MFI help required: cold start & microswitch
 

Please could those of you in the know with MFI walk me through diagnosing two issues? My car is a US spec 1972 2.4 TE with MFI. In fact I bought it when I lived in San Francisco and shipped it home to the UK when I relocated back there. This year is my 10th year of ownership and I do most of the work on it myself.

I have CMA and my engine runs well, but I’m sure the cold start system is not working and also, neither does the microswitch seem to operate (when I perform the CMA test of running the engine to 2000rpm and depress the microswitch, nothing happens). I’m pretty mechanically adept, but need an ‘idiot’s guide’ to diagnosing electrical problems, which I presume is the cause of both problems. I have a voltmeter, but need someone to tell me which wires to test and how, which is why I haven’t got on very well with CMA alone and reading through previous posts on this subject here.

Many thanks.

Dr Dave

(Birmingham, UK)

Dr Dave

Check out this thread on DDK where I had a very similar problem and solved it with help from the other guys.
If you need more info send me a pm

http://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=14994

Regards
Mike

Dave, search here with user name Early_S_Man and "Speed Switch" and you will uncover about 20 threads discussing every aspect of the system, all the way to a schematic for the board inside the switch. This is one of the most thoroughly covered items of the MFI system.

Good luck!

Dr. Dave,
First, WELCOME to the Forum SmileWavy
You will find a lot of help here.

There are (at least) two separate issues here.

The microswitch, RPM sensor and ‘shut-off’ solenoid work in conjunction to turn off the fuel during deceleration. The basic criteria are (1) Off throttle (microswitch), (2) rpm above 1500 and (3) ignore throttle position. The functioning of this system is ‘down the list’ compared to most MFI issues.

Next is the issue of cold start and cold running. There are distinct differences between the two but they are interrelated. One issue is MFI tends to run best when set too rich. This tends to mask some starting and cold-running issues. Aside from the basics (cold start and cold run thermostat), I would concentrate on the normal running first.

Perhaps an exhaust gas analyzer and a data-taking passenger would be useful as a first step. This will tell your basic running mixture. You will want to know it at idle, part-load and full throttle at various rpm. I suspect you will find it “too rich”. Once you get the main running correct you can then address the other issues (rpm overrun and cold start).

This forum has an unbelievable resource of MFI experts to help you through this process. Welcome again.

Best,
Grady

Dr. Dave,

Welcome, you came to the right place. I would have been lost with out these guys and this board.

First listen to these guys, I know it is a P.I.A. :) But the CMA is the way to do it.

I just fixed my RPM Transducer with the help of this board. First I checked my microswitch with a continuity test on my voltage tester. When the switch is closed you will hear a beep, when open no beep. My switch was working. :)

I then removed the RPM Transducer and found 3 capaciters with broken legs. One had two broken legs. :( I resoldered them and hot glued them along the tops to help stabilize them. Works great now. :)

Check out this thread. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8074&highlight=mfi+spee d+switch

Also do a search on the ultimate mfi thread.

Good luck,
Mike

Guys, thanks so much for your input and warm welcome. I’ve lurked here for several years but never posted. I even have printed off many past threads for my (2 inch thick) MFI compendium, as I once recall Grady suggesting. In fact, I have a copy of that very DDK thread Mike, thanks very much. The thing is, I’m easily intimidated by automotive electrics, I guess because I don’t understand them. For example, in the DDK thread on the microswitch issue, Mike says ‘Yes, I can operate the solenoid externally and the engine dies like it should when 12 volts are applied.’ But how do you operate the solenoid externally and how do you apply 12volts. Mike FenderBender says to do a continuity test on a voltage tester, but again, I need to be told how to do this. This is what I meant by needing an idiot’s guide!

Grady hit the nail right on the head with my car’s problem. Let me take a moment to describe the history, forgive my indulgence but I think it might help diagnosing the problems: When I bought the car it had the numbers matching engine. Even though I had a PPI that gave me the green light to purchase, it wasn’t long before I doubted the integrity of that PPI and realised the engine was a little tired. The valve guides were shot at very least. A few years later, and back in the UK, it became time to do something about the engine. I should say it started perfectly etc, no cold start issues, though perhaps even then it was running rich; it just smoked terribly, especially on the over-run.

