Body work and costom options...

Alright, I took the cover off my injured baby today and noticed that there is quite a bit of rust starting to form where the metal was bent or the paint cracked off. Most of this doesn't concern me because it'll be cut off and replaced when I fix the body but I don't want it to creap up on me and cost me more that I expect.

First question: How do I prep the car for painting? I want to do a full body bare metal spray and would like to do as much of the work myself as possible. Chemical? Sandpaper? Bead/sand blast? I have all the inerts out (completely including sound proofing)

Lastly, I read in Excellence about a guy covering up his sunroof with a fiberglass part and I am interested in doing this to make as much head room as possible. How is this done? anyone with experience?

Wow, that was a long one, Thanks for any input!

Adam Roseneck

P.S. I love the deep purple 'Eggplant' colour the guy painted his car.

------------------
1978 911SC 3.0
roseneck@cyberbeach.net

How many previous coats of paint are on the car...TargaEuro

If your not sure buy or borrow a paint thickness guage. That will give you a good idea of how much paint is on the body. You can also sand an area preferable the damaged area with a DA sander with 80 grit paper on it untill you get to bare metal then count the rings. Similar to a tree.....TargaEuro

I'm not quite sure how many but the paint is fairly thick (from what I can see). I think that there are MAYBE 3 coats, but I'm not positive.

I'd like to get rid of the paint and the rust at the same time with the same method but I don't want to ruine the galvinizing.

Adam Roseneck


------------------
1978 911SC 3.0
roseneck@cyberbeach.net

Hals Autobody in Woodland Hill would charge you about $ 1800 to paint a stripped shell with no damage you supply the paint. They sprayed my car with six coats of Dephi green, Two of straight delphi, two of 50 delphi 50 clear, two coates clear. I did the final color sanding and finish buffing my self. Steve

hey steve, i'm getting my car back from the paint shop in a week. It is being shot with imron. The shop is saying that it will have some orange peel that can be color sanded off if i want to do this.They can do it but the cost is to high and the the shop said this is something i can do. Just have a pro. rub it out after. Any tips on how i can do this myself. What kind of sand paper etc.
thanks

If you have 3 coats of paint you should definenly strip it to bare metal. As for how to do it, how much time you got? Sanding will take you forever. Chemicals work well but are very messy. I dont sand full cars to bare metal for two reasons, one it creates to much dust for to long and two it takes a very long time even with a DA or palm sander plus you have to do all the tight areas by hand. I do use chemicals to strip quite often. It is messy and you do have to be carefull were the chemical goes but it is easier than sanding. Stripping 3 coats of paint with chemical stripper will take some time to do the entire car but as long as you have a good place to do it with plenty of light and fresh air its not bad. You will not harm the glavanized coating with the chemicals either as you would with sanding. Take much time strippng as much if not all the trim, door handles moldings etc. as you can to make the job much easier. Ive found that scuffing up the paint with 80 grit paper helps the stipper work better but I guess it depends what brand you go with. Do you plan to do any body work and priming yourself?....TargaEuro

Adam, I'd go with a plastic media blasting if you want a thorough job without harming the gal finish. Otherwise the chemical approach is better...less time, less dust.

No matter what you are up for some work!

------------------
John Forcier
69 911T

Isolon, how come Imron and not a two part base/clear system, just curious. When you start to wet sand (rub out) the paint you really need to determine how much sanding is needed before you start. In most cases 1000 grit will bring down most imperfections and orange peel. If you have minor orange peel and dust nibs use 1500 or 2000 grit paper. Always use paper designed for wet sanding not just for dry sanding. Its also helpfull to add a drop of dish soap or megiuar's #62 carwash to the water to help keep the paper from loading up while your sanding. Always sand in the same direction and use a block aswell to keep the paint from getting wavey. I use motorgards holey terror sanding block it works great. You know what, just bring me the car and Ill show you how to do it. Next lesson= buffing with compounds, polishes and a rotory high speed buffer....TargaEuro

[This message has been edited by TargaEuro (edited 05-16-2001).]

the paint choice was a hard one. I live on a side of a mountain where there is allot of fog. I have no garage and the car was in bad shape body and paint wise. It was either strip the car down or go half way. I chose half way. I did 50 % of the work. Allot of the people in shops that i talked with were saying that with the conditions i have weather wise; since it is parked under a tree, etc, it would be better to go with a paint that (I) could easily buff out if i got scratches and what not. I had imron on my last car and it held up great for years. I know there are pros and cons on both. I know most jobs are 2 stage these days. Imron is tough as nails. May not be as shiny as a 2 stage but what the hell. This car needed to much work to look great. Thanks for the wet sanding tips. If was located where you are, i would bring it to you.