I took one trans side off just now and I can feel/hear some play on the axle side... does this mean the axle side is either ready to go out or is going out?

I need a comment here guys... probably since these are likely the original cv's... both ends meaning 4 cv's need replacing.. which probably means getting new axles.

When I did mine on my 87 years ago, I did not remove the cap as you pictured above. I do not believe you are supposed to remove it. I just ran tons of solvent through it and got it clean without taking it apart. But I could be all wrong on this.

What you are looking for is wear - pitting on the bearings, grooves on the CV surfaces, pitting and grooving on the cages IIRC. If anything looks at all suspect, you'll see that just swapping for new or reman axles is the way to go.

You need 3/4" drive to remove the axle nut. And unless it's a really big compressor and very strong gun, it won't break it. I picked up a cheap 3/4" drive set from Harbor Fright, put a long cheater bar on the wrench and it came off like butter. And then I used the same setup to approximate the 300+ lbs torque to tighten it. Shame I'm on the other side of the bridge from you, you are welcome to borrow the tool.

PM/call for anything I can do to help.

Don

Don, thanks.
I fired up my neighbors air and his smallish air gun... didn't work.
I got a new impact gun from a guy at work and fired that up and got one nut off.
Other nut not coming off then I got my map gas torch on it for a minute or so and then it finally came off.
Still I wonder re. the wear I feel on the axle side... I guess as you say clean it out and look in there. What a pain this is..

Yes, it's a pita job. Cleaning and rebuilding the CV's if you take your time, go through lots of gloves and paper towels is doable. If you do the math and add up the value of your time, suddenly those reman axles look pretty good...

Don't forget to swap Left to Right axles after the rebuild.

Don, got the axles out and tried wiggling the hubs.. to see if they move relative to the bannana arm... they move and move alot...for a bearing... so the rear bearings need replacement.... I guess I now do a search on that... probably good I found it now and not have way to Thunderhill or on the track. Could be why my rear brakes are wearing fast.

do the bearings move around when the axles are not torqued in... or do I have worn out rear bearings?

How do I get the axle/hub out of the bearing? I'm pounding on the back with a 32mm socket and 1/2 extension... is it just a matter of pounding more? I'm pretty sure I'm on the hub part and not pounding on the bearing inner race...

I started posting on another thread.... but I made a mistake.. when the big nut comes off the tension in the bearing goes away and it feels like you got a bum bearing.... so I got one bearing 1/2 way out before I figured this out. I think the other bearing will be fine I haven't messed it up but I messed one up. Will build a Home Depot puller tomorrow.

Misc. - my cv bolts are 10mm and allen head and there is no sign of any schnoor washers or any type of washer... just the 1/4 moon plate... I see on Pelican no washers are shown for my year car with non replaceable outer cv. The car has been running like that since I got it... track days and all. I did clean, never sieze and torque to spec and really cleaned the flanges so maybe that helped keep them from coming loose... Not sure what all the hub bub is about the schnoor washers... I think that applies only to certain cv joint setups.

ok, here is an update....
I built a rear bearing puller with a few parts from OSH and Home Depot. Got the bearing out.. it is not easy.. use 1/2" all thread. I cranked on it until I thought something was going to break, then applied map gas torch...for a few minutes and it popped to get things started. I was pushing on the front face with a 3" ABS coupler. That stuff is pretty strong for plastic. Now I need to get a bearing and figure out how to install it and not mess it up. Everyone says to press it square and it should go in... then I need to get the hub in without messing up the inner races.. not so sure about that process.

I also cleaned the "uncleanable" cv on the axle shaft. Used, citrus cleaner, soap and water, carburator cleaner and brake cleaner. Multi times... final rinse with brake cleaner.. I looked at all the surfaces and couldn't see any divots... some polished spots... I can feel just a hair of play... so I'll regrease, reboot and reuse and just replace with a new cv on the tranny side.

I just did all of this with my race car... '75. I bought new assembled axles from my supplier, who got them from SSF. I decided to remove the moly grease and repack with Redline CV grease. I also replaced the wheel bearings. Sounds like you are on the right track. There is a lot of decent information on the Pelican BB's and some bad information. Be careful of the latter.

