Home alignment numbers
 

Ive read some of the previous post of using strings and levels to do a home alignment. Ive read just enough to get the measurements, but not sure what they should be.

Here is what I have.

Camber on driver front wheel 3/8" neg
Camber on Pass front wheel 1/4" neg

Camber on driver rear wheel 3/8" neg
Camber on Pass rear wheel 1/4" neg

Front tow 0"
rear tow in 1/8"

I have 15" wheels and took the measurements on the edge of the rim, 16" apart.

I'm actually suprized that the measurements are fairly close as I have replaced the torsion bars and all the bushings and everything has been apart. I also lowered the car at this time.

This is for my 73 which is just driven on the street. Does anyone have some suggestions on what I should shoot for? Is this close enough?

Thanks.

On the street maybe a fudge of tow in would be good..I hear on the track some are towed out...
You will have to redo your corner weights if you changed everything 1st, b4 wheel alignment

Try 1/16" toe in in front if all the suspension bushings are in good shape and tight.
If the A-arm rubber bushings and tie rods are a little worn or questionable than 1/8" toe in may be better.

The idea is the slight toe in at rest will straighten out to around zero from the rolling resistance of the tires while moving, and more so while braking.

Do not use the brakes to stop the car before measuring toe, just roll to a stop.

It's also true that most race drivers prefer slight toe out in the front to help turn in.
I remember AJ Foyt liked a little more front toe out than other drivers in the 962.

To complicate things further, as your speed increases causing the front end to lift up slightly due to aerodynamic forces, toe in will automatically increase due to the changes in suspension geometry.

To verify, check toe at rest, then place a floor jack under the front bumper to raise it 1" and see how much toe has increased.

This might surprise those who like making assumptions.

Another reason I'm glad to have a DP 935 front spoiler with center oil cooler on mine...
I'm sure with it's built in splitter it cuts down on front end lift at speed.

I think you still need to redo your corner ballance ( I am positive )

All the bushings are new, I'll try and set the front for a little tow in. How about the camber? Is what I have close enough or should I try to get the front and back the same. It's odd that I ended up with the same on each side.

I don't have any way to corner balance at this time and I'm not sure who does this in St. Louis. I'm setting at 24" to the fender lips in the rear and 24 3/8" in the front.

Measure the camber again with the weight of a person in the driver seat. See if it changes. You can do that with a plum line and tape measure to the top and bottom rim edges. Gravity doesn't lie.

Setting toe will not cause any change in corner balance.

You can do a rough check of corner balance by supporting the car from one end in the center and measuring the distance from the torsion bar covers to the ground at the other end.
Check from the tops of the fender lips to the ground on each side too, but that may not be as accurate.
Do it all on level ground, and preferably with the weight of a driver in the seat if thats how you drive most of the time.
Then do the same thing from the other end of the car.
It's not a real accurate way of doing it but you can do this yourself without the 4 sets of scales.