Opening deck lid

[mgc1]

I replaced the deck lid on my 911. But befor I completely adjusted it, I latched it shut. Now it won't open. The pull cable works and pulls smoothly but I get nothing. It's tight. The latch post is too far back toward the reat I think. Any suggestions? Bentley doesn't give breakdowns of this. Thanks.

[jthwan22]

I had the same problem read here. engine lid stuck on 84

It is not open yet when I put the car away for the winter. I plan to remove the center reflector and drill a 1" hole next spring to push against the locking rod.

[mgc1]

How will you get the center reflector off? You access it under the seal to the deck lid? It's a hell of a fis. Removing the muffler looks like I need a sawsall.

[jstobo]

Do A search. This has been answered many times. Pushing on the deck lid while cable is pulled works sometimes. If you are alone use a pair if vise gripes to hold the cable open. Good luck. You will need it.

[jthwan22]

I was told the center reflector is just snap in. A thin blade screwdriver should pry it off. I didn't do it yet so I am not 100% sure.

[Gunter]

Originally posted by jthwan22
I was told the center reflector is just snap in. A thin blade screwdriver should pry it off. I didn't do it yet so I am not 100% sure.

No, No, No: You'll damage it that way.
Depending on the model, year, type, the reflector is held by clips or screws.

To open the lid, I suggest that you get another person to pull on the release while you manipulate the lid.
Grab it by the edge with your finger tips and slide it over to the pass side.
You may be lucky.

[Hugh R]

Some where here I read that it you unscrew the t-handle and let the cable loose, the hood will open, the latch is apparently in the middle when closed and will go left or right when pulled or released. Anyone tried this?

[Goth]

Try driving up/down the drive way at an angle while pulling on the release.

This has worked for some.

[mgc1]

The deck post was off so far that when I latched it, the head of the post deflected as it entered the latch hole then shifted toward the rear and locked in. If you look at the post head it is bullet shaped at the tip, and flat at the back end that latches. Since mine was latched to the latch hole instead of the latch lever, pulling the latch lever did nothing. In fact the lever was freely moving. I had to remove the bumper which meant removing the 2 rubber bumpers (3 screws each, 13mm lock nuts, which had light rust). Then remove the rubber bumper strips (8mm lock nuts, and 1 Philips head near the rubber bumpers covered by the access hole caps). Then 2 8mm nuts on each accordion boot (left & right). These had corrosion that froze them in the bumper holes. Put the nut back on and pound them out from the inside. If they get destroyed, they would have by pulling anyway (one of mine did). Then remove the 4 bumper nuts (rusted) and remove the bumper. Then remove the sheet metal screws and galvanized sheet metal shroud plate covering the lower body section that houses the deck latch mechanism. The only way to the latch is to drill or cut a hole. I used a dremel with a metal oxide cutter and cut an access "door" approximately centered (left & right), and bent it down (see photo). This exposed the underneath side of the latch and the problem. It was clear that the only way to solve this was to take a 1/2" drive extension, position it on the deck post at the proper angle , and whack it with a hammer. This deflected the post back to the hole and the lid popped open. I bent the "door" back and sealed it with blue permatex rather than welding it. The shroud covers it and you cannot see it from anywhere else. What an ordeal. I removed the entire post to align my deck lid. These cars are so much fun to work on. By the way, the bumper has to be removed to remove the porsche back reflector plate. And the clips that hold them on are from hell. This is not the place to work from to free the post because there are then 2 layers of steel that need drilling, and a gap of about 3 inches between each.

[jthwan22]

I finally did this. Make sure you drill the hole as far back to the rear as possible. There is another big beam in there.

[Dueller]

Have someone pull the cable while you slap the lid HARD with your open palm right over the latch mechanism. Always worked for me.

[83-911SC cab]

Is there any way of trying to get either a clothes hanger or some sort of wire/cable between lid and body to pull the post toward the bumper and away from frame?

I know it sounds simple and has probably been tried but I just wanted to mention in case it has not been tried .

Good luck,

Gregg S.

[Paulporsche]

If you do an advanced search for threads started by me, you will find my "Help, can't open hood" thread. I was finally able to do it using a steel rule.

[Paulporsche]

If you do an advanced search for threads started by me, you will find my "Help, can't open hood" thread. I was finally able to do it using a steel rule.

[89911]

I replace my decklids between whale tail and non and this occasionally happens. Before your start drilling and gouging the area's, try what the other poster have suggested. Pop open the truck until it is part way open and then try to move the lid in the direction it is stuck. Sometimes helps to have some one pull on the lever why you are pushing pulling the lid. It usually always works.

[moneymanager]

Don't take any extreme steps before you have pushed, pulled, tugged, pushed in then raised, lifted at the bottom, pushed from both top corners, etc etc about 200 times. One of those times, the lid will almost always come loose. I'd clamp the release cable in "open" position while I did it; the fail safe which is supposed to kick in when you release the cable all the way after unscrewing the handle doesn't always work in my experience.