No start on 80SC after engine drop
 

I had the engine out for oil leak repair and the while you are in there stuff.
I replaced the clutch, engine wire harness, injector seals, gaskets and adjusted the valves. I have spark and fuel. If I turn the key on and push up on the flap in the air box, fuel will spray out the injectors but under cranking no fuel spray.
Also know the starter will continue to run after removing the key. Not sure if it has any relation to the no start.

also we tried starting fluid and nothing.

I'm definitely not a pro mechanic, but i would think that your starter isn't wired properly and you aren't getting spark. At minimum I'll bump your thread so someone knowledgeable will tell you the answer....

Coldstart, I have spark but have not checked the spark voltage. I read that blue spark good and white spark bad.

sounds like something is very backwards here, the starter should be getting fed a power signal form a the yellow wire that comes from the ignition switch. If that connection is staying hot after the key is released then you you have a bad switch.

Before you go too much farther and risk burning out expensive CIS parts you need to make sure everything is wired correctly. The WUR and AAR need to be getting 12V from the same source. The Frequency Valve should have an open ground with the key on, and a pulsed ground during cranking. The CSV should be getting is power via the chain box sensor.

Any of these plugs are backwards and it cold result in expensive component loss.

CIS Trouble Shooting......
 

Scott,

This is just for discussion and in no way I'm an expert on this subject. But after reading and analyzing the wiring diagrams for CIS models, my aging mind came to the understanding that:

Cold start valve gets power from ignition switch (yellow wire) terminal #50 during 'start operation' either directly or indirectly (via solenoid or throttle valve switch). But if the ground connection is 'open', CSV will get power and won't be energized. So the function of the TTS is an 'on/off' switch grounding for the CSV. In summary, CSV gets power from ignition switch and ground connection via TTS. Please someone correct me because I need to learn too.

Tony

Try swapping in another relay for the fuel pump relay.

Make sure the connections @ the back of the throttle body are good.

Scott, I have two yellow wires on the starter. One large and one with a white stripe. What is the other wire for?

Brad:
The 2 yellow wires on the Solenoid get power at the same time; stick them both on the respective spade connections:
One yellow wire is coming from the ignition switch.
The other yellow wire is going to the Thermo Time Switch (TTS) located on the left chain housing.
The TTS is wired to the Cold Start Valve (CSV)
So, when you turn the key, power goes to the Solenoid to energize the starter and, at the same time, power goes to the TTS and, for a few seconds, the CSV is energized during cranking.

On the Solenoid you should have the heavy black and red wires on one post together.
The black is from the battery, the red is from the alternator.
The 2 yellow wires as described above.

Ensure that connections to the various CIS components are not mixed up.
Sometimes people will mistakenly use the plug for the CSV on the Airflow Sensor Contact (ASC)) and vise versa. (Blue vs. Green etc.)

Forget the Starter Fluid. :)

Gunter if you leave now you can be here by Friday to help. LOL
I am pretty sure I have all the plugs right but it is a new harness and it my be defective.
Thanks

Hmm...........

I was over at Brad's for a bit yesterday and can note the following.

1 - The starter hung up once or twice while I was there, but not always. I'm guessing it was a sticking solenoid.

2 - I lifted the CIS sensor plate and heard the fequency valve buzz and heard what I believed to be fuel whistling through the injectors.

3- I opened the popoff valve and sprayed starting fluid into the plenum, closed the popoff valve, but we got not firing at all when we tried to start the car.

4 - We had hot spark from the coil to the center, but I did not get spark when I pulled the number 1 spark plug. I had to leave then, but Brad said they had hot spark later at the plug wires.

Regards,

Jerry Kroeger

I would like to have a tech session this weekend if anyone is up for it.

Is this plug suppose to be Blue or green?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208299503.jpg

I think I answered my own questionhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208300685.jpg
This photo was from the old harness during cleaning.

You need to start a new thread:

"How do you tell blue from green?"

Green is for the ASC, Blue is for the CSV.
The Frequency Valve, AAR and WUR also have colored plugs that have to match.