An opportunity then arose to buy a ‘rebuilt engine’ from a ‘respected specialist’ in the UK. This was when I got stung. I decided to take this route, buying the engine that came ready to bolt in including SSI heat exchangers, because the cost involved was defined, not the case when rebuilding an engine. In fact I installed the engine myself because I wanted to and because I wanted to powder-coat the tinware, paint the engine bay to tidy it up and have the gearbox checked over. However, the engine ran very badly when I got the car back together, but the ‘respected specialist’ wasn’t interested. After getting totally despondent and almost selling the car over the next couple of years having spent so much on it, I bumped into Dominic Toni here and on DDK, who’d had MFI problems. He inspired me to sort out the problem with my car and eventually (winter of 2006) I decided to switch MFI pumps from my original engine, which I’d kept in the garage to rebuild one rainy summer when my boys are old enough to help and learn.

What a result! Immediately the car was 100x better. It started fine and ran well, but still wasn’t quite right. So, late last Spring when the weather was warmer, I took it to a genuine expert, Bob Watson in the UK, who set the car up on his rolling road. It was indeed running rich as Grady suggested and Bob sorted it so that it now made 141bhp, and the factory figure is 140; Bob commented on how flat the torque was and how well it drove.

I drove home very happy- it ran beautifully, the best my car has ever run. Until the next morning. When I couldn’t get it to start without cranking endlessly! I ended up taking 3 washers out of the warm-up thermostat and it started, just. Through the summer, starting was difficult, but I lived with it, even talking it to Le Mans. Now, early Spring, I’ve dusted it off after winter hibernation and it’s almost impossible to start. I’m sure the ambient temperature is lower than at any point last year when I was using it after the rolling road session and that must be exposing my lack of cold start. So here I am!

Grady, do I need to get an exhaust gas analyzer, or can we rely on Bob Watson’s rolling road session (given that I can re-fit the 3 washers to the warm-up thermostat I since removed) and begin to get the cold start system working?

With kind regards,

Dave

I've been having a look at my car today. I disconnected the wire (brown and grey striped) that runs to the terminal of the cold start solenoid on top of the fuel filter console. I connected a bulb between the wire and its terminal on the solenoid. When I cranked the engine, the bulb did not come on. I then connected my bulb between a live supply and the cold start solenoid terminal. The bulb lit up, but there was no sound from the solenoid. Am I correct in thinking (1) I don't have power getting to the solenoid and (2) the solenoid isn't functioning? How do I trace the problem with the power supply to the solenoid?

Sounds like it is too lean now at low speed/cold temperature. Maybe you could richen the idle screw on the injection pump? This is relatively simple as long as you keep very careful track of any adjustments you make.

Remember: I Lean Left- Turn idle screw left(anti-clockwise) to lean the mixture

Oh, and if this screws the running up even more, use your notes to put it back where it was, of course.

The cold start circuit consist of the following parts:
A black standard relay on the relay plate in the engine bay
A thermo time switch on the breather cover on the crankcase
A solenoid on top of the fuel filter.

The cold start circuit works as follows: When cranking, current is supplied to a thermo time switch. Depending on engine temp this switch will ground the black/red wire that goes to terminal 85 of the black relay for a finite amount of time. As long as this wire is grounded the relay will power the solenoid on top of the fuel filter and fuel will be squirted directly into the intake stacks.

I would start by checking fuse no2 in on the engine bay relay plate. This fuse feeds both the cold start relay and the speed switch. Make sure that both terminals are clean and that the fuse is intact.

If you have current here, it is time to check the other components.

Pull the black relay. On the botom of this relay are the numbers corresponding to the function of the respective terminal.

1. with the key in engine run position check if 12 volt is available at terminal 30.

2. to check the solenoid, pull the full hose from the solenoid and replace it with a length of hose ending in a suitable container. Take care because if the solenoid works, raw fuel will be pumped out rapidly. Now connect a 12 volt source to terminal 87 of the relay (key still in the run position to power the fuel pump). If the solenoid works fuel will be pumped into your container. If not, either the solonoid or the wiring to the solenoid is broken.

3 to check the thermo time switch, pull both wires from it. Connect the terminal where the black/red wire was to a test lamp, connect the other side of the test lamp to +12v. Now connect the other terminal (where the yelow wire was) also to +12 v. If the switch works, it should ground the testlamp for a small amount of time, the light will be lit for a few seconds and then go out. If this is not the case replace the switch.

