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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: WASHINGTON STATE
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Remove Ac
Just picked up a 78 SC and want to remove all of the AC stuff.
Anything I hould be aware of? I have no experience with AC as all of my previous earlier 911s have been AC free. Thanks. |
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THE IRONMAN
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Good thing to do if the system is full of gaz is to have it emptyed by a good AC shop to help the ozone layer a bit....after this...nothing to be aware of...
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1984 911 CARRERA RUBY RED TARGA SW CHIPPED-BURSCH CATBYPASS MONTY FREE FLOW EXHAUST <IN GAS WE TRUST> |
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+1 on evacuating the freon. You might want to carefully check the release valve first (with suitable protection of course). If it hasn't been used in awhile, it's probably stone empty.
Pull out everything you can see, including the blower motor in the smuggler's boot, lines under the car, and condenser and fan in the front trunk. You'll need to make a couple of blockoff plates from sheet metal for the holes between the smuggler's boot and cabin, and the hole from the front condenser fan in the front. Use the existing holes\screws to attach them. Best would be to remove the compressor mount as well, but that will probably have to wait for the engine to come out. Good luck and look forward to much easier valve adjusts! ianc
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BMW 135i. Nice. Fast. But no 911... "I will tell you there is a big difference between driving money and driving blood, sweat and tears." - PorscheGuy79 |
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Thanks for the inout guys.
The system is empty. I have started in the engine compartment but was not sure where the lines ran. I will get the car up off the floor and have a look under her tonight. Looks like I should be able to loose a few pounds here. Cheers. |
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THE IRONMAN
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You can remove the compressor mount with the engine in situ...I've done it...
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1984 911 CARRERA RUBY RED TARGA SW CHIPPED-BURSCH CATBYPASS MONTY FREE FLOW EXHAUST <IN GAS WE TRUST> |
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Compressor mount removal was easy ... once the muffler was off. The muffler - not so much.
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'88 Coupe Lagoon Green "D'ouh!" "Marge - it takes two to lie. One to lie, and one to listen" "We must not allow a Mineshaft Gap!" |
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abides.
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Removing the rear wheels was helpful on mine. There were some very difficult to reach clamps hiding behind them. The hoses took a lot of pulling and wiggling to get them out of the engine compartment as well as around the windshield washer reservoir.
I'm still trying to figure out if I can remove the smugglers box evaporator and retain the fan... I like using it on hot days.
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Graham 1984 Carrera Targa |
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It should all come out without too much trouble. I was able to take mine out without doing any cutting, but I have a suggestion. I still have all my parts, including hoses, in boxes. I was thinking just recently that it doesn't need to take up that much room. I can't imagine ever reinstalling that stuff, but I've kept it because it is valuable to someone who wants to install A/C in a 911. But....they certainly wouldn't want 25 year-old non-barrier hose. So....next time I deal with that box of hoses, I'm going to cut the ends off and toss the hose. The old ends can be reused, once, but the hoses are just taking up useless space. Knowing this up front could speed removal.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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Thanks again all.
Superman, did you have to do something with the holes where the hoses run into the engine compartment? What about any other holes. |
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Quote:
Makes the job a LOT easier. |
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Quote:
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John Original owner '81 911SC blackmetallic coupe. Terbatrol, SSI, M+K Gen 4, SC+ cams, A/C delete, console delete, heater backdate, 7 & 8 x 16 Fuchs with polished rims, Turbo tie rods, tensioner update, Rennline engine mount bar, Mainely Custom sump plate, new top-end, corner balance. |
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MBruns for President
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So - any other tips besides removing the rear wheels? I am about to start on this adventure (although replacing with new hoses)
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Current Whip: - 2003 996 Twin Turbo - 39K miles - Lapis Blue/Grey Past: 1974 IROC (3.6) , 1987 Cabriolet (3.4) , 1990 C2 Targa, 1989 S2 |
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Keep them tips a comin
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I removed the first 50% of my AC no prob, I don't have any mechanic experience and even I could figure out the unscrewing things process. I'm about to go out to the garage and start pulling stuff from the smugglers box and it didn't look too scary last night when I was getting ready. I pulled my center console inside and have those switch wires I want to get out of there.
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Quote:
Ended up cutting the driver's side hose to make it easier to pull it out through the engine compartment. Passenger side was easy for some reason. Driver's fender area was a pain as well.
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'84 911, some sort of red color '05 Subaru WRX wagon |
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Quote:
Nemas problemas.
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Track day car: 911 3.2 915 Black 1984 Daily driver: 911 3.2 G50 Blue metallic 1987 Winter car: Volvo XC90 2003 |
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I did a complete removal about 1 year ago. And I'm glad I did.
Keep all the hardware. Good idea about keeping the hoses regarding measurement for someone wanting to go R134. There are at least 50 sheet metal fasteners used to hold hose brackets to underside of car. They should be replaced back into the holes including the small rubber washer to prevent water infiltration. The two large holes at each front corner of the engine compartment should also be filled and caulked water tight. These are the two holes for the 1 inch diameter hoses. I fashioned from an old sponge two plugs to fill up the holes. I then covered the sponge plugs with duct tape and pressed them into the holes from underneath the car. Then I used clear silicone caulk to hold them in place and form a watertight seal. Worked well. Front fan duct must be covered and sealed. I used sheet metal cut from the pattern made from copying fan mounting base including the 4 screw holes. Covered the fabricated metal plate with duct tape and sealed with silicone clear caulk. The front inlet port for the fan needs to be filled with a fabricated plate to prevent water from flooding your trunk. I used cardboard covered with two layers of duct tape to waterproof and fitted/caulked into place from the inside of the trunk. It would be better to fab out of sheet metal, but I didn't want to drill any holes in the body of the car. Works good so far. To remove the pain in the ass compressor bracket you have to remove muffler. Also as mentioned before bracket is alos attached under fuel injector rail parallel to cyl 4, 5, 6. Tricky. I pulled everything from smuggler's box. Also the dryer from driver side wheel well. You need to fill dryer mounting holes as well. I used body plugs available from most auto parts stores. One other thing. I fitted a sheet metal plate to cover the 1 by 4 inch void left by removing the compressor. This will keep dry dirt and road sand from entering the topside of the engine. Again, I used sheet metal, and used the existing engine tin fastener to hold in place.
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1987 Carrera 3.2 |
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Just curious; but has anynone weighed all the material they've removed to see what the savings are?
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Henri '87 Carrera coupe: Venetian blue |
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I removed mine a few years ago and put everything in a large Rubbermaid container and I remember the weight being around 85lbs or so and that includes the heavy conpressor mountings and everything fromt and rear. I know that the Carreras have lighter compressor mounting plates.
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Gone but not forgotten - 1980 Porsche 911SC w/ -22mm/28mm Torsion Bars | Custom Valved Bilsteins | 22mm/21mm Carrera Sway Bars | Elephant Poly/Bronze Bushings | Carrera Brakes | AJ-USA Brake Cooling | Carrera Oil Cooler w/ Fan | Elephant Strut Brace | Oh, and no ABS or PSM or A/C |
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