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david w.
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Angry Front targa seal

Has anyone ever replaced the front targa seal (along the top windshield frame, and down the door jamb)on a 69 - 73 911?
I just bought a new seal and followed a tech article by Dan P on how to grind it to fit with a bench grinder. I now have six pounds of rubber shavings on my shoes and a 160.00 seal that just does not fit!
Has anyone found a source for the correct seal (without having to grind?)Or does anyone have a trick for this??
Thanks
(blackfoot)

Old 05-22-2001, 10:52 AM
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Kurt V
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What a bizarre problem. I just bought a new one last week from Vertex. Had them on sale for $89.00. Ordered on Tuesday, got it on Thursday. With the upcharge for using a credit card and shipping came to $106.00. Fit perfect with no modifications. Took awhile to pull the old one off and scrape out all the rubber. Then I just put some contact cement in the bottom of the channel (not on the sides) on both the top and the door jambs). Put the new weatherstrip in and done! By the way, thanks to whomever it was on this board that pointed out the sale!

Kurt V
72 911E
Old 05-22-2001, 11:04 AM
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davis911s
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I have the same problem on my 77 so anyone please help.

Shawn
Old 05-22-2001, 01:37 PM
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david w.
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Kurt v. Does your top fit with no problems??
Old 05-22-2001, 02:57 PM
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david w.
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Kurt v. Does your top fit with no problems??
Old 05-22-2001, 03:04 PM
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Kurt V
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When I first put the top on the new weatherstrip it sat up about 1/4 inch higher than before. Over the last week it has settled down about 1/8 inch.

Kurt V
72 911E
Old 05-22-2001, 05:35 PM
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campbellcj
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Hmm, I have replaced this seal twice on my 70 targa, and never had any problems. "Glue and go" so to speak.

Sounds like you may have gotten a later seal, perhaps for a 964 targa or something???
Old 05-22-2001, 06:04 PM
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MBlake
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I recently replaced both the front and rear targa bar seals - it was pretty straight forward (which made a nice change for me!)

Once I removed the old rubber debris, I approximately located the seal in the header rail grove. The part did not line up exactly (too short across the top). However, by positioning, and bonding (contact adhesive) the a-pillar first, pinning that by closing the door, then stretching the part across the top, the seal located fine.

The targa top stood slightly proud on the LHS, but that was due to the targa top vertical prong being missing. With that replaced, the top is now just slightly high in the centre.

I am trying a few tweaks to improve things - I'll let you know if I have any success!

------------------
Marcus

'73 S Targa
Old 05-23-2001, 01:23 AM
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david w.
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Thanks for all of the input.
I have a new seal coming from Vertex....promised to fit.
I took a wrong path somewhere on that project, but thats what keeps it interesting I guess.
Old 05-23-2001, 02:46 AM
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Jdub
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Pano tech article Targa Windshield Frame Seal problem

A problem has developed for Targa owners from an unusual source. Somewhere during the last few years, when ordering a new replacement front windshield frame pillar seal, one receives a superseded seal. Problem folks, these superseded seals just don’t fit 89 and older Targa's. The proper part number is no longer obtainable. Old part #911 565 090 47 now superseded #911 799 565 80. You may, in fact, get the proper part # on the package but the seal will be the superseded one. I have been told that the official response to this situation is that the new seal will require cutting and shaping to get the proper fit. Since where to cut and shape has been a mystery, the choice has been either to retain your old seal or live with an ill-fitting top.
The difficulty with the new seal is varies from 2mm to 4mm too deep across the whole top and 4 mm too wide at the corners. This results in the seal not fitting far enough down into the body groove, thus the seal seats up too high and the top rides on top of the seal. Roller latches on tops from 86-89 can be adjusted but this is a Band-Aid fix because wind noise will result. There is no such luck for 69-85 cars. Damage usually occurs to the latch by forcing the top to fit. It would seem that the second rule of carpentry applied when the seal was made, “ cut it big and kick it into place”.
Now the fix: What needs to be done is the removal of material from the seal so that it will slip unimpeded into the channel. Material needs to be not only removed from the sides but also from the bottom of the seal, as mentioned. The best approach I have found for removing material from the seal is a bench grinder.
Side of seal material removal: Remove 2 mm on each side of the seal downward and inward 3 ¼”from the 90-degree bend. The proper width should be 10mm. New seals are 14 mm at this spot. (See diagram 1) Seal taper out to the regular thickness the last ½” or so. This includes removal of material from the large triangular corner knob. It needs to be shaved on the sides by 2mm to 3mm wherever it touches the V metal corner channel.
Bottom of seal material removal: The underside material of the seal needs material removed by 2mm to 3mm in the same corner area. In my modifications, I have removed material 2mm from entire windshield length with good results.
Test fit: You can test your work as you go along by periodically testing top for fit. The seal should not be forcing the top upward during these fittings. The seal dry should be just a tad loose for when you apply glue in the channel for installation. This space will be accounted for. I feel in order to get the seals bottomed out, it is best to install the seals with glue only in the channel and install the seal wet before the glue sets up. Until this seal situation is resolved with the proper sized one, this is our best chance of getting our Targa top to fit correctly.

Dan is owner of Cars Inc of NJ. He is along time PCA member with a business of Restoring Targa Tops and Selling Vintage Parts. Website carsinc-nj.com 609 298 2277
Old 05-23-2001, 05:04 AM
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david w.
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That is the article!

Old 05-23-2001, 09:12 AM
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