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Question on replacing the oil pressure sender

Sitting behind the engine for a while, twice, but still doubt that I can do it without droping my engine. I have tried sticking a serries of tools in line, in order below, and managed the crawfoot underneath the AC compressor then come back to the sender but problem is I don't have 24mm crawfoot wrench. Mine biggest size in the crawfoot wrench set is 19mm.

1) Crawfoot wrench
2) then a 2" extension,
3) next, a swivel joint
4) 7" long extension
5) finally hook to a ratchet

This way I can manage the crawfoot wrench to go underneath the AC compressor and turn back into underneath the sendor.
Does anyone be able to replace the oil pressure sender without droping your engine?
Thanks.
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:10 PM
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Yes. DO NOT USE THAT SET-UP YOU HAVE, YOU CAN BREAK THINGS EASILY!
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84' Steelslantnose Cab.
1953 Dodge B-4-B-108" 90,127 miles
1953 Dodge B-4-C-116" 58,146 miles
1954 Dodge C-1-B8-108" 241V8 POLY
1973 Roadrunner 440-SIX-PACK*
1986 F-250 Super Cab-460 V8 tow
Newest additions-
Matching numbers 1973 340 Road Runner!!
1948 Dodge B-1-F-152" 1-1/2 ton Dump body, 39,690 miles
others...
Old 05-11-2008, 08:15 PM
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3.2 cab,
You just made me feel so sad. Droping the whole engine, which I never done and don't know how, for that little tiny thing
Thanks
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:19 PM
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Remove what you need to to access the sending unit mounting block, if you attempt to remove it the way you are thinking about, the next post will be asking how to repair the sheared off oil line through bolt in the engine. That is not a simple task. Some have been very lucky removing the sender with a crow-foot type wrench, but I do not think it has a very high success rate, opposed to the failure rate. Once you remove the oil feed lines and the sender mounting block with the sender, then you can have the mounting block in a vice, and them be able to remove the sender. If it has never been replaced, I imagine it will be a very tight joint to break free. Good luck, but don't try it without removing what you need to. Tony.
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84' Steelslantnose Cab.
1953 Dodge B-4-B-108" 90,127 miles
1953 Dodge B-4-C-116" 58,146 miles
1954 Dodge C-1-B8-108" 241V8 POLY
1973 Roadrunner 440-SIX-PACK*
1986 F-250 Super Cab-460 V8 tow
Newest additions-
Matching numbers 1973 340 Road Runner!!
1948 Dodge B-1-F-152" 1-1/2 ton Dump body, 39,690 miles
others...
Old 05-11-2008, 08:22 PM
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NO YOU DO NOT NEED TO DROP IT AT ALL. Cheer up, it is not that hard to do this. Tony.
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84' Steelslantnose Cab.
1953 Dodge B-4-B-108" 90,127 miles
1953 Dodge B-4-C-116" 58,146 miles
1954 Dodge C-1-B8-108" 241V8 POLY
1973 Roadrunner 440-SIX-PACK*
1986 F-250 Super Cab-460 V8 tow
Newest additions-
Matching numbers 1973 340 Road Runner!!
1948 Dodge B-1-F-152" 1-1/2 ton Dump body, 39,690 miles
others...
Old 05-11-2008, 08:23 PM
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umm... I didn't know 3.2 Cab has multiple personalities. Just j/k
Thanks.
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:39 PM
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84' Steelslantnose Cab.
1953 Dodge B-4-B-108" 90,127 miles
1953 Dodge B-4-C-116" 58,146 miles
1954 Dodge C-1-B8-108" 241V8 POLY
1973 Roadrunner 440-SIX-PACK*
1986 F-250 Super Cab-460 V8 tow
Newest additions-
Matching numbers 1973 340 Road Runner!!
1948 Dodge B-1-F-152" 1-1/2 ton Dump body, 39,690 miles
others...
Old 05-11-2008, 09:35 PM
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rnln:

Don't use the crowfoot wrench to remove your sending unit. I did on my 87 about 5 years ago. It WAS dicey. It took a lot of pressure to break the sending unit loose and when it did finally come off it let go with a snap, bang!

Mercifully, it all worked out, but I would never do it again.

Good luck.