4 check if the black relay is powered during cranking. 12 v should be available when cranking at terminal 86 of the black relay.


If the solenoid and the thermo time switch are ok, and 12v is availble at the right terminals of the black relay, replace it with a known good relay (for example the horn relay from fuse box in the trunk). See if it works now.

As your speed relais also seem to be inoperative, my bet is that there is something wrong with the fuse.

BTW, I would replace the discs in your warm up thermostat. If the car has been set up by Watson, removing these will also influence the mixture when the car is warm.

Thanks fo the replies. Peter, you mention "A black standard relay on the relay plate in the engine bay". Please could you identify it in the figure, which I obtained from 210bhp Mike's post on DDK. I've identified all the other components and have cleaned the thermo-time switch connections, but have yet to test it. I can confirm fuse no. 2 is ok (item 10 in the figure).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208030434.jpg

thats number 4. Number 2 is for a single stage heated rear window, which is not installed on cars equiped with a two stage heated screen

Thank you Peter. I'll work through your suggestions tomorrow.

Today, I spent my time cleaning terminals and then I ran the tests Peter suggested. IMy results follow:

I would start by checking fuse no2 in on the engine bay relay plate. This fuse feeds both the cold start relay and the speed switch. Make sure that both terminals are clean and that the fuse is intact. Yes

If you have current here, it is time to check the other components. Yes

Pull the black relay. On the botom of this relay are the numbers corresponding to the function of the respective terminal.

1. with the key in engine run position check if 12 volt is available at terminal 30. Yes

2. to check the solenoid, pull the full hose from the solenoid and replace it with a length of hose ending in a suitable container. Take care because if the solenoid works, raw fuel will be pumped out rapidly. Now connect a 12 volt source to terminal 87 of the relay (key still in the run position to power the fuel pump). If the solenoid works fuel will be pumped into your container. Yes, fuel .

3 to check the thermo time switch, pull both wires from it. Connect the terminal where the black/red wire was to a test lamp, connect the other side of the test lamp to +12v. Now connect the other terminal (where the yelow wire was) also to +12 v. If the switch works, it should ground the testlamp for a small amount of time, the light will be lit for a few seconds and then go out. Yes.

4 check if the black relay is powered during cranking. 12 v should be available when cranking at terminal 86 of the black relay. 10.6v obtained, not 12v. Is this the problem?


If the solenoid and the thermo time switch are ok, and 12v is availble at the right terminals of the black relay, replace it with a known good relay (for example the horn relay from fuse box in the trunk). See if it works now. No.

BTW, I would replace the discs in your warm up thermostat. If the car has been set up by Watson, removing these will also influence the mixture when the car is warm. Replaced!

I found that if I connected a 12v supply to the solenoid it activated and pumped fuel. However, if there was a bulb in that supply wire, the solenoid did not activate. I don’t know why that would be.

So, I’m not sure where to go next, if you could help I would appreciate it.

I meant to say, all the tests were performed with the speed switch removed (no. 5 on the diagram in this thread), since when I removed the relay plate to clean everything today, I could hear a rattle, which turned out to be dettached components inside the speed switch. I opened it up and inside looks very unhealthy- 36 years of corrosion. Are these units still available? Clearly, my unit is non-functional.

Nice to know that basically the cold start system seems to work. However, 10.6 volts might be to low to power the relay. Is your battery ok?

I don't think the speed relay is still available. I would post a wtb in the for sale and wanted section of the board.

Yes, batteries are ~perfect

Dave, speed switches are available as rebuilt units, try Ottos Venice (if Pelican can't offer them, which I don't believe they do.

Put the washers BACK in the thermostat! Removing them just makes the thing run unbelievably rich all the time-- e.g. the circlip on the rod is on the outside of the washers, as shown here:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=169445&highlight=mfi+th ermostat+rod+rich

A salacious way of remembering this is "WHEN YOUR ROD GETS HOT IT GETS LONGER" and removing the discs will keep the mixture perpetually around 10:1, resulting in Very Bad Things happening.

You are going down the right track, speed switch has nothing to do with cold starting, so if the car won't start fix the cold-start circuit. The speed switch may result in better fuel mileage or fewer backfires in the exhaust, although many, many pelicans run without them (mine's been INOP for five race seasons).

Good luck!

