Torq wrench: split beam or std clicker?
 

Does anyone have any experience with the 'split beam' type clicker torque wrench? They claim adjustment is simpler and doesn't need to be set to zero for storage..

I'm only familiar with the classic click type micro adjusters...

thx

The ONLY ones to buy are the split beam wrenches for their sheer consistency and reliability. The other click-type ones can be easily thrown out of calibration by either improper storage or misadjustment.

Thanks Steve, that's reassuring coming from you. I'm looking at precision instruments for a 'mid' priced torque wrench.

I have 2 of the "good" type, and a large family of the clicker type that are all purpose. The clicker type get stored properly and used properly. The 2 certified wrenches, are for certain tasks, plus I use them to check the calibration on the clicker ones. They were not cheap, but real quality usually isn't. They even stay in the house, in my parts room, till needed.

Glad you posted this, I need a torque wrench also. Wondering if anyone has specific brand and model wrench to recommend as ideal for working on old 911's? source for purchase? (not something you'd want to buy used on Ebay).

Maybe this ?...buy a beam type, will never go out calibration, unwieldy to use. Buy a click type and calibrate it's readings against the beam periodically. The clicker then doesn't need to be stupid expensive...just "correct" and calibrated when it needs to be.

This has been gone over a few times. I have 4 torque wrenches... 1 Beam and 3 clickers of different ranges: big, medium, small. the beam one I use infrequently as it is hard to read and hard to get precise on.

*shrug*

the clickers are sears and harbour freight kind. there was a thread on here where a guy had his cheapo torque wrench checked at an Aircraft caibration place... it was not off by a material amount.

I have considered buying another one... they have a digital set one at Harbour freight... would save me doing calculations in my head and mixing up the scales for ft lbs and N ms...

Best regards,

Michael

I have a new electronic strain-gauge type from Sears. Accurate to 3%. I like it.

Big sweeping statements of the superlatives for clicker, or for split beam are hard to take seriously.

I have a split beam, as well as a couple of "clicker" torque wrenches.

Split beam:
Pros:

• Not having to zero it for storage.
• It's got a 2% accuracy rating.

Cons:

• The adjustment is marked in 5 lbs increments. Makes setting the torque at 88 ft/lbs kind of hard. A big con in my opinion.

Clicker:
Pros:

• Much easier to set to a specific torque value.
• Less expensive than split beams.

Cons:

• It's got a 4% accuracy, and only at 80% scale.
• You have to zero it for storage.

Which do I use more?

• The clicker.

Get one of each in 1/2" drive and a 3/8" drive clicker. You can check the clickers against the beam by tightening a bolt with the beam, then checking the clickers against it and adjusting the knurled knob on the end. The 3/8" clickers are good for lower range torques.
I have been told before by machinists that the purpose of a torque wrench is more to ensure that things are not over-tightened rather than too loose. For most purposes, getting close to specs should be sufficient. Perhaps with critical engine assemblies you need the torque to be on a gnat's a$$.

Having worn out my old torque wrench (Sears, I think?), I recently bought a click-type made by CDI Torque Products, a subsidiary of Snap-on. They are not cheap tools, but a lot less expensive than Snap-on. The quality, finish, and feel are absolutely first class.

Check E-Bay!
I have a very good Westward 1/2 drive clicker but didn't have a lower range one.
Picked up a next to new Snap on 3/8 drive flex head for less than half the price in Canada. Range 5-75 ft/lbs.. There is value out there if you look for it, nothing wrong with Sears stuff either...

WOW!
You have a parts room?
I'm jealous, I don't even have a parts bin...I have to use the garage floor and a table...working on getting a bin though. :D
I have both and use them almost in equal amounts, but I default to the clicker only because it can get to the odd torque ranges i.e. 88 ft/lbs. I also have a beam ft/inches for the lower torque ranges.

How in the world can you guys think you can use a beam to 'check' a clicker with any kind of accuracy??? Yeah, its got a 2% accuracy... sounds great, but whats your accuracy in hitting the mark on the dial gage? I know mine sux... ergo my skepticism ;) So effectively we're just getting a ball park guess. One that I think blows the 4% right out of the water so why bother? Maybe my beam wrench is of poor quality or I'm just an idiot and can't keep it steady and smooth enough to get an accurate torque on it...

Best regards,

Michael

There seems to be some confusion between 'beam' and 'split beam'
From what I understand, snap-on gets (or used to get) their split beams from these guys: http://www.torqwrench.com/

I have to agree that the beam has to be stable but yet hard to read especially in any position but square on top of the scale. This is not always possible under the car, etc. So, I have a beam which I can set a "standard" with and go on with the work using the convenience of a click.

The beam could use a larger scale for enhanced accuracy. I know I can't tell 88 from 85 looking at a sweeping needle. Maybe I shake too much. :D

I have both and use both for the proper application. The clicker type is sometimes the only way to get a torque setting. On many occasions, I can't get my face right in front of the scale. The beam type is useless if you can't see the scale. I use my clicker types way more than a beam type. When it comes to the lug nuts the clicker is the only way to go!

Here's a split beam, and they do click.