Mike
Old 05-11-2008, 09:48 PM
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Hi Mike,
I have never seen underneath there so I am wondering what could be damage by doing that (using the crowfoot)? Can you give me some thought?
Do you think spraying some BP blast or "liquid wrench" helps?
Thanks.
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Last edited by rnln; 05-11-2008 at 10:15 PM..
Old 05-11-2008, 10:04 PM
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Old 05-11-2008, 11:10 PM
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The item that seems to break most often is the oil line through bolt that enters the oil sender mounting block and or the other item that enters into the block. See the previous post regarding this. Do you have a Bentley Manual so you can see what is there?

I am editing this because of the parts list shown. The bolt I am referring to is part# 911 107 709 01
the block is 911 107 704 00
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84' Steelslantnose Cab.
1953 Dodge B-4-B-108" 90,127 miles
1953 Dodge B-4-C-116" 58,146 miles
1954 Dodge C-1-B8-108" 241V8 POLY
1973 Roadrunner 440-SIX-PACK*
1986 F-250 Super Cab-460 V8 tow
Newest additions-
Matching numbers 1973 340 Road Runner!!
1948 Dodge B-1-F-152" 1-1/2 ton Dump body, 39,690 miles
others...

Last edited by 3.2 CAB; 05-11-2008 at 11:22 PM..
Old 05-11-2008, 11:13 PM
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3.2 cab,
Reading your above on "how to" again, I think I understand better now. I didn't understand the idear of "taking the block and the sender (still in placed with the block) off the car first". I got it now.

Can't sleep, I came out and look in there one more time and found that I can have enough room to get a wrench in there to undo the "oil line through bolt" #48, and #31 #32 without removing anything prior, maybe AC belt. Another 3 questions I have:
1- if it's ok to push the metal oil lines (on the right) further to the right (a little) without damaging them?
2- is the oil-line-through-bolt the only thing holding the block (and sensor) to the engine case?
3- do I need to drain engine oil before doing this? What I am asking is if I take these apart without draining oil, will there be oil come out from there?

I am thinking of undoing those #48, #31, and #32. Then pushing everything to the right to take the combo (sensor and block) off the car. What do you think?

BTW, I do have some leak (just wet) at the oil-line-through-bolt and slip to the metal lines on the right. Need to stop this leak anyway.
Thanks.
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Old 05-12-2008, 12:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rnln View Post
Sitting behind the engine for a while, twice, but still doubt that I can do it without droping my engine. I have tried sticking a serries of tools in line, in order below, and managed the crawfoot underneath the AC compressor then come back to the sender but problem is I don't have 24mm crawfoot wrench. Mine biggest size in the crawfoot wrench set is 19mm.

1) Crawfoot wrench
2) then a 2" extension,
3) next, a swivel joint
4) 7" long extension
5) finally hook to a ratchet

This way I can manage the crawfoot wrench to go underneath the AC compressor and turn back into underneath the sendor.
Does anyone be able to replace the oil pressure sender without droping your engine?
Thanks.
YES I did.

I may be wrong but, you should not have to remove the engine to replace the OPSU. But you may have to remove the muffler, A/C compressor, vertical and horizontal A/C compressor brackets to get a straight shot at it. Earlier this spring, I had to repair a number of small oil leaks, so I replaced the complete right side chain cam oil lube line including all new fasteners and the OPSU and its brass mounting block. I bought a 24 mm crows foot from Snap-On's online store. It fit perfectly under the OPSU. It took quite a lot of effort to pop free from the mounting block. I used the following tools.

PB Blaster
12" 3/8th's inch extension
12" craftsman 3/8th's inch ratchet wrench
24mm Snap On crows foot.

