I don't see that you have checked your control pressures yet.

Along w/ the bad vacuum advance, the crushed decel valve and the bad AAR, it may simply be that your WUR is slightly off and you have compensated by adjusting your mixture to get the best running condition when warm, which may not be quite right for cold. You may find it will be great for some days and not for others.

I am curious about that VW part. Can you post more info?

Finally I didn't see an answer to the question if you have been using both adjustment screws to set your mixture.

Yes I have been using both adjustment screws.. I have it so it runs pretty well. but agin not quite right.
The WUR is new now. I have someone that offered to sell me an advance for 110$ (a little high I think), but hey if noone else has one he can charge as much as he wants...
Now If I can just get a hold of a working AAR I will be golden. For now I believe what I have works well.

Here is a pic.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1207787309.jpg


Up is closed, down is open. A little air will get past it but it will work untill I can get the real thing, after all it was free!

Oh and the Valve on my Tundra will work as well same size hose connections. but they are 79 bux at the dealer!

Chris

well, after much fussing I have gotten my AAR to work!! it was apparently stuck from minute amounts of junk. Solved that one. My Bentley manual showed today and I will be checking pressures on saturday.

SO at this point we have the following
NEW WUR
Working AAR
Refreshed/cleaned Diz (with a bad retard)
New O2 sensor

Still starts really hard, wont hold idle when cold I have to hold my foot on the gas or else It will drop and start to hunt but when it drops rpms it just stalls untill it gets warm- then it hunts when it is warm but remains running.

CP

I don't recall seeing control pressures yet. Even though you have a new WUR it could still be off (too high). And you have made the mix too rich to compensate, causing the hunting.

Another thought: possibly a leaking CSV.

BTW good work so far!

Paul, when you say leaking CSV do you mean fuel or air? and have you ever taken one out while in the car? it is possible that this is my Cold start issue?? good thought.


Chris

CSV leaking would be fuel; it'll drip slightly and richen the mixture.
You have a new WUR.
If you have the other WUR, make it adjustable:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=272502&highlight=adjust able+wur

It's not that hard to do and it'll help with adjusting the pressure once you get the tester.

That's what I did with my spare WUR as well as carefully taking it apart for inspecting and cleaning. Put a tiny dab of grease on the top of the pin inside.

Gunter,

I'm having a little trouble reading the packages on Tripster's thread. What size drill/tap/bolt did either of you use? Looks like 5 or 6 mm.

Have you found that you can hold the bolt securely so it doesn't rotate during adjustment?

By bolt you mean plug? :)
5 mm is harder to find than 6 mm; both would do.
It doesn't have to be metric; an equivalent SAE size like 3/16 NF would work too as long as it is fine thread.
Some people drill a small hole for a dowel pin on the side of the plug to prevent it from turning during adjustments.
I didn't dowel because I don't see how the much smaller adjustment screw can rotate the larger diameter of the plug. Go ahead and dowel if you like.

I recommend inspecting/cleaning the inside of the WUR at any rate.
When the drilling/tapping is done and you're ready for adjusting the pressure, use a sharp needle and make a circular mark on the housing inside the plug-hole so you have a permanent mark showing the original position of the plug.

When you "knock" the plug down just a tiny bit (For rich) you can control the amount by watching the circular mark and also control the movement by leaving the nut slightly loose when knocking the top of the screw down.
I use a few drops of penetrating oil on the plug and grease on the screw-threads to make movements easy.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208277311.jpg

Thanks, Gunter.

The "bolt" I was referring to is the machine screw that Tripster inserted into the plug. He did this so he could put a wrench on it and keep it from rotating while moving the plug up or down. I noticed some others have used a threaded rod, referred to as "set screw or stud" in your posted pic.

If I can get the drift pin in the right location, I may do it. Most likely, however, I'll go w/ the scratched witness mark.

Ah so.........
Yes, I would recommend a long Allen set-screw (Or Allen socket head) because then one can use an Allen wrench to counter-hold the screw while turning the nut to move the plug upwards.

Just a threaded rod wouldn't be that good.

Any update on this?