Rocker Arm Mystery 2.7L

[kach22i]

How do you check the torque of the rocker arms on a 2.7L (1977)?

I did my first valve adjustment last fall and like most first timers opened it back up to get it "just right", but I'm just doing the work this spring. I might not have been at Z1 for the last valve, just noticed there is a mark in flywheel pulley about 20 degrees before it - can't remember if I used that but the ticking told me there was a problem.

One of the things I did not do the first time around was check the rocker arms. Well I got around to it, I only opened up the passenger side valve cover to do my work though.

The top rocker nearest the rear bumper was not a 5mm allen/hex all the others are. Based on a clay mold I made it's 8 mm, using a mirror I can see a 7 mm allen just swims in the opening.

Griding down some one dollar 8mm allen wrenches so they are shorter and fit into the tight space I could barley get a grip into the hole and feared doing damage.

The valve covers are back on, the lower rocker nearest the firewall I think had the same 8 mm-ish condition present.

How do you check the torque of the rocker arms on a 2.7L?

[2.7RACER]

When I assembled my engine, I install all the rocker shafts with the 8mm end facing the chain housing on both sides, intake and exhaust. I then insert a long 3/8 extension from the flywhel end and attach a 5mm allen socket at the rocker shaft. My 5mm allen socket don't fit through the holes. After centering the rocker shaft properly, I then hold the 8mm end while torqueing the 5mm end. I work my way from cylinder 1 to 3 and from cylinder 4 to 6. The oil cooler is installed after finishing the 4,5,6 side. The sheet metal is installed on the 1,2,3 side after installing the rockers.
So in my engine, the 8mm end always faces the timing chain end. Both sides.
I don't see how to torque the rocker shafts after the engine is assembled and in the car unless using a small 1/4 drive wrench. I don't have one, don't need it.
My 8mm allen wrench is also shortened to hold #1 and #4.

About adjusting your valves. It is NOT necessary to be exactly on the Z1 or the 120 marks when adjusting the gap.
Remember both intake and exhaust valves have been closed for at least 100 degrees before TDC compression and remain closed for at least 100 degrees after TDC.

Anywhere inside 100 before to 100 after TDC compression is fine to correctly adjust the rocker gap.

[Dixie]

If it's not leaking, I'd leave it alone. If it is, you're on the right track. Cutting down an old 8mm allen key to *hold* the nut will work. Do not turn the 8mm allen head nut! It will groove the cam tower. Turn the 5mm allen head bolt on the other end.

Those two marks on your pulley? The Z1 mark is the one on the left.

[kach22i]

Thank you for the replies, I'll look in the engine rebuilding section to get a better idea on the situation. They are pretty good about posting pictures if I recall.

I tried my molding clay trick opposite the 8 mm, but it does not take well to the smaller 5 mm holes. The 5mm hex did not seem to fit, looked like a round hole opening on those couple of end rockers when using the clay. Do not use a real sticky clay which will leave things clinging to your engine. In fact don't use any clay, it was just an act of desperation.

To clarify, I've been talking about cyl #4 upper (rocker arm) and cyl #6 lower (rocker arm).

[bkreigsr]

just be sure you get them all tight...

Bill K

[kach22i]

Originally Posted by bkreigsr

just be sure you get them all tight...

Bill K

Don't scare me like that.