Metallurgy Question

Recently I replaced the tie rod ends in my Land Cruiser during the process of a front axle seal replacement project. I went in to the local auto parts store (open 'til 8:00 p.m. during planting season ) to inquire about getting the tie rod ends. While talking to the guy behind the counter I casually said that I had applied heat to the steering spindle arms to release the tie rod ends. He was horrified! Said something to the effect of "I hope I'm not around you when those things break on the road."

Now, granted, this isn't an area that normally sees much heat during normal driving. But I only used a propane torch to expand the arms just enough to pop out the ends. I'd already tried a gear puller, a BFH and pickle fork without success.

So my question is, do you think that I've permanently rearranged the molecules in the steering spindle inviting an eventual catastrophic failure?

Porsche content: we've often seen the application of heat recommended here for the removal of various stubborn parts on 911s so there might be some general interest in the answer to my question.

------------------
Rod Walter
'88 911 coupe

So all you did was to head up a solid part (no fasteners involved), and let it cool down again? With a propane torch?

Well, I'm no expert on metallurgy (except kryptonite of course) but I would not expect any problems.

------------------
'83 SC

shouldn't be a problem. the best way to pop out tierod ends is the bfh method. smack the end of the arm real hard, a few times maybe. it squeezes the hole that the taper pin is in and it usually pops out. watch the bodywork and the knuckles.

Hello

If working on Axle parts bending and heating has to be avoided.

Both will weaken the part and cause a failure some miles down the road.

Also the heat might be transfered into places where it can melt someting.

This is a similar NoNo like using oil or grease on oxigen or acythylen pressure bottles.

Your Toyota is made for African mechanics and african streets. So the thing is built toughh and the chances are very low.

But life is like a lootery some have a lucky draw and other catastrophical draws.

Grüsse

I would add this word of caution. Do not rapidly cool the part. When steels are hardend it is by heating to a specific temperature then quenching in some type of cooling medium (air, water, oil) depending upon the steel. This results in a very hard but brittle steel. After getting the things apart, my recomendation would be take a beer break and let everything cool slowly. If the part is still to hot to handle drink another one and so on until the part is cool enough to handle.

A propane torch won't get steel hot enough to weaken it any measureable amount-you'd have to step up to oxy/acetylene to do that-or a plasma torch. Now, if you held a propane torch with the valve fully open against a suspenion part for 15-20 minutes or so, and then proceeded to whack the cr_ap out of it with a huge freakin' hammer, you would probably suceed in bending it a bit.....but you didn't do that-did you?

------------------
Clay McGuill '66 912, '97 Jeep Cherokee www.geocities.com/the912guy

Thanks, gents, for the advice.

To my friends from the Pacific Northwest (Superman and John) thanks for the quick reassurance.

5axis, I didn't cool down the arms quickly - just let them slowly dissipate the heat and I was able to tap out the tie rod ends with a regular carpenter's hammer. I was ready for a beer break after wrestling with these things.

Roland, I would like to have avoided using heat but after trying to finesse the ends for an hour or more I resorted to brute force. You are right about the thing being built tough - the parts make my 911 parts look positively dainty by comparison.

Clay, the huge freakin' hammer came before I tried heat - a sixteen pound sledge in fact (but not swung through a very large arc so I didn't develop much force).

So I am now the subject in an ongoing experiment. It could make for interesting driving the day an arm breaks but from the size of the arm and the small amount of heat used I think that this is very unlikely having heard your thoughts.

By the way, if it makes any of you feel better about the price for Porsche parts the kit to rebuild both sides of the front axle was well over $200 and mostly consisted of a set of gaskets.

------------------
Rod Walter
'88 911 coupe

[This message has been edited by Rod Walter (edited 05-28-2001).]