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Replacing Turbo Tie Rods
Just got my 1st Porsche (83SC) and thinking of diving into replacing the tie rods for a firmer steering response. I have the Bentley's manual and thinking of doing it myself - any advice on the right tools for the job and if I should even tackle it myself (I'm probably average with a socket).
I'm enjoying the site and hope to be a contributor in the future! ![]() 76 TR6 Long gone, but not forgotten |
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Just did this, well this and lowering and a front suspension refresh. I ordered the nice tie rod tool from our host, versus using my pickle fork and it was a lot easier.
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2021 Model Y 2005 Cayenne Turbo 2012 Panamera 4S 1980 911 SC 1999 996 Cab |
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Join Date: Jul 2006
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Depending upon where the car lived and if there is corrosion, this is actually a pretty straight forward project. I would highly recommend that you purchase "101 Projects for Your Porsche 911". I have used this book over and over again as a guide. It details this particular job very well. I also recommend you purchased the tie rod tool. It also makes the job easier.
While you are at it go ahead and replace the ball joints, it will take a little extra time, but it makes a difference with the tie rods. Replacing the front wheel bearings is also a good idea, too. Again, it is pretty much all aparts anyway and the parts are reasonable. Good car, the SC is an excellent choice for a first Porsche and a great platform to build on. Keith |
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Thanks for the feedback - the underside is clean. Will get the book, the tool and the parts from our sponsor (the wheel bearings are making me a bit nervous however).
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Somatic Negative Optimist
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Quote:
Get the 101 Book and the tool but also, get the Bentley SC Repair Manual. Leave the front bearings for now; just check and adjust if there is any play. The procedure is in the Bentley; very easy. When you do the turbo tie-rods, consider installing the bump-steer spacers under the rack, do a search on this. The bump-steer kit is recommended if the ride height is lower than 25.5" fender-lip to ground in front. After installing the tie-rods, you'll need an 4-wheel alignment. Go to a shop with 911-experience! Decide on what Camber and Toe you want before you go because the shop computer has the factory settings that most people don't want; do a search on this.
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1980 Carrerarized SC with SS 3.2, LSD & Extras. SOLD! 1995 seafoam-green 993 C2, LSD, Sport seats. ![]() Abstract Darwin Ipso Facto: "Life is evolutionary random and has no meaning as evidenced by 7 Billion paranoid talking monkeys with super-inflated egos and matching vanity worshipping illusionary Gods and Saviors ". ![]() |
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It's pretty easy, just make sure you jack the front of the car way up and remove the front belly pan completely so you can get better access to the inner boots and the spring retainers that secure them - the most difficult part of the job IMO.
I did mine with a regular pickle fork to pop the tie rod end and a large adjustable wrench to loosen the inner end from the rack. A liberal application of PB Blaster on all joints seemed to make them easier to loosen. It's kind of difficult to lay the old and new tie rods side by side to adjust the length so I made a wire jig that attached to the inner end and marked the length off with a Sharpie, then transferred the measurement to the new rod. I found that it made a huge difference in how solidly the car tracked. Don't forget to get an alignment afterwards. Good luck!
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Joe 85 Carrera 64 Honda Dream - for sale 71 Hodaka Super Rat - keeper |
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If it gets too difficult, you can always remove the whole rack with tie rods and all - it comes out pretty easy.
One thread I read suggested forgetting about the nettlesome springs and using zip ties to hold the boot in place - seems like a good idea if you're doing the job in situ. I am one of the weirdos that didn't notice any difference between the old OEM tierods and the turbo tie rods. So, don't be surprised. Good luck!
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'88 Coupe Lagoon Green "D'ouh!" "Marge - it takes two to lie. One to lie, and one to listen" "We must not allow a Mineshaft Gap!" |
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Bergermeister says:
" ......... didn't notice any difference between the old OEM tierods and the turbo tie rods. So, don't be surprised." Felt no difference with 15" Fuchs and Pirelli. And then alignment, corner balance, 17" wheels/tires. I now sense a direct (less dampened) feel in my hands. Whatever the real difference, it is fun to upgrade suspension.
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I don't think you'll feel much difference unless you're pushing 9/10ths on slicks at Laguna Seca or something like that.
I'd say save your money unless your tie rods are already worn out. I don't use a pickle fork because of the damage to the boots, not to mention hammering away on your steering and suspension parts. I use this tool, and it pops the tie rods nicely with no damage whatsoever ![]() |
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Thanks - I believe our sponsor recommends the tie rod extraction tool you pictured. I'll be getting underneath the car this weekend. What should I be looking for to determine if they are truly worn out?
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I've never actually experienced worn out tie rods, and I own a 911 with over 300K miles, a 914-6 that has gone around 3 times, and a 356 with unknown miles. I usually replace the tie rods when the boots go bad, but that's just me.
My guess, and this is only a guess, is that you'll experience wandering and clunky steering. From the sounds of it you probably won't let your steering get that bad though....... If you ever need to replace your strut cartridges you'll need the tie rod replacement tool. You'll appreciate being able to remove the tie rod without tearing the boot. |
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: South of Sweden
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It is a pretty nice and reasonably easy DIY project. Put another way: If I could do it, anyone can. I canīt say I noticed a dramatic improvement, but then I think my old rods were in pretty good condition. Stock vs turbo rods is probably less important than the condition of them.
Good luck!
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Markus Resident Fluffer Carrera '85 |
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if you go to a regular auto parts store, they have several cheapo pullers that work fine. i have two pitman arm pullers that work way better than the recommended Pcar one. i own that one also. i bought the two way cheaper than the single pcar one. look into it.
you dont mention where you are from. you may even get a loaner. mine has been all over the bay area. no body ripped it off yet. nice car btw!
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poof! gone |
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I can already tell from the responses and my own short ownership that there is a common desire to spend time and money on these cars (even though most of it is probably not really necessary).
So to break it down, I have $250 or so bucks to spend on a perfectly good car inside and out - just need to find "the project" (TT rods are still in the running). I'm in the DC area - photo was taken in FL. |
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go for some h4s
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82 SC , 72 914 |
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The best project(s) that I did in terms of satisfaction and reward for the dollar were:
Wevo billet shifter; 930S steering wheel w crest; Valentine 1 radar detector. After that you have the typical stuff such as tools, seat covers, car cover, etc. |
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I forgot to mention the PO already did most of the polished aluminum interior pieces, fitapaldi steering wheel and a porsche crest red cue ball shifter (I do have the original pieces if I decide to take it back to stock).
The BB stainless dual outlet system is on the loud side so another project this weekend is adding some second skin vibration and noise dampening to the floor boards. ![]() |
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So what's involved with getting the inner side of the tie rod off? Rather then using the special tool can one just unscrew the tie rod with a vice grip?
Chris 73 911 E |
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you could use a large pipe wrench and a large oil line wrench to counterhold the steering rack.
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