If you live in Saratoga (or anywhere else in the SF Bay Area for that matter) expert resources are very near by. So if you get in a jam, I suggest that you use them.

To install the wheel bearing, freeze it and heat the control arm.

Don't forget to keep the everything clean and free of grease so when you install and torque the bolts they stay torqued. It also may be a good idea to check/retorque after a while. I also like to paint dot the cv bolt heads and the big axle nut on track cars.

I just did all of this with my race car... '75. I bought new assembled axles from my supplier, who got them from SSF. I decided to remove the moly grease and repack with Redline CV grease. I also replaced the wheel bearings. Sounds like you are on the right track. There is a lot of decent information on the Pelican BB's and some bad information. Be careful of the latter.

If you live in Saratoga (or anywhere else in the SF Bay Area for that matter) expert resources are very near by. So if you get in a jam, I suggest that you use them.

To install the wheel bearing, freeze it and heat the control arm.

Don't forget to keep the everything clean and free of grease so when you install and torque the bolts they stay torqued. It also may be a good idea to check/retorque after a while. I also like to paint dot the cv bolt heads and the big axle nut on track cars.

I often wonder why people ask for help and then ignore it. :rolleyes:

Reading right through the thread so far, you are making it way more complicated than necessary. :)

BTW: When you switch the axles from side to side, you are changing the rotation meaning: You are reversing the torque-direction that the shaft has used for years; not recommended.

Like: You wouldn't change the Torsion bars from left to right, would you? :confused:

the idea with switching axle sides is the balls run on a new area of the grooves. I don't see how this is not recommended.... it's not like the cv's get dizzy

Dizzy is good; a new term in Mechanical Engineering. :D

I suggest you read more about torque-induced stress in Metallurgy.

But, by all means, ignore my input here because I am just an old ME with more than 30 years of experience in industrial applications.

Hopefully, someone nearby can help you with putting it all back together the right way. :)

Best wishes. SmileWavy

well... great but I got you beat by 2 years of MEing but not a lot in heavy bearing type projects.
You could be right...you're the first that has mentioned this. The failure modes I've seen are that the race surfaces get divots for the lack of a better word. It might be called bernelling (sp?). Let's say the torque induced stress thing applied...what part would break? The axle it self?

I'll be able to get this put together properly without help but it will be either with axles in original places or reveresed. I'm aware of pulling the various parts in while not putting loads across the bearings.

I have lost track a little on where you are with this... but speak up if you need help.

On my last service, I dismantled everything. Completely disassembled two of the CV's, then reassembled and repacked with Redline. Then disassembled the two new CV's and did the same thing. On my car, I try to do CV servicing every 1 to 1-5 years depending on how much i have been driving. Most of my friends do the same. We are running 300-400 bhp through them at pretty good angles-- mostly with 915s. If you get in a jam and need some help, just send me an e-mail. Or if you want some local shop help, I can recommend either Don Wise's place or Sportech in Campbell which are not too far from Saratoga.

The CV's are pretty stout , so you should get plenty of life from your new and/or repacked parts.

As for the rear wheel bearings, the commonly available units don't seem to hold up as well as the older ones according to my numerous pro contacts. For me, that translates to keeping a closer eye on them. I have also had friends with worn out a-arms and hub issues that presented as rear bearing issues. These were on high usage track/racing 911s.

Mike,
thanks...I think now I'm doing pretty well. One axle is completely refurbished (new cv on one end and cleaned and repacked on the other)

I got the bearing out.. and working on making or borrowing pullers/etc. to get a new one back in along with getting the hub in without messing up the bearing.

I'm going to Don's this morning...I go there all the time and Don and Worth help me a lot on all my projects... very great people.

To get the rear bearings in, I froze them. Then I heated the control arms for about 15 minutes each. Using that process, the bearings went right in. There are a variety of ways of getting the hub in.

I am sure that Don will help you out... he knows almost everything.

Mike... or anyone?
I posted this new but related issue on the rear bearing removal thread...also
The new bearings I got from Pelican are FAG.
The seal moves and slides on the outer race not the inner race. I think this is not for this application.
Any comments?
Thanks.