaired the rods while still in the tunnel quite a few times.

[Roger 911]

If John Walker can tell you how to fix it while still in the car, go for it by all means. However, if you must drop the engine and tranny, it really is not that big of a deal. I have done it several times, and I've done it by myself. Jack stands and a couple of floor jacks are about all you need.

[john walker's workshop]

each repair depends on how the item is damaged. i've gone as far as cutting 4" or so off the offending end and reattaching a donor end. it helps to fit a short sleeve inside that both sections of tube line up over, then mig weld the joint. with the shifter out and the front cup and guide bracket removed, and the rear coupler off, the tube can be pulled up and rotated in order to do this. the weld needs to be far enough back so it will not enter the bushing in the support bracket at the rear of the shifter hole.

[tfranko29]

That's a very good idea John Walker.

[john walker's workshop]

worked so far. maybe a bit more than 4", just so the weld doesn't hang up on the circular bushing in the support bracket when normally shifted into 2nd, 4th and rev. i don't yank engines/trannys unless i really have to. might want to mark it for "top" before cutting so the slight curve it has goes the right way, then be sure the front cup set screw hole faces left before welding.