Dave,

This is what my car ran at some time back. Chris set it up to run this way based on exhaust gas analyzer. I think the car is running pretty clean now that Bob set up the recalibrated pump.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/285399-unsure-if-surging-mfi-distributor-related.html?highlight=domtoni

Best
Dom

Dave,

I found this member rebuilds them. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/members/1511.html

There was someone selling rebuilt ones for $75.00 but I can not find the post It was in.

Good Luck, Mike

Thanks to all for your suggestions. With regard to the speed switch, someone (Tim) in the UK on DDK has kindly offered to try to repair mine and Lightweight Andy on DDK has sent me a working speed switch. My micro switch is working and correctly adjusted now.


With regard to the cold start, I'm stuck. I've run more tests and found:
11.9V @ terminal 30 with ignition on
10.3V at yellow wire of thermo-time switch when cranking
10.3V at starter take off at cranking

Should the last figure be 12V? My batteries are in excellent condition and quite new.

If I feed a live to the yellow wire side of the thermo-time switch (leaving the red/black wire connected), then the cold start solenoid operates, but the thermo-time switch doesn't shut-off, so neither does the solenoid.

I'm sure I can wire up a remote switch to operate the cold start solenoid, which would solve my cold start problems, but I would rather have it working as Porsche intended.

Can anyone give me more advice please?

Thanks.

Dave

I ran another test suggested by Grady that I found in a past thread: I grounded the red/black wire to the thermo-time switch and cranked the engine. I got a dribble of fuel. Tried again and there was the briefest of splurges of fuel. The next time cranking and thereafter, no more fuel (I've got a long hose connected to my cold start fuel nozzle emptying in to a glass jar). Does this mean my thermo-time switch needs replacing?

Thank you.

Dave

Dave,

The cranking voltage looks a bit low. I don’t hear any complaints about slow cranking. I assume you have the 1.5 hp starter. As a safety measure (and is regular maintenance), it would be useful to clean the ground straps from the batteries to chassis, clean and tighten the B+ terminals (including where the wire is clamped) and the ground strap between the chassis and the transmission.

There are two useful tests for starter wiring integrity. First is to connect your multi-meter (set at 12 VDC) between the chassis and the starter frame. Crank the engine. Normal is only a very few mV.

Next is to connect the meter between your right battery B+ battery terminal and the threaded starter B+ terminal and measure the voltage while cranking. Normal is only a few mV.

It sounds like the Thermo Time Switch is working. There is a heating element inside that warms as you crank. This prevents you from ‘flooding’ the engine if it doesn’t start. This is why it quit flowing on your 3rd try. Somewhere I wrote a test procedure for a Thermo Time Switch out of the car. I’ll see if I can find the link.

While cranking the heating element in the Thermo Time Switch takes some serious current. The yellow wire connection at the switch can have resistance that inhibits its use. There is a ‘tee’ connection in the engine wiring harness. It is useful to check the voltage at pin #1 of both 14-pin connectors while cranking.

I don’t think there is a Porsche specification for fuel flow from the Cold Start Solenoid Valve but the flow is very substantial. I’ll guess 300 ml in one minute. You can test this by applying external power to the solenoid and measuring the flow (calibrated container and stopwatch). Another important aspect of the solenoid valve is that it shuts off completely – no drops or dribble.

Where do we stand with the overrun system and RPM Transducer?

Best,
Grady

Dear Grady,

Thank you for your suggestions. Here goes:

"The cranking voltage looks a bit low. I don’t hear any complaints about slow cranking. I assume you have the 1.5 hp starter. As a safety measure (and is regular maintenance), it would be useful to clean the ground straps from the batteries to chassis, clean and tighten the B+ terminals (including where the wire is clamped) and the ground strap between the chassis and the transmission."

My ground straps to both batteries were in a woeful state, so I replaced them. All terminals cleaned. The transmission to ground strap is quite new and I cleaned it too. Cranking wasn't and still isn't slow; the starter was new (rebuilt) about 3 years ago (less than 5000 miles).

"There are two useful tests for starter wiring integrity. First is to connect your multi-meter (set at 12 VDC) between the chassis and the starter frame. Crank the engine. Normal is only a very few mV."

I measured 0.34V

"Next is to connect the meter between your right battery B+ battery terminal and the threaded starter B+ terminal and measure the voltage while cranking. Normal is only a few mV."

