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Valve adjustment shopping list

I've compiled this shopping list for adjusting the valves and replacing the covers with the turbo version:


Will this cover everything? I know about the backside method of adjusting the valves but I'll probably try both methods since this is going to be my first attempt.

One question: are the silicone gaskets reusable?

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Old 09-20-2007, 12:28 AM
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Why the upper cam covers?

Silicone gaskets are reusable. Nylocks & washers are too, once or twice, except on the lower row of the exhaust covers, where the oil actually wants to drain out.

Have loctite & a couple of non-nylock 8mm nuts on hand to reinstall studs if any come out.

2 popsicle sticks rubber banded 1/2 way around feeler gages makes backside method much easier IMO - keeps gages from buckling and provides a convenient longer handle...

Stubby screwdriver is a must.

Good Luck!
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Old 09-20-2007, 02:07 AM
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don't forget doing the cam side method is a different gauge
Old 09-20-2007, 03:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burgermeister View Post
Why the upper cam covers?
No need to change the upper covers? The stock ones are good enough?


Quote:
Originally Posted by burgermeister View Post
Have loctite & a couple of non-nylock 8mm nuts on hand to reinstall studs if any come out.
I'll get back to you for help if this happens. Thx.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrinkley View Post
don't forget doing the cam side method is a different gauge
Thanks. I already have the correct gauges for that. I'll use the popsicle stick trick burgermeister suggested here too.
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Old 09-20-2007, 03:45 AM
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i don't see kitty litter, a large roll of paper towels or a massive basin to catch the oil.

agree on the top covers. wouldn't bother.
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Old 09-20-2007, 03:53 AM
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Wouldnt bother with the lower covers either unless you are leaking after having tried to sand them flat and reinstalling.
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Old 09-20-2007, 04:22 AM
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Pelican sells a full kit with everything you need to do a valve adjustment. That's what I bought when I did mine. It comes with gaskets, hardware, and two sealing rings for the drain plugs. Then you'll just need the oil filter, feeler gauge, and extra blades. You can replace the bottom covers with the Turbo type as an upgrade if you want. Luckily the PO had already done that on my car.

Then you can send me the difference in the money you save from your previous order.
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Old 09-20-2007, 04:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arbita1 View Post
You can replace the bottom covers with the Turbo type as an upgrade if you want. Luckily the PO had already done that on my car.
Actually, I believe Porsche provided the valve covers on your car...
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Old 09-20-2007, 05:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efhughes3 View Post
Actually, I believe Porsche provided the valve covers on your car...

Oh...I thought the SC's didn't have them.
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Old 09-20-2007, 05:19 AM
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Did you stick your head underneath the car to first check if a PO has not upgraded your covers? I didn't know mine had been upgraded until I did my oil change.
Old 09-20-2007, 06:53 AM
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Unless you covers are severly damaged, why not try to sand them on a good surface-plate. I use a 3/4" piece of glass, 120 grit and lots of WD 40. Works well for me
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Old 09-20-2007, 07:26 AM
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what do turbo valve covers do?
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Old 09-20-2007, 07:59 AM
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Less prone to leaking, apparently.
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Old 09-20-2007, 08:36 AM
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turbo covers are reinforced and leak less

avoid using Loctite - if you need it then something is wrong
Old 09-20-2007, 08:55 AM
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I'm getting ready for my first valve adjust also. Here's a couple of questions:
Why would I buy the 34 nuts and washers for $25.50, when the gasket kit (34 nuts and washers plus gaskets) costs $24.50? Also, are these special washers? I know Wayne and the crew need to make money on this stuff, but I'm thinking I could probably get them locally for a whole lot less.
TIA
Old 09-20-2007, 10:30 AM
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I Too and getting ready to perform a valve adjust. I bought my Nylock nuts in a bag of 50 from my local Fastenal store along with appropriate washers, also in a 50 ct. bag for around $30 for the whole deal ($19 for the nuts, and like $10 for the washers). 50 ensures I've got plenty in case I drop some, squirells runs off with them, children eat a few, etc.

My question is, how long should it take to perform the proceedure? I plan on putting the car up on ramps the night before and removing any hoses and bits that will get in the way ahead of time to make the actual work go a bit faster. Perhaps draining the oil and removing the covers as well.
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Old 09-20-2007, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RWebb View Post
avoid using Loctite - if you need it then something is wrong
If the studs come out with the nuts (9 of mine did my 1st valve adjustment), wouldn't loctite be a good thing to use to get them to stay put next time? Whoever did it before appears to have just used said studs as bolts, judging from the corrosion holding the nut onto the stud. Or else the PO never adjusted the valves. Weren't off by too much though. Anyhow, I used loctite to glue 'em back in.


Jasonmx5:
My 1st adjustment took 9ish hours. My second adjustment 1 week later was 4 hours. The 2nd one actually got it right.
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Old 09-20-2007, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burgermeister View Post
My 1st adjustment took 9ish hours. My second adjustment 1 week later was 4 hours. The 2nd one actually got it right.
9ish hours! E-gads. I kind laugh and kind of cry. I hope it doesn't take that long. I laugh because I remember doing a timing belt on my Miata, that took about 8 hours the first time in. I replaced the water pump and front crank seal at the same time. Got everything put back together, started it up and oil leaked everywhere! Well the crank seal didn't seat right and tore itself to bits. And it figures that it was the farthest thing in. Second time, it only took me about 2 and a half hours (plus overnight shipping for a new seal and proper install tool ).

I cry because my wife hates when I work on the car. We have 2 young children (22 months and 1 month) and she gets steamed when I spend time wrenching . I tell her "at least I'm not at the pub!"

Quick question. Using the backside method, is it easier if the feeler gauges are bent? I have a set that has a bend about 1 inch from the end of the gauge. Will these make the backside method easier? I plan on using the backside method to do an initial feel and the tool, which I've already bought for final adjustments as necessary.
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Last edited by jasonmx5; 09-20-2007 at 12:28 PM.. Reason: Added question to comment.
Old 09-20-2007, 11:18 AM
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Backside Method, flat feel gages - read tech article.

A spray washer would be nice, use it before and after.

EDIT:
5 mm, 8mm, 10mm (typical mini-set) of allen wrench socket fittings

Large torque wrench (check head studs) (23 - 25lbs) and smaller (6lb) torque wrench for the valve cover nuts and 18lbs (5mm) I think for rocker arm check.
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Last edited by kach22i; 09-20-2007 at 12:52 PM..
Old 09-20-2007, 12:37 PM
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Don't forget the oil! Hey, seriously, I have one little suggestion: since the engine needs to be stone cold(as in leave it overnight), make sure the car is prepositioned in the place you will actually do the work as you don't want to run it at all on the big day.

Old 09-20-2007, 01:40 PM
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