Holy sh!t it started!!!!!!!!!
 

:D


unbelievable!!!

cranked it several times around by hand to be sure there would be no hydro-lock issues then used the key (plug wires out) to build up oil pressure.

next i put the plug wires back in and let the fuel pump run a bit.

cranked and...................IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!! My baby is back!!!

God how i missed the rumble of that 2.4 when i start it in the garage.

BUT there is a problem. damned carbs are leaking quite a bit. it SEEMS to be coming from near the caps that cover the needle valves. also have leaking at the outer gasket of the accelerator pump. EDIT: FIRST LEAKS COME FROM GASKET AREA JUST UNDER FUEL INLETS

would float levels cause this? LOTS of fuel leaking out when she runs, can't even go for a spin around the block or let it run enough to set timing.

i'm off to search Pelican and see what i turn up but if anyone has been through this i'd appreciate your input. i am absolutely dying to go burn up some $4 fuel!

tighten or re o-ring the caps and remove and resurface the pump covers. the caps can be a biotch to remove, but maybe since they're leaking, that means they might be easier. use a 16mm socket that has been ground flat at the outer edge so you get the best contact on the short head of the cap. if it was fuel pressure related or leaking float valves, you would get drooling down into the engine.

thanks john;

i have add'l info (sitting in the garage as i type this)

after letting things dry out (evaporate i suppose) i tightened various bolts and fired up the fuel pump again. pressure per pump gauge is 3.3lbs and leaking begins under the fuel inlets closest to the front of the car (on both carbs).

as it happens these are the first float bowls the fuel gets to on each carb. i wonder what this is telling me?

also, i removed one of the float bowl plugs and put an aerosol cap under it to catch the fuel. an AWFUL lot of fuel came out. much more than my PMO float gauge could possible hold.

i removed the cap on one of my needle valves and that little area was FULL to the brim with fuel.

sooooo....it doesn't appear to be the needle valve caps. i will try resurfacing the accelerator pump covers. the gaskets don't really seem to fit that well either (a bit crumpled at the top- red vinyl like material; very thin).

more thoughts?

The Master has spoken : "you would get drooling down into the engine"


he heh heh, I love it.

the area under the cap would be full of fuel normally, being that the pump is filling it with fuel, and the bowl is full and the float valve won't let anymore in.. if the cap leaks it's not tight enough or the sealing ring is damaged, being that the fuel is under some pressure. and pump covers warp at the corners, so everything is normal. you might need a fresh diaphram if it's torn or separating. be careful not to fold it anywhere when you reinstall the pump cover. fix the issues and you're off.

john any comment on the fact that my leaking appears to start where the top/bottom carb bodies join directly under the fuel inlets?

bolts are as tight as i dare make them and gaskets were spanking new. perhaps additional sealant is warranted?

i still suspect something is fishy with the floats as the float level gauge filled all the way to the brim and only quit because i shut off the fuel pump. it's almost like the needle valves (brand new) aren't doing their job.

i assumed you meant the caps leaked. if the carb was so full that it seeped from the top gasket, i would think it would also be drooling down the throats. they drool if the float valves are bad. did you inspect the floats recently? they can implode from someone blowing the passages out with air pressure.

floats were fine when installed and i didn't use compressed air after putting them back together.

next will be to replace the new needle valves with the old ones that were in the carbs before the rebuild.

i get the feeling the carbs are just getting way too much fuel and with pressure being good it seems it must be float/needle related.