I measured -0.44V (connecting one wire of my multimeter to the battery via a long leader and the other wire of my meter to the threaded starter terminal).

"While cranking the heating element in the Thermo Time Switch takes some serious current. The yellow wire connection at the switch can have resistance that inhibits its use. There is a ‘tee’ connection in the engine wiring harness. It is useful to check the voltage at pin #1 of both 14-pin connectors while cranking."

Grady, this might be where it gets interesting:

The 14-pin connector of the two that is toward the front of the car (nearest the fuel filter cannister): I disconnected it and had someone turn the key as if to start the car. It didn't crank, but the voltage at the socket of pin #1 read 12.7V.

Then, the 14-pin connector of the two that is toward the rear of the car: I disconnected it and had someone turn the key as if to start the car. Again, it didn't crank, but the voltage at pin #1 read 0.1V and at the socket of pin #1 read 0V.

I double checked the yellow wire at the thermo-time switch (still connected) it read 10.6V while cranking.

The threaded terminal of the battery reads 12.7V at rest and drops to 10.9V when cranking. The yellow wire at the other connection on the starter reads 10.6V when cranking.

"I don’t think there is a Porsche specification for fuel flow from the Cold Start Solenoid Valve but the flow is very substantial. I’ll guess 300 ml in one minute. You can test this by applying external power to the solenoid and measuring the flow (calibrated container and stopwatch). Another important aspect of the solenoid valve is that it shuts off completely – no drops or dribble."

When I supply a live feed to the terminal on the fuel solenoid it gushes fuel- I still haven't measured the volume over time, but expect it's flowing in the region of the rate you suggest (300ml/min).

"Where do we stand with the overrun system and RPM Transducer?"

I haven't done anything more on this yet Grady. It's so difficult to start now because I've put back the washers in the thermostat I took out to get it started, so I thought I'd wait until I can get it running. (As a reminder, I had the car set up on the rolling road last summer, when Bob Watson set up the MFI for me and this revealed the inoperative cold start system. The car had evidently been running rich and therefore started reasonably well from cold; after the rolling road session, I removed some washers from the thermostat so I could start it from cold, but as I said, I've now replaced them).

So, does it sound to you like the tee in the engine wiring harness is faulty? If so, where do I find it? I'd rather dismantle as little as possible of the wiring harness.

Many thanks for your help Grady.

Dave

PS, The wiring diagrams for our early cars can be found at Nick Moss' Early 911 web site (Thanks to Tim on DDK pointed this out to me):

http://www.early911.co.uk/html/technical.html

Dave,

Just like all usual MFI issues, there are a variety of simultaneous things to deal with. The general order is to get the engine running correctly under normal operating conditions first. Second is the cold running (thermostat) and third the cold start.

You can address the cold start with a simple wire from the Cold Start Solenoid Valve to a switch in the cockpit. It sounds like this circuit is working but you might use this technique to get the car to run. (You can even give a quick ‘squirt’ during warm-up if it doesn’t run properly.)

The cold running Thermostat effects the normal running mixture if it doesn’t fully turn off. Usually this is because of rusted heat exchanger or defective air hoses. It can also be incorrectly set thermostat (wrong washers, etc.) The key is to MAKE SURE the thermostat turns off for normal running. There has been significant Pelican discussion on this subject.


The #1 issue is to get proper running at normal operating temperatures. All else is ancillary. You can ‘jerry-rig’ the other systems and concentrate on this. If you can start it and get it through the warm-up phase, the only issue is the running & mixture. Next we can address the overrun system.

On to starting.

The best way to measure the voltage at the #1 pin of the 14-pin connectors is to pop off the cap to the connector while connected. Be careful to not allow any of the pins to get loose. You can then clip your meter to the #1 pin. This gives an “in situ” test with current flowing through the terminal.

You seem to have 0.78V drop through the starter wiring during cranking. That is not excessive but I suspect it can be improved. Less voltage drop is always better.

I would do some more diagnosis before invading the engine wiring harness. I don’t remember where the ‘tee’ is but I can find it for you if necessary so you don’t have to take apart your entire harness. I don’t think you have a serious problem here.

My recommendation would be to re-clean all the battery, starter and ground strap connections. The connection between the battery terminal part and the actual battery wires is commonly neglected. You can get your total voltage drop below 0.100 V. I have seen 0.020 V with a large displacement, high compression engine and 1.5 hp starter. This is good maintenance but probably not related to your issues.

