Need advice on replacing an intake gasket

[oak]

On my SC, I found that the #2 intake gasket is leaking. I thought that I could "just" loosen the boot clamp and the two 12 mm nuts and be done - but I am having problems taking the aluminum runner out. Seems to be no "wiggle room to do the job.
Is this possible?
Do I have to cut the boot in half?
Dare I try and remove the two studs - without braking them off?
Do I have to do a partial drop and then remove the whole CIS air box assembly?
Thanks for your help!

[sparkle84]

I just finished refurbishing my CIS & getting everything back on & lined up is a real PITA. And my engine is out! I'd cut the boot & also remove #1 runner which will help with access. There's no wiggle room because there's 2 brackets in the back which hold the airbox in place. The bottom of the 1 on the left attaches to the rearmost stud which holds the throttle linkage bracket. You'd have to remove the blower motor to access it. If you remove that nut you'll be able to get some upward movement of the airbox which should help. The right one's pretty much impossible to get at with the engine in. Might get it off but won't be able to get it back on. Good Luck!

If you have the time & motivation to do a partial or full drop I'd replace all the boots & gaskets as well as R/R the 3 common oil leak areas at the right rear. Also replace the vac lines back there & check all the electrical connections.

PS: If you put your location in your profile someone might be right down the street who could help you out.

Good Luck again.

Steve

[oak]

Thanks for the reply - I removed #1 runner and then #2 was much easier to remove. I did a top end rebuild but did not know what to torque the intake gaskets at - Wayne's book was good but it did mention the that the torque should be about 18 lbs and how critical this is for the running of the engine. I must have crushed that one gasket. I had a very difficult time adjusting the air/fuel ratio because of the leak. Thank God the leak was at #2 and not at an impossible location. We shall see how "easy" it is to put things back together.
-Ray

[Gunter]

Of course, the best way to work on the CIS is when the engine is out.
The intake gaskets can be a source of vacuum leaks.
To prevent the new rubber boots from resisting the proper location/seating of the intake runners on the heads, I install the rubber boots with a little Vaseline (So they slide easy on the runners) and leave the clamps just snug making sure that the clamp-bolts are accessable to a screwdriver once the whole CIS is installed on top of the engine.
Unlike others, I use anti-seize on both sides of the gaskets to prevent future sticking and premature deterioration.
Once the whole CIS is in place, I torque the bolts 18 ft-lbs and then tighten the boot-clamps.