can't split tranny on engine drop 71 2.2
 

Hi folks. I have my engine partially dropped and am struggling to get it out the last few inches. It seems as if maybe the clutch is stuck to the shaft. Any tips? It moves very freely with about a 1/2 an inch of clearance. I'm puling as hard as I can (i'm pulling the whole car on the jackstands) and it just won't seperate. I've double and triple checked for snags and it's free. It is VERY loose at the case joint (I can see the pressure plate in the split) I've tried various different angles and balance points to no avail. It sees like it's the shaft hanging onto the clutch. it pivots in all directions freely but won't budge past a certain point. Any bright ideas? I could just bolt them back up and drop the whole package but I'm afraid then I'll never get them apart. Note that this is a 2.2 and a 901 so there is the old style clutch release arm.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Just dorp the whole thing together and figure it. If you're this far you may as well remove the cv bolts and lower away.

There's something in there you have to spin ~90 degrees to disconnect. The release bearing and release arm? Much easier to do with the enging and tranny on the ground.

Are you sure its not a type 911 transmission?

1970 would usually have a 911 instead of a 901.

In that case you need to drop the engine and transmission, then disengage the clutch fork from the throw out bearing.

yes, it's pull type clutch and needs a rotation of the TO bearing holder to let go.

did you start this w/o a manual to go by?

of course... I bought a case of coors some vice grips and a roll of duct tape. I love when people make a first assumption that you are stupid...

yes I have read everything and have had the advice of a long time mechanic.

Unfortunately neither of us were familiar with the vagueries of the 911 (not 901) transmission which is rarely docuented. I saw nothing about rotating the TO bearing 90 degrees anywhere.

Is the prefered method to drop the whole package and then seperate or to somehow perform the rotation and then seperate. (I would prefer to leave tranny in car) also if anyone has a tip on how to do that rotation I'd be much obliged.

Thanks for all of your help.

OK.

Apparently both you and your long time mechanic cant read very well.

The Haynes, Clymer, and of course the factory manuals all mention the method to separate the 1970 engine and transmission. Nothing is secret

Milt gives sage advice....perhaps you could use a bit of decorum in your replies.

separating a 911 trannie and motor
 

This is very possible...I do it all the time....with my 71 race car with a 911 trannie. However, you need mirrors and small hands. Use a motorcycle jack under the engine to keep it level, and get it as low as possible. You will need to alternate crawling into the engine compartment from above, and laying under the trannie. Disconnect the clutch cable from the fork so that the fork is loose. The fork on the trannie needs to get disengaged from the throwout bearing. If you can figure out the angle of the shaft of the throwout bearing, you will need to rotate the throwout bearing 90 degrees to it. There are flat spots on opposite sides of the throwout bearing that will allow the clutch fork...in the correct orientation to slide off. You do this by looking up through the fork opening and using a mirror down through the opening in the top /side of the bellhousing. You will need to use a long screwdriver to "work the bearing" around till it is 90 degrees to the fork and the fork will slip off. The manual won't tell you that this is possible, in fact most manuals talk about having to loosen the three rivets on the outer edge of the clutch plate.

This is easy to do if someone has shown you what to look for and how to "feel" for the 90 degree orientation....or lacking that, to have the package on the garage floor where you can crawl around it. It is however possible to do it yourself first time ...just be patient.

"of course... I bought a case of coors some vice grips and a roll of duct tape."

Did you try spraying WD40 on it, let it soak in and then pulling?

I didn't assume it, but now I'm pretty sure of it.

I apologize. Needless to say I was on a short fuse today. The last thing I want to do is imply in any way that I don't value the input of this community on every level. Sometimes knowledge comes the hard way and I value all the input tremendously.

The solution was indeed in the Haynes manual. So evidently I cannot read. Funnily enough, I rarely use Haynes since it's information tends to be poor. I couldn't find the information anywhere in the factory manual. The one caveat, where it does exist in the manual is in the transmission sections. Not the engine drop sections so it does require a bit of hunting. I couldn't find it in any engine drop section. And I did read all of these thoroughly.

At any rate, the motor and trans is out. I got a good work out trying to pull them apart. Nothing ventured nothing gained. Thanks to everyone who chimed in. I'll post the procedure for separating the trans when I do it so other don't suffer the same fate. Again my apologies to Milt for the testy reply.

I'm glad you were able to tak eit apart. The Type911 tranny in the '70-'71 isn't the best known nor favored but it does a good job. Make syre you lube the clutch pivot ball when you put it back together.

with the trans still tightly bolted to the engine, and out of the car, pull the fork back away from the TO bearing and through the hole on top of the bellhousing, use a screwdriver to turn the bearing 90°. don't go loosening the pressure plate screws.

Sometimes. And sometimes a smart ass. However, I wasn't trying to be as terse as it sounded. I was just wondering if they had a manual to refer to. A lot of times I think, "I don't need no stinking book" and it bites me.

Thanks Milt. Nothing like struggling with a motor to make me testy. At any rate, I had never dropped a motor and trans before and it was VERY easy. Much easier than the motors I've dropped when splitting in the car. Here's the success pic.

And no... that is not my long time mechanic in the picture.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1205794325.jpg

When you put it all back together be sure to replace the tension spring that keeps the clutch fork in position. It is a cheap part that can come back to haunt you after a few shifts. Ask me how I know. :(

There is a technique involved in putting them back together as well...;)