Rubber Brake line removal

I'm trying to replace the front rubber brake lines and am having a hell of a time getting the nuts to break free. They appear to be original lines (30 years old) and I have sprayed them with every penetrating oil ever made, for three days now. I was able to remove the end closest to the wheel but the ones in back of the struts just will not budge!

I have the proper flare nut wrenches and have even tried the friendly pursader (hammer) with no luck.

Any tips or tricks?

Thanks
-Dan
'70 911T

Dan,

When I replaced mine I had to cut them off with a dremel tool. Wasn't easy or fun, but it worked!

Good luck!
BK

Same here. Just did my fronts last weekend and had to resort to a Dremel with a cut-off wheel mounted to free the fitting at the strut.

Mark H
1970 911E coupe

Aw Man!
I'm having the same problem with mine! I got the rear, passenger side off, but the rear, driver side is giving me fits! It's up in a small space about the size of my fist. I tried putting a crow's foot on an extension. I can get in there to get a good bite on it, but I can't get it to move - don't want to force it too much. I want to replace the rubber hoses with stainless steel. Found out the rubber hoses have a male end & a female end, while the stainless lines have female on both ends. I looked everywhere to find a double-ended male fitting, but couldn't find any. Finally I used Warren's suggestion about getting a short hard brake line & bending it in a loop to make a double ended male fitting. Worked great on the one I've been able to replace sofar. GOOD LUCK!!!

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Marv Evans
'72 911E

Whoo boy!
I'm planning on replacing my lines soon, is this what I'm going to be facing? I just finished grinding and chiseling off all the rusty bolts on my cat so I could install a test pipe.
I'm sick of that damn grinder!
If a grinder is the main tool you need to work on an old Porsche, why do I have thousands of dollars invested in *real* tools? Arrgghh!

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Doug
'81 SC Coupe (aka: "Blue Bomber")
Canada West Region PCA
members.home.net/zielke/911SC.htm

Doug:
You might be luckier than we are. Dan's is a '70 & the one I changing the lines on is my '67 912. Yours is a little newer. But- you might start with the penetrating oil now.

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Marv Evans
'72 911E

Thanks Marv...that, and a prayer to the Porsche Gods!

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Doug
'81 SC Coupe (aka: "Blue Bomber")
Canada West Region PCA
members.home.net/zielke/911SC.htm

Doug...my car is more of your vintage and I replaced mine recently with the SS braided ones. I had no problems getting the old ones off. But then again...I do live in the "rust free dry climate" state of Colorado.

Good Luck.
Nick.

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_ _ __ _ _
Nick Shumaker
1982 911SC Coupe
nickshu@yahoo.com
PCA -- Rocky Mtn. Region

Liquid Wrench and lots of heat from a small propane torch worked on everything on my rusty '66....

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Clay McGuill '66 912, '97 Jeep Cherokee www.geocities.com/the912guy

When I was trying to remove my brake lines my dad suggested Tabassco sauce.I told him he was crazy but did it just to prove him wrong.The next day I tried them after they had marinated overnight and guess what they came off.My dad used to be a commercial fisherman and apparently this stuff is used quite a bit on old rusty bolts on the boats and it seems to work.I now keep a bottle in the toolbox for overnight soaking on tough nuts and bolts.


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Grant 75 911s targa

Tabasco Sauce!
Now I think we have heard everything.
(What the hell...I'm gonna try it.)

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Doug
'81 SC Coupe (aka: "Blue Bomber")
Canada West Region PCA
members.home.net/zielke/911SC.htm

Man, that's almost as weird as using Coke and aluminum foil to clean up old chrome.

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Clay McGuill '66 912, '97 Jeep Cherokee www.geocities.com/the912guy

duck slime works. a small torch works better though. don't heat the steel line's fitting, only the one on the rubber hose. a good snug fitting fitting wrench is required for really tight ones.

I did this job last spring on my '68. I thought that it would be a few hours and it turned into 2 weekends. If you are going to use a torch to get the old rubber lines off, BE CAREFUL! When the lines are heated really hot, the rubber explodes of the metal fitting like a firecracker, no joke!
After busting my knuckles for a weekend, I cut the lines off and borrowed a Bubble-Flare-Kit from my mechanic and re-flared the ends of the lines. As mentioned above, the stainless kit that I purchased (from Pelican) had all female ends and one of the rear lines requires a male and female end. You have to make a piece of hard line to adapt the female to female. My car is Canadian, so the corrosion is probably worse than most. The brake feel with the stainless lines made all the effort worth while.
Good Luck! I wish that I had known about the Tobasco Sauce:O

Adam White
68 912 Coupe.

Well I spent the better part of Friday night cutting the rubber line off only to have cut just a little too close to the hard brake line...Damn! And I had a friend help on the other side which resulted in breaking the nut off the hard brake line there!

I ended up just replacing both hard brake lines the next morning. Once I put everything back together, I found that one of the bleeder screws was seeping fluid when closed. After swapping bleeder screws I determined that the caliper surface internally must be gouged allowing seepage. Our temporary fix was to solder the bleeder screw and use teflon tape to seal the leak.
I had to make a car show for Sunday for seeded a quick fix.

Next step is to either replace the caliper or have it machined to correct the leak...any thoughts?

--Dan