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Alan L's Avatar
 
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supporting engine at removal

Has anyone got a homegrown gizmo they care to share that helps support the engine at removal. I have a heck of a time balancing it on a trolley jack - and live at the bottom of the world, so would prefer to make something rather than ship it. Worst part of getting the engine out (and in).
Thanks
Alan
Old 04-03-2008, 08:19 PM
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weld up something that is like the commercial one

or use an ATV jack

Really - it is far better to have 2 people there - if you drop the 500 lb. powertrain on your leg, it's nice to have a friend make that emergency call
Old 04-03-2008, 09:05 PM
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Have you got a pic of the commercial one - never seen one.
I use a block of wood, and hold my breath a long time.
But I have managed to install remove several times on my own. But there must be a better way. Tough on the nerves.
Alan
Old 04-03-2008, 09:08 PM
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My use of ropes on both sides of the engine helped me many many times. If it were not for the ropes, I probably slid the engine via misbalancing off the dolley many many many many times.

Cheers!
Old 04-03-2008, 09:21 PM
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But what do you balance it on?
Alan
Old 04-03-2008, 09:23 PM
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I use a nicely chiseled piece of wood. Started with a 2x6 and added and subtracted to get around the sump plate and shore up the sides. I fit it to the engine while the engine was still in the car. The 1st time I pulled it I marked the balance point on the side of the wood so I know next time where to put the jack. It is still shaky, but not as much as with no wood.

I have since bought an ATV/Cycle jack and will be using it for the 1st time to install the rebuilt mill. On the new engine I will be fabricating a jack point/tow hook, but that will not help with removal, just jacking the car up.

Best regards,

Michael
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Old 04-03-2008, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan L View Post
But what do you balance it on?
Alan
Simple sentence but not clear.

Is this Q to me?
What do you mean by "what do you balance it on"

Instead of guessing, I'll attempt to answer different ways (or more details):
1. I have a moving-dolley with a plywood nailed on top of it.
2. I have marked the center of the bottom of the dolley so that when I put the dolley on top of the jack, it is already centered.
3. With the dolley on the jack, I start raising the jack.
4. Once I have contact with the engine, I start loosening the bolts (front, rear, etc.) I am going to assume you already know how to disconnect everything.
5. The 2 engine bolts are the last ones I loosen.
6. I loosen them halfway.
7. I lower the jack.
8. I loosen more.
9. I lower more.
10. Once the bolts are out, I 'quickly' loop the rope through the bolt mounting holes. In other words, the rope replaces the bolts.
11. I lower more.
12. I lengthen the ropes.

Repeat 11 and 12 until the jack is fully lowered. I can then just 'roll' the engine as the dolley has wheels.

My method may be crude to some, but I am always a one-man show.

BTW, I also use rope when reinstalling.

Cheers!
Old 04-03-2008, 09:42 PM
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Alan, You can do it with a trolley jack but as you mentioned it's scary as h*ll. I think RWebb was referring to something like this:http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/PORS/POR_PORS_PTOOLS_pg1.htm

I found a relatively inexpensive transmission jack that works well. Wider stance than a trolley jack and the platform angle is adjustable side to side and front to back.

John
Old 04-03-2008, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cab83_750 View Post
1. I have a moving-dolley with a plywood nailed on top of it.
2. I have marked the center of the bottom of the dolley so that when I put the dolley on top of the jack, it is already centered.
3. With the dolley on the jack, I start raising the jack.


Cheers!
I may be thick (as a plank) but what would (wood) a moving dolley with plywood on top look like. May be some terminology issues here - we use some different words down under for the same things - but I can't picture it.
Sounds like we are all dealing with the same issue.
I had a look at the Pelican part. I'm sure it works - but I cant work out which bit goes where. Does the spigot bit go into the trolley jack mount (is it inverted in the pic). The thing I find difficult is the irregularity of the underside of motor and trying to find suitable points to balance it on.
The adjustable transmission jack sounds good - if I knew what I was looking for.
Just trying to find a simple solution to an annoying problem (I have 3 911's/930's so pulling engines is a reasonably regular affair.) Want to simplify it.
Thanks
Alan
Old 04-03-2008, 10:37 PM
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Alan,

I have the tool referenced above. You take the cup out of the floor jack, and the tool has a pin that fits snuggly into the jack. Here are two better pictures.