The OPSU is very tightly connected to the brass mounting block. I had the advantage of having removed my complete AC system last year, including the vertical and horizontal compressor mounting brackets. Their removal made the job much easier, since I had a straight shot at the OPSU. The torque required to remove the OPSU from the mounting block required enough effort to twist the 3/8 inch extension about 2 inches along its arc before it popped loose. At which point, the crows foot, 3/8 inch extension and 3/8 inch ratchet wrench flew apart. But it worked, and I have no leaks. My humble advise is don;t give up. Be patient. And most important - think it through. And if you need to remove the AC brackets and compressor, might as well pull the whole thing out --- forever.
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Old 05-12-2008, 02:36 PM
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Thanks sig_a,
Hope you still remember how they are hold up together. Did you take the mounting block off the car too or just the sensor? I wonder how the block are hold on to the engine case? Is it holding on by the oil line through bolt?
Do you have to drain oil to replace it?
Thanks.
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Last edited by rnln; 05-12-2008 at 04:51 PM..
Old 05-12-2008, 03:00 PM
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Do not use a crows-foot wrench and try and do this in place! Doing so is taking a big risk of stripping or distorting the threads in the aluminum engine case (even more foolish with a magnesium case) that the hollow bolt (item 48) engages. Just because someone was lucky and got away with doing it with a crows-foot doesn't mean it is a wise practice. Some of these supposedly successful "crows-foot wrench jobs" may manifest an unpleasant surprise in the future when backing the hollow bolt out from the case results in stripping out the distorted aluminum or magnesium female case threads. I have seen 24 inch "cheater bars" required to break the sender free from the aluminum block (item 46) with the aluminum block mounted in a bench vise. Remove what you have to (A/C, etc.) to access the oil line and the hollow bolt; loosen the oil lines and back out the hollow bolt (item 48), remove the aluminum block to a bench vise and R/R the sender there where one can safely and efficiently apply loosening torque.
Old 05-12-2008, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rnln View Post
Thanks sig_a,
Hope you still remember how they are hold up together. Did you take the mounting block off the car too or just the sensor? I wonder how the block are hold on to the engine case? Is it holding on by the oil line through bolt?
Do you have to drain oil to replace it?
Thanks.
I believe I first broke free the OPSU from the mounting block (in situ), which exposed the fastener (fig. 32) of the leaking oil line at fig. 48. I then removed 32 from 48, and removed the oil line from the car by removing the fitting at the outboard side of the engine. Lastly, I removed the mounting block from the engine case. You do not have to drain the oil.

That;s the way I did it. Others here may have a safer/smarter way. And doing it my way is a bit hairy, but I am not afraid of my car. By the way, replacing the complete circuit with new OPSU and block gives a much truer reading at the Druck gauge, which now reads 1 bar higher than the replaced OPSU. Reattaching the new line is also a bit tricky in that you have to thread together each fastener a small bit at a time. In other words, you don't want to fully tighten one and then the next. Take up the slack a few threads at a time at each joint until all the threads are snug and seated. Also the ferrule (31) needs to be mounted correctly to prevent future leaks. Also there is an oil passageway in part 48 which I believe must align exactly opposite the pin hole (oil pickup point) at the base of the OPSU. As you can imagine installing was more difficult then removal. Good luck, and by all means read everything you can for a clear plan.
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Old 05-12-2008, 07:06 PM
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Jim, sig_a,
Thank you all. I feel lucky I asked. If not, I might be crying right now already. Thanks much for all the detail hint. I am crossing my fingers.
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Old 05-12-2008, 08:46 PM
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"but I am not afraid of my car"

I'm not afraid of my car nor of working on devices or machines with a thousand times greater value. Developing an understanding of a device, it's materials of construction and features and then researching and developing appropriate procedures is not fear but a prudent approach to mechanical troubleshooting and repair.

Get an estimate of the cost of the r/r of an engine case (and removing and reinstalling everything attached to it), plus the case's repair or replacement. The wisdom of not using a crows foot wrench in situ for this job will become very apparent.

The hollow bolt (item 48) doesn't have to be aligned (rotated into a given orientation) for the oil pressure to be read correctly; the block (item 46) contains a chamber that permits communication of oil pressure whatever the orientation of the hollow bolt. There is no significant flow in this short branch (it is a dead end) to the OPSU so pressure drop is not an issue.

Last edited by Jim Sims; 05-13-2008 at 05:22 AM..
Old 05-13-2008, 05:14 AM
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JimSims says: "The hollow bolt (item 48) doesn't have to be aligned (rotated into a given orientation) for the oil pressure to be read correctly."

While the engine is operating, the enclosed OPSU mounting block oil chamber will be pressure tight and equalized. So, JS is technically correct. However, the direct opposite interface between the oil port on fig. 48 and the base of the OPSU is the logical way to mount. A small thing, and why not.
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Old 05-13-2008, 05:58 AM
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I think my BS meter just went off the scale
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84' Steelslantnose Cab.
1953 Dodge B-4-B-108" 90,127 miles
1953 Dodge B-4-C-116" 58,146 miles
1954 Dodge C-1-B8-108" 241V8 POLY
1973 Roadrunner 440-SIX-PACK*
1986 F-250 Super Cab-460 V8 tow
Newest additions-
Matching numbers 1973 340 Road Runner!!
1948 Dodge B-1-F-152" 1-1/2 ton Dump body, 39,690 miles
others...
Old 05-13-2008, 09:30 AM
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