(As an aside, Porsche used a larger battery cable (25 mm) in the chassis starting in ’74. The ’72 with the new 1.5 hp starter was the first year with any current-draw issue, exacerbated by the fact we were putting 2808 cc, 10.5:1 CR engines in these cars.)


I’m very impressed with your diagnostic skills. That makes e-diagnosis possible. :D Please don’t sell yourself short on your electrical skills. One important function of threads like this is to educate someone many years from now.

Best,
Grady

Dear Grady,

OK, thanks for your reply, your time and your compliment! Progress might be slow until next weekend (it's Sunday evening here), but I'll go through cleaning contacts again whenever I can escape into the garage. What is the best way to clean the connections? Are there any handy hints? I've been using fine wet/dry sandpaper followed by cellulose thinners to degrease. I find the male spade connectors very difficult. For the 14-pin connector 'sockets', I wrap sandpaper round a small allen wrench to enable me to apply pressure.

Kind regards,

Dave

Hello all,

My cold start is fixed and so is the speed switch! I've spent hours on the car and would like to thank everyone, particularly Grady, for their input, which certainly boosted my confidence in dealing with electrical issues that I'm usually so unsure of.

The speed switch needed repair and in the UK, Tim Bennett generously did that for me and Lightweight Andy sent me a working unit to help me out. These guys post on the maverick early Porsche site DDK (http://www.ddk-online.com/). I ran the tests in CMA (after eventually getting the car running- see below) and all appears to be in order.

The cold start problem I believe was due to a faulty ignition switch and perhaps a defective thermo-timne switch. However, since I replaced both with new items at the same time (both still available from Porsche), there is the possibility that the thermo-time switch was not defective. I've spent so many hours on these issues that I don't have the energy at present to go back and diagnose more specifically.

What led me to the ignition switch was that I noticed late one night when checking for a spark at the HT lead (because I was at a loss as to why the car still wouldn't start after cleaning, re-cleaning and re-re-cleaning all the connections- all grounds, battery straps, 14-pin connectors, etc) that the intensity of the spark was much higher when the ignition key was released as the engine cranking was 'running down', with the satrter motor not being actuated. When the starter was cranking, the spark was very, very poor. In part, I was lucky that I was doing this at night when I could see the spark intensity more clearly in lower light levels.

I removed the ignition switch (thanks again to encouragement from Tim on DDK) and interestingly found that someone had been inside it before- it had been butchered open and crudely taped back together. This observation gave me the confidence to bite the bullet and I ordered a new one, together with a new thermo-time switch.

In the meantime, waiting for the parts to arrive, I wired up a remote switch in the cockpit to activate the cold start solenoid. I like to think I tried hard to make a neat job of it, but this care caused my next problem: when the new switches arrived, I fitted both (ignition and thermo-time), leaving my remote switch in place because I was uncertain if the new thermo-time was really the solution. I cranked over after activating the cold start with my switch. I could hear it activate, but the engine wouldn't start. I checked for spark- brilliant blue, but now no fuel flow! Aaaaagh!! First fuel no spark, now spark no fuel! One step forward two steps back.

Eventually I traced the no fuel issue to the fact that in wiring in my remote switch, I must have disturbed the single-pin connection in the feed to the electric fuel pump (that connection lies towards the front (ie- front of car) of the engine bay, beyond the fuel filter). I sorted this problem, which was minor but took hours to find, decided to replace the orginal lead that activates the cold start solenoid instead of using my remote switch, tested fuel flow- hey presto! Reconnected the fuel lines, cranked and the engine fired almost immediately.

It's so gratifying to have cured these problems myself, with all your help. Not only do I have the satisfaction of doing it myself, but more importantly I've learned much more about my car. Although we've been together 10 years almost to the day, I'm still learning to live with her. Ha ha!!!

Thanks again,

Dave

Dave,

Great that these issues are resolved. Thank you for posting many of the details. Please post the DDK link with these issues and solutions.

I too am a DDK member (my alu card is #1345), I just don’t have time to monitor all the forums I would like.

Best,
Grady

It is always good to reach a positive conclusion by your self (With a little help is fine too !)
Well done Dave for sticking with it.
Cheers
Tim

Great job Dave, and sorry I have not spoken to you lately. Just got back from the states and Germany.

Best
Dom