Sonofa%!&@%!

Wavey · 05-07-2008, 02:39 PM

You know how the simplest things bite you some times? I was just cleaning my windshield, bumped the mirror and the freakin arm broke!

How the #@$& do I get the remaining part of the base off of the windshield? Checked Bentley's - nothing. Did a search - nothing. I'd really like to leave the glued-on disk in place and just get the black base off.

Looks like it's a snap-off thing, and I can get a pair of Channellocks on it. But do I rock it up-and-down, or sideways, or rotate it off, or? Car is an '88 Carrera.

hcoles · 05-07-2008, 03:38 PM

subscribed... I have an 89 so I'm curious.
someone will know and send in shortly

john walker's workshop · 05-07-2008, 03:41 PM

gently tap from underneath until the stub comes off the pad.

Wavey · 05-07-2008, 03:54 PM

Thanks John! So it slides or snaps off, parallell to the windshield, correct? Owe you one - maybe I can take care of Arthur Obrien for you.

john walker's workshop · 05-07-2008, 04:14 PM

it sort of slides off but you have to tap it, parallel to the glass. i use a 3/8 extension with a bit of weight to it. light taps.

rgrimm · rgrimm's Garage

The base has a vertical "slot" that the mirror slides (tightly) into. So the trick is "parallel" to the glass. It goes in and out from the top.

If you're nervous, you'll need a new mirror anyway so wait until you get it...one look at the mirror and it will make perfect sense. I actually tightened the slot in the base a couple weeks back. Wish I had taken a pic...one look and you'd go "yeh, I get it"

Wavey · 05-07-2008, 06:15 PM

Thanks guys! Got it off very easily once I knew which direction to tap. I'm trying some structural epoxy that we use in the shop - just glued the joint and letting it heat-cure overnight, then some additional reinforcement around the joint tomorrow. Not much chance it will hold, but worth a try til I can get a new one.

dfink · 05-07-2008, 07:25 PM

After you have it epoxied then drill and tap with a flat head screw counter sunk into the base.

3.2 CAB · 05-07-2008, 11:03 PM

Is that mirror arm some type of pot metal, or aluminum? Have you ever tried that low heat Aluma-weld product? I have 5lbs of rods, of the second generation Aluma-Weld. I still have not used it yet to see if it works.

Wavey · 05-08-2008, 04:33 AM

dfink - great idea! I'll take a look at that.

3.2 CAB - it's definitely pot metal, very porous.

The point at which it broke is very small, about the size of a pencil eraser. It looks like a designed-in break off point, which I don't get since the base at the windshield is designed to break away.

Wavey · 06:43 AM

The drill/tap/screw idea isn't workable - there's an additional tab to go through to get to the joint (sticking out in the photo). I guess you could do a larger hole through the tab for the screw head to pass through, but there wouldn't be much material left.

Well, the first round, gluing just at the break, seemed to hold very well, so I just added another layer to completely fill the gap around the joint. It's curing right now, will shape and paint later today. Heading out of town for an overnight trip, so I'll report back late tomorrow. A new mirror is only $72, so no big deal if it doesn't hold.

PS: JB Weld would have worked just as well, maybe better.

john walker's workshop · 05-08-2008, 06:48 AM

dreamer.

Wavey · 05-08-2008, 07:08 AM

HA! True enough. But I wouldn't have this car if I wasn't a dreamer

Wavey · 05-09-2008, 09:02 AM

Hey John, ready to eat some crow?

It worked beautifully. Installed it late yesterday, made an overnight trip of about 300 miles, and so far so good. I can hang on it until it feels like the windshield is going to crack. And I'm as surprised as you are.