The upside down picture you can clearly see the pin at the top of the picture that fits into the floor jack. The right side up picture, the right side is what goes under the sump cover, and the left part goes around the large boss on the rear of the case. If you want some more pictures of it attached to my jack, I can take some this weekend.
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Old 04-04-2008, 12:08 AM
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Picture an inverted U made of construction lumber (2x4, 2x6, 2x10's etc.), essentially a moving dolly but taller to accommodate a floor jack under it. Install heavy duty caster wheels at the four corners. Make the platform a little narrower than the distance between the control arm pivot points. The heat exchangers will rest on the platform to provide L-R stability.

Make the fore-aft dimension of the platform long enough to balance the drivetrain (engine/gearbox); about 18" will do.

Position a floor jack under this rolling U-shaped carrier, then raise so it supports both the gearbox and engine. Once the drivetrain is free, lower the jack until the caster wheels support the weight. Remove floor jack, then roll the drivetrain out.

I understand the commercially-available jack adapter works well too.

Hope this helps,
Sherwood
Old 04-04-2008, 12:49 AM
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I had a big bit of 8mm or 10mm sheet steel lying around in my pile of junk. It's about 18" by 36" and I drilled a couple of holes through it and through the cup on the tolley jack and bolted them together with high tensile bolts. It was easy. I even separated the engine and gearbox while it was on the tolley/sheet steel setup, and wheeled the engine into the back of the Corolla wagon. An engineering shop should have something similar in their junk pile for free.
Old 04-04-2008, 01:45 AM
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here is what i did. i stole the parts (four caster wheels) off of a furniture dolly and made this. some scrap 2x4's, and a piece of cal-osha approved walkway planking (way overkill, but basically a 2x10). i do have the advantage of a low-profile floorjack.

when you lower (or raise) the motor, it drops down on the casters and you roll the motor out. it has done maybe 12 engine drops. works great!

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Old 04-04-2008, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cab83_750 View Post

10. Once the bolts are out, I 'quickly' loop the rope through the bolt mounting holes. In other words, the rope replaces the bolts.
11. I lower more.
12. I lengthen the ropes.

Repeat 11 and 12 until the jack is fully lowered. I can then just 'roll' the engine as the dolley has wheels.

My method may be crude to some, but I am always a one-man show.

BTW, I also use rope when reinstalling.




I do this also using 3/8 non stretch line. Nylon stretches and will not prevent tipping. The line goes through the mounting plate holes and tub holes. I'll give it 6-12" till it hits a knot. Repeat, repeat, repeat. Engine can't tip over.
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Old 04-04-2008, 08:17 AM
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Old 04-04-2008, 10:04 AM
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Don't know why you just wouldn't use one of these:

Craftsman Motorcycle/ATV Jack - $69.99

or you can get the fancy version:
Craftsman Professional Motorcycle/ATV Jack - $149.99

From $70 off the shelf, it seems completely logical to me, and a much more stable platform, too - I'm considering stopping and picking one up on the way home from work for that price.
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Old 04-04-2008, 11:28 AM
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OK guys, many thanks - plenty of ideas - all better than my block of wood perched on trolley jack. RWebb mentiuoned ATV jack - now I can see what they are like, this looks very promising - more stable than narrow trolley jack. I like the dolly idea now that I see it too. The Pelican bit is a bit clearer now too, and I guess I could make one of those without too much bother. It seems to have a narrow balance point sideways too tho, and I guess longitudinally it is at the perfect point.
Bill D - Hi. Still picking over the 911 - lots of useful little bits for the 930 - which has been a mission. (Everything was a bowl of custard). Off getting caged at moment.
Thanks guys - next engine drop is going to be less stressful.
Does the ATV jack have nice low clearance, and extend far enough rearward to be able to jack up when installing engine? This bit is always a tight squeeze - never enough height.
Regards
Alan
Old 04-04-2008, 12:02 PM
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This is what I used.

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Old 04-04-2008, 01:40 PM
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Alan. Hi I didn't realise the posting was you.

That SC you bought off me for 150 dollars must have been the best $150 you have ever spent, even considering the minor ding in the front.

How did the 930 look when it arrived? Was it as you had hoped, and what's the engine condition like.
Old 04-04-2008, 01:48 PM
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I'm curious about the rope method... pics?

what holds the rope up?
Old 04-04-2008, 02:52 PM
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