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop...E-C2FR100F.jpg

I don't post often so damned if I wasn't going to make that last one count.

Well, you made it count all right. So, please explain how the split beam works. I haven't used one.

Thrlls, yes I have a parts room in my house. I have one, 1/2" dial type indicator torque wrench that pretty much lives in there, along with the others, and all of the vintage NOS fuel pumps, water pumps, carbs and all other types of parts for my 1948-1953 Dodge trucks and the early 70's MOPAR's. I hardly use the dial torque wrench, because it is a brute, but it measures up to 600 Ft/Lbs and is almost 3 feet long and heavy. You can not do blind torque readings with it like you can the clicker types, being you have to see the dial gauge on the top surface of the wrench. I made up some double fittings, so one wrench can attach to another wrench, so I can verify how close to spec the everyday use wrenches are.

Milt, they work about like force, load sensors.

"blows the 4% right out of the water"

You assume they really meet the specs, and do so after substantial use. Not so.

At the risk of sounding like a shill for this 'Precision Instruments' company, I found this nice write-up:

http://www.webbikeworld.com/r3/torque-wrench/

If you're asking mechanically how they work... :confused:

3.2 Cab - Your stable of cars make me sick!
Especially your new addition!

Very nice! :cool:

I have both the split beam and the clicker. At the end of the day, I agree with GH85Carrera, if I can't see the damn face, it is useless regardless how accurate the split beam is.

The important thing is store at lowest marked level then prime before use at low settings then the Clicker will stay more accurate and last longer. Ask my buddy Rnln how many he has replaced before reading the manual.

My .02

Just ordered a PI split beam 3/8 drive. :)

Stable
 

Thrlls, my insurance person loves me! This is because, there is only one of me, but there is actually 15 in the paddock, and the insurance people know that I can't drive all at one time so they are making a good bet with me, and making a sizable profit margin with low risk. It helps me, in keeping LOW MILEAGE vehicles. The site won't let me add any more in there, like the 750iL, Dodge Cummins extended cab, 1ton dually, etc. But, I am afraid that I will be having to start thinning the herd, because of Med/Physical limitations. So flee-bay might start seeing some lead into the ring. SmileWavy

I have even checked the calibration of my clickers using a vise mounted to a heavy workbench and a bathroom scale. You stand on the scale, select the torque then pull up or push down until it just clicks, then read the scale and adjust as needed. This may sound kind of Rube Goldberg, but I have done this several times, then tested them against my neighbor's professional-grade torque wrenches for comparison. They check out within the claimed 4% accuracy.
I think more damage is probably done by torquing to the wrong spec than using an innacurate torque wrench, IMHO. Even the cheapie HF torque wrenches are fine for the majority of applications. BUT, if you are assembling the Space Shuttle, rebuild engines for a living or service fighter aircraft, a higher-grade, more accurate tool should be used, for obvious reasons.

this is infact very scientific, nothing crude about it. It however is limited to the accuracy of your bathroom scale, and we all know that bathroom scale lies to protect the overweight owners, ah, inocents.

I just bought this, it has yellow, green and red LEDs and also beeps.

It gives you warning as you approach the set value and then displays the final value when you are done. It is based on a strain gauge technology so pretty accurate.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1207780844.jpg

What it taught me is all these times, as I was using the clicker, the final torque was 30-40% higher than the set values because I tend to make it click and then go past it. Never had any problems but ... so much for having absolute accurate torques. Since then, I have ... um, altered my expectations some.

Ok I will bite, who makes it, where can I find one, and how much does one cost? What range of torque can it measure? Like everyone else I want a 99.9% accurate tool that measures from 1 to 400 Lbs ft and cost under 50 bucks :) Something has to give, is it price, availability, or accuracy. I suspect accuracy is the most important value.

Not beyond a certain point!

Remember, the fastener does not care about torque at all. It cares about strain (or stress -- if you muss') in compression. That is what we really want to set - the axial force on the bolt.

I seriously doubt that the correlation between torque and compression on the fastener is anywhere near 99.9% accurate.

That is why fasteners (ARP rod bolts) that really need to be accurately tightened do NOT use a torque wrench to do it.

Your friendly Sears tool store, about $200 when they have a sale. Two models are offered, one is good up to 100 lb.ft, the other up to 200 lb.ft, about the same price. Takes 3 AAA batteries to light, beep and act real cool.

What is the general consensus regarding the old style with the pointer that just rotates on a dial...no clicker or split beam or electronics involved? Not sure what these are called. I have a clicker and just got one of these "manual", for lack of a better term, since I'd read they are very accurate but not very useful if you can't clearly see the face. I was going to use it for the case reassembly when I get the heads back from Walt at CE.
Thanks,

Works well, accurate to what reading you can read from the dial. This is normally in the 5lbs increment. And your eyes must be exactly squared to the gauge scale, which is extremely hard to do when you are torquing something inside a 911 enginne compartment like the head nuts on the top rows of the intake side.

Other than that, it works great for tires lug nuts.

Thanks, I've also got a method pictured in my mind that may help check the clicker model I have...using some sort of double bolt set up to connect the two wrenches. Just to see what happens.