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				removing front fenders
			 
			I have searched a few different times and not found what I was looking for so I thought I would ask I am planning on replacing my front fenders and have not found anything covering the removal and replacement procedure. anybody have any links or advice? thanks a million 
				__________________ 1975 911s, 3.2l and 915 transmission front oil cooler RUF replica bumper ducktail and SC rear flares SW chip ssi's m&k 2 in 1 out sc front calipers PF 97 pads fuchs 16 x 7 and 8 225/ 245 toyo ra-1s 22/29 torsion bars 25mm Charlie Bars Neatrix bushings lowered and corner balanced DAS bolt in roll bar kirkey seat 5 point harnesses. http://www.hairydoggrrrage.com/ | ||
|  12-30-2007, 06:10 AM | 
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| Registered | 
			I can't give you a complete answer, but be aware that there are two hex head bolts inside the door jamb (5 or 5.5MM - I can't remember) that also have to be removed in addition to the bolts inside the trunk. Recommend using a ball-head hex wrench to get these out. I'll see if I can find a picture. There was a thread on replacing the cowl seals not too long ago. Try this: Removing front fender 78SC what tool?? 
				__________________ Steve My '85 911 Targa ** Hand painted center caps for sale here RIP Warren PCA & Rennlist member | ||
|  12-30-2007, 06:55 AM | 
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| just me | 
			thanks I have that type of wrench so that shouldn't be a problem. are there only bolts in the trunk that have to be removed? or are there more inside the wheel well. and do I need to remove the bumper? 
				__________________ 1975 911s, 3.2l and 915 transmission front oil cooler RUF replica bumper ducktail and SC rear flares SW chip ssi's m&k 2 in 1 out sc front calipers PF 97 pads fuchs 16 x 7 and 8 225/ 245 toyo ra-1s 22/29 torsion bars 25mm Charlie Bars Neatrix bushings lowered and corner balanced DAS bolt in roll bar kirkey seat 5 point harnesses. http://www.hairydoggrrrage.com/ | ||
|  12-30-2007, 07:10 AM | 
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| Evolved Join Date: Jan 2007 
					Posts: 3,338
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			There are a series of bolts inside the wheel well (rear, vertical) as well.  Not sure if your bumper will need to come off (I doubt it). 
				__________________ Don't fear the reaper. | ||
|  12-30-2007, 07:26 AM | 
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| Registered Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Denver 
					Posts: 9,734
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			It's usually easier to pull the bumper as well so you can get to the screws that attach the bumper smile to the fenders.  Inside the headlite buckets, there are bolts that hold the fender to a bracket. In the lf fender, you have to remove the bolts for the washer bottle and pull the expansion tank off as well. The rocker panels need to come off in order to work the fender away from the body. The gas filler neck needs to come out and the rubber cup that it goes through needs to come out. You need to either drop your antenna or pull the wire out of the body. Probably more but I'll have to think about it. | ||
|  12-30-2007, 07:41 AM | 
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| just me | 
			cool rocker panels are off already. never liked the look of them. pulling the bumper is not too difficult? need to do a quick search on that 
				__________________ 1975 911s, 3.2l and 915 transmission front oil cooler RUF replica bumper ducktail and SC rear flares SW chip ssi's m&k 2 in 1 out sc front calipers PF 97 pads fuchs 16 x 7 and 8 225/ 245 toyo ra-1s 22/29 torsion bars 25mm Charlie Bars Neatrix bushings lowered and corner balanced DAS bolt in roll bar kirkey seat 5 point harnesses. http://www.hairydoggrrrage.com/ | ||
|  12-30-2007, 07:46 AM | 
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| Slumlord Join Date: May 2001 Location: Canada 
					Posts: 4,983
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			That job is a complete pain in the @ss. The bolts behind the door are covered in a thick goop that has to be removed. Take the wheels off, heat the goop with a heat gun and then cut it away with a knife. The 5 mm bolts at the dash level are also hard to remove, they can be very tight and the ball end hex driver will slip out. Good luck, I hate removing fenders.. | ||
|  12-30-2007, 07:55 AM | 
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| just me | 
			oh no! fortunately I have put aside plenty of time. what kind of goop? like a rust sealant? do I need to re-goop it after wards? 
				__________________ 1975 911s, 3.2l and 915 transmission front oil cooler RUF replica bumper ducktail and SC rear flares SW chip ssi's m&k 2 in 1 out sc front calipers PF 97 pads fuchs 16 x 7 and 8 225/ 245 toyo ra-1s 22/29 torsion bars 25mm Charlie Bars Neatrix bushings lowered and corner balanced DAS bolt in roll bar kirkey seat 5 point harnesses. http://www.hairydoggrrrage.com/ | ||
|  12-30-2007, 07:59 AM | 
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| Registered Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Greater PDX, OR 
					Posts: 90
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			the goop seems to be factory coating and is not really sticky, just tough. on the right front fender there is one bolt at the top behind the oil lines. you will need to loosen the oil line clamps to get to this bolt. you may need a mirror to locate it.  for the 2 allen bolts just below the windshield, i used a 5mm allen screwdriver tip in a 1/4 inch socket with a universal joint with extensions to get it out. getting it back in is a real pita. nothing hard, just use patience to avoid creating additional work. if you pull the bumper, try to record all wire connections, especially the ones inside the turn signal housing to make reinstallation easy. 
