Anyone rent the jig for drilling out broken exhaust studs (3.2)

[Bob Prosser]

Hey all. While having the valves adjusted on my 3.2 Carrera (at a reputable Porsche shop), I was told I have a broken exhaust stud in #3 cylinder. They quoted $500 for the job. Bummer!

I am a DIY type on basic tasks, so I was wondering if anyone rents the jig needed to drilling it out?

I also wonder, when the exhaust systems comes off will the act of removal break others?

Thanks

[ghnat]

AQUIETBOOM (on this board) sells a tool for just this purpose. PM him for details. I have one on the way as a matter of fact...

[Bob Prosser]

Thank you. Wow, talk about niche market cottage industry. Thinking ... by the time I buy that part (or rent one from a fellow PP-er), and the right bits, bolts, etc., I wonder ... does the $500 shop estimate sound about right?

And since the manifold has to come off (I assume), I'm wondering how many other bolts will break, which I am sure runs the estimate upward.

[john walker's workshop]

you will break no bolts, IF, you heat the nut red, one at a time with a oxy/acetylene torch and remove it while it's still a dull red. bright red allen nuts tend to round out and create a removal problem, so wait a few seconds until it dulls out a bit.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Just curious, would a small MAPP gas torch be adequate for this or is an oxy/acetylene setup required to get it hot enough?

[rs6er]

No way you will get it with MAPP. I tried, but I have an East Coast Car. For the record, Christian's tool works great, is not ridiculously expensive, but the job is a PITA, especially if you're doing it on your back. But then again, I drilled them all out.

[rbuswell]

Originally Posted by rs6er

No way you will get it with MAPP. I tried, but I have an East Coast Car. For the record, Christian's tool works great, is not ridiculously expensive, but the job is a PITA, especially if you're doing it on your back. But then again, I drilled them all out.

I'm going to drop the engine on my '82 SC soon to chase down some leaks and do some other cleaning and adjusting tasks and I was wondering if, given the fact that I may go to an early SSI exhaust in the near future, whether I should remove the current exhaust system and replace the studs, since the engine will be on a stand?

[rs6er]

I would do it while then motor is out. Certainly a lot easier to put heat on it.

[RoninLB]

AQuietBoom stud removal gizmo seems to be the cat's ass.

[equality72521]

Originally Posted by RoninLB

AQuietBoom stud removal gizmo seems to be the cat's ass.

That's being conservative. I just used mine and drilled out 8 studs, chased and cleaned the threads, and installed 12 new studs in 4 hours with the engine in a stand. Christian's tool is effing awesome. I told my wife there are some tools that are worth every penny you spent on it and that is definitely one of them.

[A Quiet Boom]

Thanks for the kind words about the tool guys. I must give credit where credit is due, the original design is John Walkers, I'm just semi-mass producing them. Bob, I don't list the price of the tool on the board out of respect for Pelican Parts, PM for details.

[Bob Prosser]

Gents, get this: I just lifted the side of my 911 to see this broken exhaust stud for myself. What do I find? Nothing but a hole. A 33 mm deep hole to be exact.

If you look closely here, you can see threads deep inside.



Doing some research, I see a replacement exhaust stud is an M8 x 50 mm. (Pelican Part #999-062-239-02-M260)

In other words, it looks like the bolt fell OUT, and didn't break OFF as I was told by the shop.

A $5 bolt plus 5-minutes to install, instead of a $500 estimate!

Jeez, I hope the mechanic's eyes were bad, and they didn't think I was a rube (memo: don't wear an expensive watch when you take your car to a shop).

Thanks anyway for everyone's input.

[RoninLB]

I used loc-tite on studs

[3.2 CAB]

Sounds like you dodged the bullet on that one! Good luck!! Tony.

[Thrlls]

I would still get the tool from Christian if you plan on keeping the car or doing this type of work in the future.
I used timeserts, but the next time I'll be using Christian's tool, since one now resides in my tool box.
I used anti-seize on my bolts.

[vreference]

Seems like no one ever mentions it but go grab a bottle of Anti-seize (Silver container - get a good sized one for $5.00) and paint those studs! If you want to know for sure you can get a bolt or nut off when you come back to it; Anti Seize is the way to go.

I painted the whole Stud/Nut assembly after I had it them tightened down for good measure - the stuff will smoke as the exhaust heats up but one of its' recommended uses is Exhaust Hardware - good to 1700F or some absurd number.