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rib rib is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2007
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More BHP

Hi Ya all, Last year I installed a performance chip from Steve Wong and also cut the front off the air-filter box and replaced the original stock filter with a BMC race filter as, descibed by Bob Tyndall. Wow, goes like **** of a blanket.

I now want to try a catalytic bypass pipe. Anybody fitted one and if so, is their any performance advantage. If anybody has any views on this subject, good or bad, please post them.

Rob.[img]

Old 04-15-2008, 06:19 AM
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I have a Steve Wong chip but left my intake stock. I didn't notice any difference from airbox changes. I also replaced the CAT and noticed a difference. I was a little surprised how much I gained as no one seemed to think it would do much. Plus you lose some weight which is never a bad thing.
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Old 04-15-2008, 12:06 PM
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There's not a lot left to do from what people tell me unless you want to dump a lot of money into the car. I'm looking to get turbo tie rods and then leave her for awhile. But if anyone else knows how to add some HP I'd like to know.

Anyone have much gains from sport exhaust??????
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Old 04-15-2008, 12:08 PM
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In my opinion the best value mods are:
Maintance first. A cat bypas and a muffler mod with just a second mirrored pipe on the other side is a great value and great hp.

The reading I have done on the air box mod it about 0 to 5 hp. Mostly up top. Of course, if it had a dirty air filter that is a different story.

After these I would make a commitment to a SW custom chip. He sends you a chip. Then you get the car dynoed to check the A/F ratios. Then he mods a chip to fit your car. About $600 with the dyno work.


The total of these should get 215 - 220 rwhp on the dyno or 245 at the flywheel.

Everything else costs a bunch except a ebay header system w flomaster or Magnaflow muffer. Can you say loud.

In my opinion, SSI's do not put out any more hp than a bypass due to the larger primary's on the stock heat exchangers. The SSI's will have a bit more around 3k rpm.

Go the 911chips.com and see his dyno charts.
Old 04-15-2008, 07:39 PM
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SSI's aren't the only choice here.....I'm pretty happy with my B&B headers, a definite bump from the old days of a cat bypass. Larger primaries than SSI's.
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Old 04-15-2008, 07:48 PM
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Ya, a good long tube equal length header system would be very sexy and can help some over the bypass/sport muffler conversion. From the dyno sheets I have seen the SSI's/sport muffler is a tie for max HP with the bypass/sport muffler. For the $2k price differance I just find better value in other mods like suspention and weight loss. I would love em but I am to cheep.

Took 50 lbs off the car by taking every' thing our of ft trunk, 5 lbs with the bypas, 10 lbs from the rear seat backs, 16 from the rear rubber bumpers, 35 from a small battery, 40 lbs from the dash cover, sheep skins and floor mats that came with the car. That is like 5% more Hp for $300.

A/C is 80 lbs if you choose and fiber bumpers can be about 70 lbs. There is another 100 lbs hiding in the seats, carpet, door pannels...

A mass air flow conversion seems like a mod that adds real Hp. Again on a cost / hp value a little pricey to me. Good thing is that it will sense air flow all the way to red line. The stock barn door meter does not. My car seemed to be flowing more than expected above 5k where the meter runs out so the chip was not giveing me the fuel I needed. I was 217 rwhp or 255 with the fuel shortage. That is without the sport muffler mod.

Thats why like the custom chip.

With the full headers, a bit more compression, cams, mass air and a few other tweeks, 270 hp is possable. Again, I am happy with my hp for the $1k I have invested.

I am saving my spoiler and header money for close ratio gears which should transform this thing.

Just my $.02.
Old 04-15-2008, 09:05 PM
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rib rib is offline
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More BHP

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheToddfather View Post
I have a Steve Wong chip but left my intake stock. I didn't notice any difference from air-box changes. I also replaced the CAT and noticed a difference. I was a little surprised how much I gained as no one seemed to think it would do much. Plus you lose some weight which is never a bad thing.
Thanks for the reply. What CAT modification did you use? I was advised by Steve Wong to make the air-box mod and had the chip designed with that in-mind. I don't know if it makes a huge difference but every little helps, plus the sound is great as it gulps air in to the intake. Its not too loud-a nice sound. I also changed the plugs to NGK B85EGV Racing Competition. Runs great and when you floor it, revs very freely all the way up to 6900RPM

I would like to buy a complete Stainless Sports Exhaust System but, money, money. I prefer to make a small mod then when the whole system needs changing, doing it then.
Old 04-16-2008, 12:57 AM
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The euro premuffler and a sport exhaust and steve wong chip are the best bang for the buck. After that it tends to be incremental gains for your cubic $$.

Exhaust is expensive.

I'd wait to do it all when you have to do it - then make it count - that's what I did.

3.4 mahle 9.8 to one jugs
extrude hone intake
993ss cams (Dougherty Racing Cams)
arp rod bolts
Supertech Head Studs
enlarged throttle body
competition springs and retainers (EBS)
LN 1 3/4" SS Headers
Dansk Dual in - Single out
Steve Wong custom chip to pull it all together
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Old 04-16-2008, 04:56 AM
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You just about have my dream build. Add a $2300 SW mass air conversion and you migh get to 300hp.