				__________________ Jeff '82SC Pacific Blue '02 C4S Silver (Gone but fondly remembered) '11 GTS Amethyst | ||
|  12-30-2007, 09:33 AM | 
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| Registered Join Date: Sep 2004 
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				 | Quote: 
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|  12-30-2007, 10:44 AM | 
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| Registered Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Cornwall-on-Hudson, New York, USA 
					Posts: 4,499
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			Seemed pretty easy to me, and I'm about to do it again--the dreaded Rust Monster.
		 
				__________________ Stephan Wilkinson '83 911SC Gold-Plated Porsche '04 replacement Boxster | ||
|  12-30-2007, 02:00 PM | 
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| just me | 
			so is it necessary to melt the goop in the left front fender well? I plan to take plenty of pictures as I take things apart that usually simplifies the re installation process are the wires different colors? or should I label them as well? 
				__________________ 1975 911s, 3.2l and 915 transmission front oil cooler RUF replica bumper ducktail and SC rear flares SW chip ssi's m&k 2 in 1 out sc front calipers PF 97 pads fuchs 16 x 7 and 8 225/ 245 toyo ra-1s 22/29 torsion bars 25mm Charlie Bars Neatrix bushings lowered and corner balanced DAS bolt in roll bar kirkey seat 5 point harnesses. http://www.hairydoggrrrage.com/ | ||
|  12-30-2007, 08:45 PM | 
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| Slumlord Join Date: May 2001 Location: Canada 
					Posts: 4,983
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			You don't need to melt it, you need to soften it.
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|  12-31-2007, 04:59 AM | 
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| Registered Join Date: Sep 2004 
					Posts: 3,650
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			I generally don't do anything with the undercoating on the lower 3 or 4 bolts.  I just apply decent pressure on the ratchet while attempting to remove the bolts and the ratchet eventually catches the bolt head through the undercoating. The top bolts on the other hand (top of the fender in the curve) generally require scraping off some undercoating around the bolt head in order to get the socket to fit the bolt. Those bolts are a PIA. | ||
|  12-31-2007, 05:13 AM | 
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| Registered Join Date: May 2001 Location: Peoples Republic of Long Beach, NY 
					Posts: 21,140
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			hey Paul how did you make out? did you use dum dum or the factory goop between the fenders and tub? how did the front spoiler install go? post some pics 
				__________________ Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 | ||
|  03-15-2008, 02:54 PM | 
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| just me | 
			haven't done the swap yet. waiting to find a good paint shop out here and get an estimate on painting the car. once I know when I will get the paint done then I will swap the fenders out. I have collected all the factory parts to do the job apart from the plastic dog bone spacers for the top of the chin spoiler. 
				__________________ 1975 911s, 3.2l and 915 transmission front oil cooler RUF replica bumper ducktail and SC rear flares SW chip ssi's m&k 2 in 1 out sc front calipers PF 97 pads fuchs 16 x 7 and 8 225/ 245 toyo ra-1s 22/29 torsion bars 25mm Charlie Bars Neatrix bushings lowered and corner balanced DAS bolt in roll bar kirkey seat 5 point harnesses. http://www.hairydoggrrrage.com/ | ||
|  03-15-2008, 07:35 PM | 
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| Registered Join Date: May 2001 Location: Peoples Republic of Long Beach, NY 
					Posts: 21,140
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			you're the type that could do a paint job.  If they're throwing around big numbers maybe give it a second thought? 
				__________________ Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 | ||
|  03-15-2008, 07:58 PM | 
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| just me | 
			with no garage to work in I think that would be a step too far  I have to work al fresco 
				__________________ 1975 911s, 3.2l and 915 transmission front oil cooler RUF replica bumper ducktail and SC rear flares SW chip ssi's m&k 2 in 1 out sc front calipers PF 97 pads fuchs 16 x 7 and 8 225/ 245 toyo ra-1s 22/29 torsion bars 25mm Charlie Bars Neatrix bushings lowered and corner balanced DAS bolt in roll bar kirkey seat 5 point harnesses. http://www.hairydoggrrrage.com/ | ||
|  03-15-2008, 08:01 PM | 
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| Registered Join Date: May 2001 Location: Peoples Republic of Long Beach, NY 
					Posts: 21,140
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				__________________ Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 | ||
|  03-15-2008, 08:18 PM | 
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| just me | 
			yup.... so if you know a good paint shop I am all ears 
				__________________ 1975 911s, 3.2l and 915 transmission front oil cooler RUF replica bumper ducktail and SC rear flares SW chip ssi's m&k 2 in 1 out sc front calipers PF 97 pads fuchs 16 x 7 and 8 225/ 245 toyo ra-1s 22/29 torsion bars 25mm Charlie Bars Neatrix bushings lowered and corner balanced DAS bolt in roll bar kirkey seat 5 point harnesses. http://www.hairydoggrrrage.com/ | ||
|  03-15-2008, 08:20 PM | 
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