That is somthing like $1,000 to go from 210 to 250 and another $9000 to go from 250 to 300.

But want a car! I am inclined to spend it on sticky tires (bang for the buck) and track fees.

It is all good.

Just make sure if you are spending that kind of money on a car jewlery you are spending some on jewlery for your wife/girl freind/ other.

Other wise you may end up with one or none of them.
Old 04-16-2008, 06:13 AM
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Funny but I'm not sure the $2300 mass air flow conversion would be worth it - it was another incremental gain.

I'd be better off to go with Individual throttle bodies and Motec or Tec3 - but I like the driveability of motronic - get in, turn the key and off you go.
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Old 04-16-2008, 06:33 AM
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Sorry, missed your question. If you do not have to smog your car you can gut you cat and it should be fine. I bought a used bypass which I think was made my Bursh. Cost me $100 delivered.

From the reading I have done, the air box mod my or may not work. Jerry Woods did some dyno tests suposedly and on on ocasion got no HP differance. Then on another got 3 or so. They tested the K&N and got nothing.

The improvements if achived are up top. May help more on a car like a 3.4 or 3.5 conversion.

Best bet is to keep a clean stock airfilter in it.
Old 04-16-2008, 06:36 AM
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JermyD,

I am with you an that. Did you know you can do a conversion the ITB's and keep the Motronic?

There is a tuner that can convert the Motronic to a vacunm sensing system that can be then dialed in to work with the ITB's. Going to 3.6 plastic manifold with the vac sensing would hot.

I am with you, I am staying with the barn door system.

Again the mass air system appeals to me in that is can mesure air flow above 5k where the original system dose not. Thus, the programer has to make an assumption about how much fuel is needed under WOT above 5k or so.

This is why I am a big proponet to having ones car dynoed, preferably on a warmer day and having SW reset there A/F's if needed. I was at and above 14/1 A/F above 5k on my car with a chip designed for my application out of the box. There are differances in these cars. Especially after 20+ years.

I am not an expert but what I understand a system that functions more as a referance system (ours above 5k ) usally dose not account very well for the differances from a winter setting to a Summer setting. Not a big safety concern for most of us as we are not turbo cars, not spending a lot of time up there and the program dose compensate for tempeture to a degree but I think it is more on the ignition side.

The best advice, which I do not tend to follow. In order, make the car safe, make the driver save, make the driver fast, then make the car fast...
Old 04-16-2008, 07:14 AM
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I did bypass, chip, airbox and muffler, it was an ok increase in power, nothing to really write home about. I then thought about doing a high comp 3.4 to get about 280hp but instead mounted 930 headers, a garret GT30, protomotive charge pipe and fuel pressure regulator, tial wastegate a few other bits and pieces and running at a safe .5 bar I have 360hp. The car is now really quick and just as drivable as before. The 3.2 seems to be begging for a turbo, the power increase is incredible!
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Old 04-16-2008, 07:53 AM
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Oh and to get rid of the barn door afm, I'll be trying one of these:

http://www.mapecu.com/map2.html

A lot of good feedback and well priced.
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Old 04-16-2008, 08:01 AM
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Very interesting...
Old 04-16-2008, 08:08 AM
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Spence, thanks for the reply. I have been reading like mad to find people with turbos or superchargers to see if they're safe and reliable. I think they're easilly the most cost effective power boost for a car and unless you're insane about power, you won't need any more pricey mods for power so you can focus on handling mods. I'm a bit of a newbie when it comes to turbos though. If you get a second, maybe PM me and tell me a bit about it. Was the garrett a bolt on, do-it yourself job? or did you have a major job getting it under the hood? I have the standard coupe tail and have read it's a nightmare getting a turbo/SC under the hood. I've read .5 bar is the best bet aswell, and 360hp is more than enough to satisfy my craving for power. Thanks for posting.
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Old 04-16-2008, 09:08 AM
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No Problem Todd, I did about a year of research before I took the plunge, more than happy to help out. I did my conversion myself, I also have never owned a turbo of any kind but I have been working on cars and motorbikes for years. I don’t know how it could be a nightmare, the whole thing was really simple IMO but I don’t know your skill level. All you’re really doing is fitting a different exhaust system, supplying the turbo with oil and providing more fuel. The most difficult part for me was working out I was sent a couple of wrong parts from suppliers and waiting for the correct stuff.

You don’t need to drop and open the engine at all and returning to the car back to stock could be done in an afternoon. Though the thought of going back makes me cringe, I always loved my 3.2 but found it quite un entertaining to drive, you had to kill the engine to get it on cams before it had any power, the modern ball bearing turbo spools up so fast I now have linear power right through the range. I couldn’t recommend it more highly!

Beware though, a lot of purists will tell you you’re bastardising the marque turboing it, it’s funny considering whenever porsche wanted to get maximum power out of these cars they added a turbo or two!

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Old 04-16-2008, 05:20 PM
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